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Timber tracks 4 line pass through Engine shed

Discussion in 'Line Side Buildings' started by Toto, Aug 9, 2018.

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  1. Feb 7, 2022 #41
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Started gathering today.

    Odds and ends for the electrical works ...... 5mm Self adhesive copper tape and 3D printed light fitting designs. ( courtesy and copyright of our Mr Sollis ).

    Looking I to code 125 nickle silver bullhead rail ...... probably from Hattons.

    I already have 28 age silicone insulated wire for the wiring of the lights and looking at copper tubing possibly to use for the light fittings. Not sure yet if this will act as one of the two conductors or not yet. To be decided.

    More to come.

    Toto
     
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  2. Feb 9, 2022 #42
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Copper tape, washers and bullhead rail gave all arrived.

    The lights are an ongoing project whilst the best power solution is being investigated and designed.

    Technically speaking the build could commence as it is done more or less in stages / modules.

    The first is the floor with pits and rails etc being constructed first. It would also need to be spray-painted prior to adding the wall sections. Again, it looks like one wall at a time ( several layers of MDF ) and possibly pre painted as you go in order to get the best decor finish.

    I think I am safe in saying the floor could commence as the only thing I need to consider is any electrics that would need to be added for the inspection pit lighting. I'll give it a bit more thought though prior to jumping in. The floor is again of a multilayer sandwich construction and electrical supplies via 5mm self adhesive copper tape could be run between the layers to reach the inspection pits. I'd just have to ensure that the method of final connection was robust enough.

    I dont know if I will have any other electronic gadgetry to consider at ground level maybe an arc welding simulator or two. I am assuming that and ground signals etc would have always been to the outside of the lanes.

    One other consideration .... may be ....... occupancy detectors. I'm not sure if I want to go to that extent or not yet.

    We'll see.

    Toto
     
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  3. Feb 9, 2022 #43
    gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    Toto......have you considered how you will access the interior when needed...eg. track cleaning or derailments.
    It seems to me that having the roof removable on this kit is probably the way to go and if that`s the case, how will that effect you lighting arrangements etc...?
    :tophat:Gormo
     
  4. Feb 9, 2022 #44
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hi Gormo,

    The roof is a removable module. The lighting will be built into the roof structure via timber boards laid into the trusses. The method of connection is being worked on at the moment.

    :thumbs:

    Toto
     
  5. Feb 9, 2022 #45
    gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    Ah very good.
    There will be a way to connect easily........there always is.......it just needs to be thought through........:thumbs:
    :tophat:Gormo
     
  6. Feb 9, 2022 #46
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    It's all about reliability Gormo. We've had so many issues before at exhibitions with things giving up. Something simple and reliable.

    Toto
     
  7. Feb 9, 2022 #47
    gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    Yes Toto,
    That is the key element....reliability.
    I would be inclined to have your lighting in the roof come down to two fine wires that track their way back to a corner of the roof where they can then feed down through a straw ( suitably coloured ), which is mounted vertically in the corner of the building below where the wiring in the roof comes to.
    Below the straw base is a hole the same diameter as the straw which allows the straw to pass through the baseboard and also act as a liner for the hole.
    The two wires should have enough length to pass down through the straw and under the baseboard. The ends of the wires should be stripped and tinned. One wire should be longer than the other to keep the tinned ends separated and isolated.
    Have two wires come from your power bus for lighting / accessories with each having a crocodile clip fitted to their ends.
    The crocodile clips connect to the tinned ends of your lighting wires.
    To remove the roof, simply release the lighting wires from the crocodile clips under the baseboard, and then the lighting wire should slide back up through the straw as the roof is removed.
    Having the straw pass through the baseboard as a hole liner ensures that the wires will not get caught when passing through.
    This setup also allows you to take the roof off and power it up separately to test or repair electrical probs.
    Hope this makes sense and it`s just a suggestion. I have used this method myself and it works flawlessly.
    :tophat:Gormo
     
  8. Feb 10, 2022 #48
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Makes perfect sense to me Gormo.

    I like the flawless bit. :avatar:
     
  9. Feb 10, 2022 #49
    gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    Well yeah.
    The back corner of GCJ behind the station where Murray`s Railway Hotel is located, is a long triangular piece of board with the town sat on top of it.
    It has a two wire bus under it with two large screw terminals . Two jumper wires from the main GCJ lighting bus reach this section and they have crocodile clips at their ends.
    The underside of the triangular lift out section
    DSC09285.JPG

    If I wish to take the whole town out for work or access to the area, all I have to do is un-clip the two crocodile clips and we`re away.
    The town module can then be taken away, and even powered on the bench, if I want to problem solve or test new lighting after fitting
    It`s just simple and it works........so it`s the same sort of idea for your engine shed.
    The straw method, I`ve used to feed wires through about 6 inches of polystyrene board ( scenery ). Tried pushing them through without the straw insert and it was hopeless. Then tried the straw and the wires just slide through.....again is just simple and it works.
    Anyway enough banging on about straws and crocodiles.........good luck with the build.
    :tophat:Gormo
     
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