The two brass are Mansfield 38s. And as soon as my pay comes through this week, I'll have my two Austrains C30s on the way as well.
Tony I can supply you with the Gap masters I have boxes of them, I got them in as one of my DCC customer wanted so purchase in bulk for him and got extras I’ve use them a lot since, all the joins on Moonan Flats use these. Can bring to Rosehill exhibition have ten pack of them for HO / N / HOn3 / On30 and 2 pack for O scale
So despite letting Austrains know the money is ready, I still haven't been charged for my C30s. But on a better note! Look! Something! Wait, try this one.... I've built the first two frames and secured the foamboard base in them yesterday. I mucked the first boardup with sizing so it isn't a snug fit, but the second board is just about spot on in comparison. Total length is 2.48metres, 2.4m was as per the design, the additional coming from the wood ends. *scrap wood and bolt for reference purposes* I have here just what I'm thinking of next. Some supports for the board and for wiring, as well as how to connect the two together for use. Maybe something like that bolt with a wingnut, would be solid then. I haven't given much consideration yet to legs to support them however, this will come a little later but the frame is more than solid enough to support them being added. It's not often I get enough space in the shed to work on anything, not for a few days at a time anyway. But I'm happy at this sort of pace, works well with everything else I can fit in. And gives me enough time to consider what each step will be, and still get it wrong.
Great to see things moving along. As far as getting things wrong goes ........ you are in good company. Its all a learning curve. Crack on. cheers toto
It seems that electrofrogs are the way to go for dcc? might just run with them. So for this section I need 4x SL-92s, 2x SL-91s, 1x SL-99, & 2x SL-97s. About $250 or so. Might try and grab them this week. I've already got several improvements for the next sections over this one. Install the support beams first, sit foam over them then glue. Same with the legs, sort those out first. Not sure how I'll make them yet.
Hi Aaron I see your thinking of peco short points for some of your plan you may want to reconsider now your going to be running Brass locos and go with Medium radius points as a minimum, esp the Y point, the running through medium radius will be more reliable and will also look better, brass locos tight curves often = potential shots as the leading bogies end up touching on parts they shouldn’t. It’s worth down loading the templates and seeing if you can make it work https://www.peco-uk.com/imageselector/Files/Track-templates/SL-95,96.pdf
I would agree with Chris on the points chosen. The mediums are a good compromise and do actually look better for an Aussie layout. To save you a few bucks (plenty actually), purchase the points from Hattons, you will save many $$.... I would also recommend the bullet type alignment dowels for lining up the baseboards. Relying on bolts alone just won't do. How do I know this...?? Because I... Station Road Baseboards in the UK offer these as well as the toggles for connecting the boards together. I highly recommend their products. https://www.stationroadbaseboards.co.uk/ Cheers, Gary.
I've made some changes to better include the medium-sized turnouts. Your thoughts? Updated Central design Not all parts of this design may be used. I might not want to include the outer tracks for example. But this looks nice. Depending on connection to the second section however. The station/platform at the end (left) may be reduced in size to increase track length. It is there at present to represent the end of the layout, and the terminus role of Central. Sorry about the stressed track you can see, I haven't got it in perfect alignment at this stage. EDIT: And another draft design of the scenery section. Situated just north of the Hawkesbury River. Gray area's representing water, triangles representing the hilly/mountainous terrain. scenery2_2400400 This could be a representation of this sort of area, the location being along Mullet Creek near Wondabyne. https://www.google.com.au/maps/@-33.5146267,151.2368426,1232m/data=!3m1!1e3 https://www.google.com.au/maps/@-33.4957259,151.2476929,721m/data=!3m1!1e3
I would recommend removing the very top track and pushing the platforms back to the back scene. For a back scene you could line up your rolling stock (coaches) and photograph them. Print this out to scale and glue in behind the very top platform. It will look like a train is awaiting departure ! Check these pics out. They are courtesy of NSWrail.net : https://www.nswrail.net/ This pic below is of Central to the left and Redfern platforms middle right. Cheers, Gary.
Aaron you are going to need a cross over in the lead to be able to get trains in and out from both sections/ sides of the platforms and I’d also see if you and can fit in a short siding for the station shunter to be positioned when not in use.
The siding for the shunter is what I'm looking at right now actually. There used to be a siding that stopped at the end of the platform for the shunter, visible in photos circa1910 and c1921. I'm just trying to find if they were still there in the 40s/50s. Or had already been removed by that point as they are not visible in later images. Reference: A Century of Central. Pgs 41, 47. Chris, a crossover at the right or a double slip?
Pulled the models out so I can look at them on the layout, as all this digital stuff is doing my head in. C38 is approx 280mm long (28cm) (both Lima & brass variations) (Green Ruler) Eureka 5-car HUB set is approx 1200mm long (120cm) (Red Lengths) So, I'm looking at a platform length of about 1750mm long to accommodate them. Give or take. Image upload to visualise this shortly. Black line represents approx 1750mm Edit: centralTrainLength So depending, the platform will be 1750mm to 1800mm long from what I'm viewing. Leaving 30mm at the end for the locomotive and clearance to the points. Plus then enough clearance to enter the runabout in the centre. Shunter can then push carriages towards the end of the platform when clear. In the images I've seen from the 20s etc, there is the shunter siding as noted in the bottom section. To increase platform length, I've reversed it on the top. Which I reckon would still be rather nice. Considering the entire length is 2.4m, and the platform alone is 1.8. Will have to consider another addition to allow length for the rest of the track prior to the station. Progress. Certainly a lot more fun having the models on the base and visually seeing the size. I may have seriously underestimated this project however. 3 sections, 6x1.2m planks? looks like it might have to get bigger.
Don't forget that you need to run the baggage car/guards van/power van to the opposite end of the train as well... An alternative to your track plan is a minories set up, which your plan is quite similiar and it allows all platform roads to return to the correct down line.You will only have to add the run arounds. Why not have a bridge at the far right hand end and a separate fiddle yard/sector plate ?? Cheers, Gary.
For the right end, I'm considering a period pedestrian bridge, because I like them a lot. A LOT. And then it will run onto some sort of connector base before the next section. Still wondering about sticking the fiddle yard at the rear of the next section (scenery) because it can partially fit under it. I haven't started working on the Newcastle station design yet, so as soon as I get some of it done. Can work it out better. Thanks for the minories reminder again Gary, that will definitely reduce the complexity here.
central3_2400400 That allows the crossover to be installed. Again, I haven't got it lined up perfectly yet. Can't work with track that small. And I need to check the clearance distances.
I thought I loaded the latest pictures here, but I haven't (and have subsequently misplaced them...) At the moment I have 6 frames with bases installed, ready to rock and roll. the next step I would like to work on is building the legs for each frame and figuring out the best way to attach them together for running. Gary has already supplied me with ideas on how to do this, with a recommendation for https://www.stationroadbaseboards.co.uk I'm also still fiddling with the track design, until I get the board ready and can see it sitting there, I don't suspect I'll be happy with it. But will definitely post more pictures at that stage and get some onsite assistance from the professionals. In the meantime I am doing well, busy with work but loving the Stories of Steam: 38s dvds I recently purchased. So new photos up soon!
Hi Veers Good to see your making progress in the build process Your doing the right thing placing the models in position on the boards this will help gauge your platform track lengths compared to the actual models that you plan on running. Sorry I didn’t see your question re the cross overs. What I was referring too, was a sequence of points before your station platforms that allows access in or out for trains to all platforms from your two running lines, it doesn’t have to be complicated, I have marked up the plan Gary added with the 4 points marked, For your 3 platform, this is all you need so it still looks like a double track main line but you have full access Newcastle station had a very similar set up for in and out access for all platforms Hope this all makes sense.
It kinda does, I'm still iffy on how I'll put this all together though. But plenty of time to worry about it later, I'll be working on some stable legs and connection methods next.
Since other plans I had for today fell over, and with a very empty shed. I've got the frames out and am working on some mockup leg ideas. Please excuse my shoddy images in Paint. Just trying to be quick to describe ideas right now. This is based off another table I have here, the legs fold up under the tabletop, one side being slightly narrower so they side side-by-side underneath. Pretty much this idea is a direct copy off the existing table I have in the shed, just upsized by another 250mm in length. Correct hinges and supports to be included, as well as bracing and some sort of protection/leveling feet. So this current idea puts the height of the base at just over 1000mm high, and will likely continue to vary when I actually refine the measurements. But it isn't a large concern as I'm more wanting to focus on stability, a self-sustained design, and any height concerns will be addressed with a small standing bench (for little viewers). Thoughts?