I have joined two tables to create a space approx 180cm x 210cm for the layout. Can you suggest what to lay over the two tables so the track goes on and the scenery can be glued on, etc.thank you
Hi Track42 The tables may make a great set of legs but just putting a top on them unless they are fully framed and very solid will result in potential warping. The best place to start, will to be to make a basic sub frame then place a top on that of ply the sub frame is to brace the top to stop flexing and warping, you can also then make the layout in sections that are a manageable size for moving maintanance The last bit is most important if on a table top as you will need to move off the table to connect wireing add point Motors etc. I have included a photo of the underside of a board showing the ladder style bracing. This is only one option there are about as many layout frame ideas as layouts Take a look at a few of the layout topics usually near the start and you will see some under construction pics of how others have done there's Attached files
Link to a page in my Moonan Flats thread with photos of the construction of boards theatre style but the base underside is a basic rectangle 1200x450mm each and I used top quality marine ply as a top that is very strong and stable so was able to get away with only one cross brace. http://p1mrc.com/p1mrc/view_post.php?post_id=4619 Another's option, you can use a light frame and use Knuf Foam board from Bunnings, as a base for the layout. Open frame is also an option for table top build a ladder style frame and use risers to support your track base then fill around with foam to form your land forms, great for country side themes as you can go below track level with the Land form. So many options Can you give us some detail on what sort of effect your trying for with your Railway
Hi As Chris has said for traditional baseboards using a frame and top, then my recommendation would be to use plywood for both the frame and the top. This is less susceptible to changes in heat and humidity. MDF and Chipboard can be used for tops, but require more bracing and sealing to prevnt sagging and water absorption. However, one alternative I have seen on youtube is to use 2"/50mm foam insulation board - with ply glued to the sides for protection. It can be glued together using gorilla glue, and sculpted (very messy but very effective) into what ever profile you want. May be better to provide some cross support for larger sheets. I've not tried this method yet (the next layout looks like a prime candidate tho') so can only pass on the suggestion. You can get up to 2440 x 1220 sheets (8x4 in real money). Paul
Hi Track42, For my o gauge shunting layout LSD ( build link below) I used foam boards from Bunnings with a 9mm ply surround and some 19x24mm pine battery's to add support under the boards. First time I've tried it and so far so good. Does make a very light weight board so moving them is easy. http://www.click Kim
For baseboards I have used 42 x 18mm dressed pine (available from Bunnings) and a variety of top boards from 3 ply (light weight), 3mm MDF or 6mm MDF. I have my baseboards cut at Bunnings then bring home all the pieces and glue/screw them together. Jay Dubyew Nth Yard was construted from the 42 x 18mm pine and 6mm MDF sheet. For my Industry Lane layout, I built the baseboards with weight in mind, that is light weight ! The boards were made from 18 x 11mm dressed pine and 3mm ply top and bottom. The whole lot was like a sandwich with the electricals inside. Once you have constructed your boards, it is important to seal them, either with househould paint (emulsion) or a matt sealer, ie varnish. Cheers, Gary.
In the UK, I'd say 9mm ply, but it would depend on local weather conditions in Oz and where the layout is sited, ie, indoors or an outbuilding. What is marketed in the UK as "Far Eastern" ply is presumably obtainable in Oz and should withstand warping without too much bracing being needed, but I wouldn't use 'OSB' (Oriented Strand Board), 'Sterling Board' or shuttering ply (the cheap stuff!) as it's much more likely to warp. Is your layout going to be fixed or portable, as this could mean weight being an issue if portability is needed? If you intend going DCC control, don't forget that you'll need to be able to fix Bus wires under the layout, so you'll need to be able to access this easily. Keith.
Just to add to Keith's input on bus wires.., When should say drawing up your baseboard, make sure you have your track plan handy so you don't do what most modellers do... and that is fix a baseboard brace where an under track point motor (Peco, Tortoise, Cobalt etc) is to be sited. If you haven't decided on a track plan, take a look at Anyrail track planning software. You can design your track layout, then print it out 1:1. All my small layouts have been designed using the free 50 piece trial download. https://www.anyrail.com/en Cheers, Gary.
