Lima???!!! well, why not?

Discussion in 'All other RTR' started by Keith M, Apr 15, 2016.

  1. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    I recently got tempted (perhaps not quite the right description?) by a Lima Class 73 Electro-Diesel 73101 "Brighton Evening Argus" loco. OK, so maybe not one of my better ideas, but after all, when Hornby bought out Lima, all they did with most of the Lima range including the Class 73 was to 'tidivate' them up a bit, substitute the "Hornby" brand for "Lima", and continue to sell them, in fact there are presently one or two of this version of the model new on Ebay even now. I didn't fancy forking out £100 for a new one, especially as I'm more interested in what I can do to improve on the existing, so I bought a "Low mileage, one owner" one from "Rails" in Sheffield. First thing I noticed was the cream colour on the side panels bore little resemblance to the cream colour of Hornby Pullman coaches, so that meant out with the masking tape and airbrush, white primer then Humbrol Pullman cream, a much better match for the coaches, as you'd expect since Hornby own Humbrol anyway. I then carefully cut away all the moulded on 'handrails', drilling the body to accept new wire ones, which I'll fit later as I reassemble the body bits,- not yet decided if I want to fit flush glazing, and some touching up of the brown body colour will be needed as the new handrails won't quite cover up the yellow of the body moulding showing in places. I have a Hornby 'green diesel' version of this loco already, to which I've added high intensity front and rear lights using LED's and optic fibre, so I intend doing the same to 73101 (I also have 3 Lima Class 33's which have had the LED/optic fibre treatment to the existing lights), and this loco will also be remotored as have my other Lima loco's, maybe also incorporating cab lighting. Don't know what other members think, but personally, I get a lot of enjoyment from 'updating' some of the older models.....sad aren't I? Anyway, photo's and further posts will follow as I make progress with this model, good, bad or indifferent!
    Keith.
     
  2. 60019Bittern

    60019Bittern Full Member

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    Now't wrong in updating some oldies Keith. Let's face it, crude though some may be they still run. Most important of all of course is that in most cases they are cheap as people get rid of the old to replace it with the new. Will the new that replaced them still be running when they are in their 50's or 60's, like most Triang do.
     
  3. SRman

    SRman Full Member

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    The Lima 73 was one of their better models, although I can't really say the same for the 33. Hornby introduced completely new motors and mechanisms but retained the same body mouldings as the Lima originals, thus allowing one to buy a Hornby model and swap a cherished Lima body onto that.

    I haven't even bothered with the separate handrails as the moulded on ones are nowhere near as obvious as the ones on the cab faces of Lima/Hornby Railroad class 30/31s. A small amount of thinned black flooded into the grilles makes them almost indistinguishable from separately fitted etched ones, which says a lot for the finesse of the Lima mouldings.

    I did intend replacing my eight operational Lima/Hornby hybrid class 73s with the new Dapol versions, but after the disappointment of their livery errors and electrical problems (faulty design), I'm not buying any more of those, and keeping an eye out for more bargain priced Hornby versions.
     
  4. ianvolvo46

    ianvolvo46 Staff Member Moderator

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    I enjoy seeing older (senior) models brought up to date it gives a lot of satisfaction ... carry on good sir.

    Ian
     
  5. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    I used the first of my Lima class 33's as a test piece for my budding airbrush skills, especially as I'm no artist! I bought and studied George Dents excellent books on detailing and modifying loco's which helped me a lot in the initial stages, otherwise what eventually ended up as a quite acceptable first attempt could well have finshed up looking like it had been painted with a yard brush! The Lima motor in my class 73 seems quite good, certainly better than the ones in the 33's,- they seemed not to move until quite a bit of throttle was applied, then take off like a dragster. Nontheless, I shall still be remotoring it as I have the 33's, and together with a DCC decoder, should, if the 33's are anything to go by, be able to accelerate away much more like the real thing.
    Keith.
     
  6. SRman

    SRman Full Member

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    A good decoder will almost certainly tame them a bit. The Lima 33s had higher gearing than the 73s, but had one advantage (at least for the earlier models) in having plated wheels rather than the dreaded tarnishing brass ones.
     
  7. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Donkeys years ago I was given a Lima class 33, it was looking very sorry for itself and wouldn,t run, so I stripped it and cleaned the motor to within an inch of its life and got it to run well, next I removed the moulded hand rails, replacing them with wire, made brake vacuum pipes and fitted screw couplings and repainted it in BR green, I was really chuffed with the finished job, I later passed it on to my father in law who still has it, and it still runs as good as ever, the only thing I have had to do to it is re-solder one wire to the trailing bogie pick ups.

    Pete.
     
  8. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    I have an old Lima Class 20 - I think the start of the half decent Lima models, and it has a set of ultrascale P4 wheel sets, and now a TCS T1 decoder, it always has and still does run really smoothly.

    Paul
     
  9. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Having received the replacement motor from Finland, I set about sorting it all out. With the body already having been removed for repainting the Lima 'cream'(?) it was time to separate the driving bogie from the chassis, easily done by removing the 2 screws under the bogie itself, easing away the bottom plate, and lifting the bogie assembly upwards and clear of the chassis, having first unclipped the pickup connection from the trailing bogie. Removal of the 2 screws securing the motor endplate to the casing allows the brushes, springs and commutator itself to be removed, leaving the 'magnet' (made from similar material to that used on 'fridge' door seals, a kind of magnetised rubber!) inside the chrome ring still within the motor casing. I actually used this 'Magnet' as a spacer, since it's easily cut with a sharp knife, or filed. The idea is to increase the internal diameter of the 'Magnet' until the replacement motor is a tight fit inside it. This needs to be done evenly all round to ensure the new motor fits centrally in the 'Magnet' and chrome ring so that the gear cog aligns perfectly with the original bogie drive gears. Picture shows everything ready to start the job.

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  10. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Having got rid of the unwanted 'gubbins', and slimmed down the 'Magnet' until the motor fitted inside it, this is what it looks like with new motor in place.

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  11. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    After making sure that motor and gears meshed correctly and turned freely, the bogie was then re-united with the chassis, ready for a bit of wiring in the decoder and front/rear lighting, plus cab lights. Here's the chassis back together again and decoder (fixed with 'Blu-tack') in place and wiring begun.

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  12. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    As I'd previously added front and rear lights to my Hornby Class 73, I decided to do likewise with this Lima one, so removing the 'cab interior' moulding was the first step. I've used 2mm 'Lighthouse' dual red/warm white LED's for this, since having flat sides makes them easy to glue under the front of these mouldings. I had already drilled out the 'headlamp' mouldings on the body, through the body fixing clips at both ends of the loco, gluing 4mm lengths of optic fibre in the holes in the body, so gluing the LED's in position so that each one shone directly into the end of the optic fibre just meant accurate lining up, and covering each LED completely except for the end to eliminate any stray light within the model. 'Blu-tack' came in handy for this job too, as you can see.

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  13. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Here's a view of the front end of the body, 2mm optic fibre fitted into the front lamp.

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  14. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Before fitting the 'cab interior' mouldings back into place, I tested again to ensure all was electrically ok. I led the 3 LED wires up the rear of the 'cab' moulding, again secured with 'Blu-tack', bending them over at right angles, (which cleared the motor housing at the front end) leaving them at a perfect position to solder on the connections from the decoder.

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  15. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    With the mouldings in place and leads connected, testing followed, then directional cab lighting was added before heat shrink sleeving was applied and the body (now repainted in the appropriate cream colour) and chassis re-united. Here's a pic of the repainted body before I added wire handrails.

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  16. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    And now after handrails were added. As a consequence of repainting the body sides, the Tampa printed nameplates, which weren't great anyway, were sanded and painted over, new etched plates from Fox Transfers being fitted, which look much better and are at least, three dimensional!

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  17. SMR CHRIS

    SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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    Nice little conversion Keith and realy easy by the look of it.:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:
    I found the motors on EBay but the one you get from wont supply to Australia
    I found a local Australian seller also on eBay but he was out of stock, so have to wait.
     
  18. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    After some experimenting with altering CV's in the decoder, especially in terms of limiting top speed (remembering the new motor is optimally only 5.9 volts), starting voltage and acceleration/deceleration, (CV's 2 to 5), it's now a considerably more controllable locomotive that I'm happy to have on my layout. Finally, here's a pic of it on the track with a few 'Pullmans' attached. Just needs weathering now!
    Keith.

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  19. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Nicely done Keith.

    Toto
     
  20. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Excellent "how to" mate, and the finished model looks great! well done.

    Cheers, Pete.
     

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