Yellow submarine

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by redpiperbob, Nov 29, 2020.

  1. redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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    Is there anybody interested in thhe updateing of Hornby's new Yellow Submarine train to sound and carraige lighting?
    I will wait in anticipation
    Be seeing you
    Bob
     
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  2. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Don't let me hold you back, it's always interesting to see how it's done and to see if I can apply the skills sideways - I have some Dapol coach kits to build (build is kinda overstating the process there is around 10 parts in the kit and 4 of them are wheel sets), and could with fitting passengers and lights during the build process.

    Paul.
     
  3. AJS is a Red

    AJS is a Red Full Member

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    Hi Bob,

    I’d like to see this conversation.

    Andrew
     
  4. redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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    Ok so I will start with fitting the carriage lights.

    First we need to remove the body from the chassis.

    These Hornby coaches do not have any screws to hold them together you just need to separate the body by forcing a few old debit cards down the sides to release the body from the window part of the chassis.


    Then we need to separate one of the bogies from the chassis. There are two types of bogie on these coaches one is fully inset to the coach the other sticks out from the coach chassis. I recommend removing the one that is fully enclosed by the chassis.



    Press the two prongs of the centre pivot on the bogie at the same time pulling the bogie from underneath the chassis.



    Then remove the coupling link and remember which way is up.



    Remove the wheel sets from the bogie.


    Then we need to saw a small slot into the bogie to allow the pickup to be able to fit into positon correctly.


    Then solder the wires on to the copper strips.


    Then fill the small recesses in the bogie with epoxy and slide in the pickups into the correct place. The pickups should be about 1 to 2 MM from the inside edge of the bogie frame. Allow the epoxy to fully dry.



    Drill a small hole 1.5MM through the bogie right down the centre of the pivot pin.

    Then thread the two wires up through the bottom of the bogie thus pulling the wires all the way through the centre pivot pin.
    Refit the wheel sets. And test there is not too much pressure on the wheels from the pickups. You can now refit the bogie to the chassis by threading the wires through the hole on the chassis and pressing the centre pivot back into the hole until it clicks into place.
    Part Two tomorrow
    If there is anything you would like explained in more detail then please let me know I will do my best to clear thngs up.
    Be seeing you
    Bob
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2020
  5. redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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    Sorry for the delay (Life getting in the way of fun)

    Next we come to the rectifier. This is not needed if you are using DC to power your track.

    It is needed if you are using DCC.

    LED’s need an DC current to flow to be on so the DCC track voltage needs to be rectified into DC current this little chip does exactly that.

    In the picture below the “ ~ ” marks next to the pins are the input side of the chip these are connected to the track through the pickups that we fitted. It does not matter which wire goes to which ” ~ ” pin.
    You can see I have mounted the chip on to a small perfoated board for ease of soldering.



    So we solder the wires from the pickups to the correct pins "~"


    We then solder wires to the LED strip. One side of the contacts on the strip are are marked with a “+” or an arrow this is the positive side of the LED’s and as such needs to be connected to the pin marked “+” on the rectifier and the other side of the LED strip is connected to the “-“ pin.

    Then the LED strip is stuck to the inside of the roof of the coach I usualy clean the inside of the coach with Isopropyl alcohol to ensure the double sided tape takes a good hold.
    and there we have it coach lights that work.
    In the next part we fit the decoder to the Dummy (rear) power car and the direction lights.
    Once more if there is anything you would like explained in more detail then please let me know I will do my best to clear thngs up.
    be seeing you
    Bob
     
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  6. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    I'm hoping as the train is on the track it plays Yellow Submarine... Then again, Revolver would be great to listen to whilst running trains ! ;);)

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  7. redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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    OK all

    Firstly a huge apology. I am sorry that the next episode of this conversion has been a long time coming but to my mind there is a very good reason for this delay. The two photos should explain. But in case they don’t I have started a new 00 gauge layout and I wanted to have trains running for Christmas. So everything else was put on the back burner. As you can see the first phase of laying the first boards for the layout is now complete. I have just laid down some foam as noise reduction (not glued yet) and laid a double track to have a play.

    I hope you will forgive me for the delay.
    I will try to get the next episode of the light conversion uploaded tomorrow.
    And then I will start a new layout thread to detail my build progress of the layout (it has no name yet)

    Be seeing you
    Bob
     
  8. redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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    Here's a quick video of my cChristmas present to myself.


    Be seeing you
    Bob
     
  9. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Nice one on both projects.

    Actually DC users will benefit from using the bridge rectifier as well, as the lights will work in either direction.

    I like the track radius guides..... mmmmm I can see a late letter to santa, or I pull my finger out and design and print a 3D version, maybe on the 26th when Level 4 lockdown starts for 3 weeks.

    Paul
     
  10. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    3 weeks ....... :giggle::giggle::giggle::giggle::giggle::giggle::giggle::giggle:.... dont rush ....... plenty time ..... 3 weeks .... ahhhh best laugh I've had in ages.
     
  11. redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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    Hi Paul
    I made those guides years ago.I saw them on an american video they were from Proses but you could not get them in this country at the time. They are brilliant at curves and straight track. If you want the STL's then PM me and I will send them to you.
    Be seeing you
    Bob
     
  12. steve

    steve Full Member

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    Hi Bob.

    These look very good. I have seen similar on a youtube video for the Chadwick Model Railway. I think they must be commercially available.



    Regards
    Steve
     
  13. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    G`day Bob,
    Did you buy the pick ups or did you make them.??
    :tophat:Gormo
     
  14. redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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    Hi steve yes you can buy them but whats the fun in that. At the time I made them you could not buy them in UK
    I can send the STL files to anyone who has a 3D printer to make them.
    Be seeing You
    Bob
     
  15. redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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    Hi Gormo
    I made them myself.
    I was thinking of writing an article about the jig I made to make my life easier on the fitting of the pickups
    be seeing you
    Bob
     
  16. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    G`day Bob,
    Your reply came through twice..?????.....so I`ve deleted one of them.
    Your pickups look very professional. I was talking to my Son yesterday about coach lighting and the issues with pickups, and then you came along with your elegant solution.
    So I may pinch that idea from you.....:thumbs:
    All the best
    :tophat:Gormo
     
  17. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    I'd be interested in the pickups as well, and wouldn't mind the STL for the jigs.

    Thanks

    Paul
     
  18. redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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    Hi Gormo
    You are welcome to use the pickup idea. I am working on a more elgent solution right now. I will be ready in a couple of days (if all goes well) and I will post here.
    Paul I dont know how to attach the files to a PM so if you PM me your email address I will send you the files.
    Be seeing you
    Bob
     
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  19. redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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    OK here we go with the head and tail lights.
    We now have to fit pickups to the bogie on the dummy power car. This bogie is removed the same as the coach one was but the pickups are glued to the underside of the bogie. See the picture below.

    These details are for the Express Models lighting system I don’t know if the colours of the wires are the same for other manufacturers.

    The light units are fitted into the holes in the dummy car reflectors and glued in with a little super glue (don’t get any glue on the front of the LEDS)

    The headlight at the top of the car is glued in place behind the reflector and is the covered in blue tack to stop light seepage.

    I then used a hot glue gun to stick the wiring loom to the roof and the side of the car.

    The wires are threaded though the centre hole in the bogie just as the coach was. The bogie can then be refitted to the dummy power car.

    The decoder is then prepared for the wires to be soldered to.

    I have uploaded a picture of how a decoder is connected to the outside world.


    Dont forget this is the dummy car so it faces backwards on the track
    so the
    Black wire of the decoder (pin 4) goes to the Left rail pickup

    Red wire from the decoder (pin 8) goes to the right rail pickup.

    White wire from the decoder (pin 6) goes to the Headlight (white) wire from the light harness

    Yellow wire from the decoder (pin 2) goes to the Headlight (yellow) wire from the light harness.

    Blue wire from the decoder (pin 7) goes to the blue wire from the light harness.
    Don’t forget this is the positive wire on the decoder as all decoders have a common positive return to all the pins.


    Once you have soldered all the joints you can glue the decoder to a sensible position (I glue mine into the roof.)

    I also test my installation before gluing and refitting the body to the chassis.

    Next the power car and the Sound chip and speaker.


    Be seeing you
    Bob
     
  20. redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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    Now the power car

    The body comes off the same as all the carriages and the dummy car then you are left with plenty of space to fit the sound chip and the speakers. First I fitted the front lights and the headlight as the dummy car.

    I then bared the blue, white and the yellow wires of the wiring loom of the sound chip to splice in the same coloured wires from the lighting unit. I then covered the joints with heat shrink tube.

    I was using a ESU sound chip with two sugar cube speakers here is a picture of the chip and one speaker fitted.

    These speakers need to have the sound box that comes with the kit glued together. I superglue these parts together then completely seal the unit by coating it with PVA glue then set aside to dry.

    The chip I mounted in the middle of the base of the chassis then the speakers went one on each side if the chip. and the lighting unit was glued into the roof as the dmmy car.

    The chip comes ready sealed in a plastic sleeve so there is no way of shorting any of the wires.

    Then tidy up the wires and test the power car on the rolling road or your track.

    Then refit the body. And all is done.

    In the pics below you will see I have both the cars on the rolling road I have made the rolling road so that I can put the cars on facing the same way so that I can watch the lights at the same time.


    OK so that is the conversion done
    If there is anything you would like me to go into in more detail then please let me know.
    One thing I forgot to mention is that both the sound decoder and the dummy car decoder need to have the same DCC address.


    Be seeing you
    Bob
     
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2020
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