Paul's Nellie

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by paul_l, Jan 14, 2018.

  1. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Kim - I'm going to try :whatever:

    Got the bunker rear formed and fitted - will post pics later, then tried to fit the beading - too short :facepalm:

    So in front of the telly and sulked, noticed what erm trash was on and came back into the cave then remembered I had some phosphour bronze pickup strip about the right size - game on, now where did I put it ...........

    So this morning found the strip and now warming up the iron to start, I will post up pics later

    Paul
     
  2. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Yeah ....... Get a move on. :avatar: and stop the sulking...... Child.
     
  3. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    This is truly a good thread Paul. :thumbs::thumbs:

    Now I'll have toto re-read the thread before attempting my kit and note where you think the order of putting pieces in, should be. :thumbs:

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  4. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    No worries for me ...... I'll breeze it. Well apart from that boiler wrap on the end .........Robbbbbbb where are you. :avatar:
     
  5. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    He means the smoke box - but we'll get him there eventually, I showed Toto the boiler placed in position and the bits needed to form the smoke box - to say the bad language filter got upset would be an understatement :avatar:

    So the piccies

    The rear bunker before fettling

    [​IMG]
    And fitting the beads - Slaters Phosphour Bronze pick up strips (ref 1220) 1/16 thou.
    Curved and then tinned
    [​IMG]
    Soldered in place and trimmed oversize
    [​IMG]
    Same repeated on the other side, and then a strip cut to fit between them.
    [​IMG]
    And then the fettling begins, using a modelling knife, glass fiber brush and files
    [​IMG]
    Getting shiney
    [​IMG]
    Almost there
    [​IMG]

    Paul
     
  6. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Looking good ...... alright ........ I'm on my way ........ tax return ...... I'm gone.........
     
  7. Ron

    Ron Full Member

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    Looking good Paul and you seem to be enjoying the process! :tophat:
     
  8. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Cheers Ron

    I am enjoying it, and although the clean up takes a while - it should get quicker as I improve :whatever:, I'm finding it quite relaxing (most of the time :avatar:).

    Time to make the soup for lunch, then its the coal rails next

    Paul
     
  9. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Wow ! I haven't heard you once curse about burnt fingers ! Looking good Paul. :thumbs:

    How difficult is it to fettle the curved brass sheet (rear bunker wall) into the bunker side frames ??

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  10. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Gary

    More daunting than difficult :whatever:

    I used a piece of 12mm bar and bent it slowly with a mix of fingers and thumb, and trapping the piece of brass between the cutting mat (stops it slipping) and the bar and applying pressure.
    A pair of smooth faced pliers are handy to apply localised pressure (I found the centre needed this), if you don't have smooth faced pliers wrap tissue around the pliers jaws, the pressure your applying isn't heavy so should protect the surface.

    Any discrepancies can be filled with solder then filed to suit

    Paul
     
  11. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Cracking build Paul, you are firing on all cylinders!!
    Too late now, but for anyone else contemplating building one of these or similar, if you heat the bunker back panel in the area until it turns a bluey/purpulish colour, then dunk it into cold water, it will soften the metal and make it easier to roll. I use an old mouse mat and piece of dowel as a rolling pin.

    Cheer's, Pete.
     
  12. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    jakesdad13 wrote:
    Hi Pete, (all),

    It's even better if you allow it to cool naturally. When annealing brass/nickel/copper there is no need to quench it.


    Looking good Paul, I had completely forgotten that I didn't get the cab internals with mine (bought second hand from a stall at a Guild show) and at the time I didn't know that I could have got the bits from Jim so I scratch built the bits that you have that are castings - Bunker front/floor.

    I used a spare Slaters Backhead that I had in stock (I still have a couple more bought from some closed shop stock a long time ago).
     
  13. Chubber

    Chubber Full Member

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    I'm enjoying this, Paul. In days of yore when I made brass and copper cigarette boxes at sea to pass the time, I found a 1/4" square file, snapped off, ground smooth on all 4 sides at the end which I ground at about 60 degrees, made a splendid solder scraper for 90 degree joints. Seems the proportions are about the same?

    Hope this suggestion is worth considering,

    Doug
     
  14. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Chubber wrote:
    Hi Doug,

    I for one use exactly the same I have 3 or 4 old needle files that I have snapped off and done the same with. I do find that I use the square file the most when cleaning up brass kit's.

    In the past I have ground them using the Dremel with a diamond cutting disk but someone on here pointed out that Lidl had a mini grinder on special offer in November or early December so I bought one (or rather Chris bought me it for Christmas) and it makes sharpening up the old files for use as scrapers so much easier. - I can take some photos if it will help anyone envisage what we are talking about?
     
  15. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Cheers Guy's

    For some reason my files have all gone a bit nervous - which one is heading for the chop and a severe hair cut.

    Coal rails have been added, still needs a bit more cleaning up
    [​IMG]

    But started on the roof

    Jim's instructions recommend adding additional strips to the under side of the roof if using the woodern roof.

    Using the 12mm bar and a piece of corrugated cardboard formed the curved roof.

    [​IMG]

    Then cut some of the spare brass from the frame to create the strips, again these were curved by placing the brass on the cardboard and rolling the bar backwards and forwards

    The soldered into place. I tinned both parts, then with the aid of the peg clamp sweated them together

    [​IMG]

    Then two strips cut to fill the gaps, and all filed smooth.

    Further scraps were bent and soldered in to place to hold the roof in place.

    [​IMG]
    Intially two were fitted to get the front to back setting, then an additional four for the corners.
    The roof stays on if you invert the loco, but you can't lift the loco by the roof - it will come off, probably best that way.

    As can be seen from the left hand spectacle, ive a little trimming to do

    [​IMG]

    The boiler next :eek:

    Paul
     
  16. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Really great job Paul.
    cheers
    Toto
     
  17. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Looking really good Paul, a great boost to the confidence.:thumbs:
     
  18. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    And from a new starter hehe:thumbs: loco is looking good. Nice one Paul ... what a great thread.:thumbs:
    York Paul
     
  19. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Thanks guy's - although the photo's are really useful for showing how much cleaning up is required.

    One tip - as I have been primarily using Templers telux flux - a bit like fluxite, it cleans off really easy with cheap nail varnish remover (basically acetone). It's also good for removing traces on the selotape used to stick the etchings to the packaging.

    Ah well back to the boiler - deep breath and weeeeeeeeee :avatar:

    Paul
     
  20. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Well that wasn't as bad as I thought it would be - fingers very warm but not burnt :avatar:

    [​IMG]

    Ah, now I see the repercussions of going off piste - luckily I got away with it. Itis now that the tank inners should be installed, and if the gap is too tight for the boiler to fit in the tank top can be reduced in size to increase the gap. As I said luckily M=y boiler fits very snugly but does fit, as that would have been a right b*****d to fix

    and just to prove it fits

    [​IMG]

    I had tried it a few days ago before the boiler was fully formed to show Toto via skype that the smoke box needs to be completely formed by the builder :eek:

    Time for a coffee then some filing - the edge of the overlap on the boiler needs to be filed smooth.

    Paul
     

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