Tower Models White Metal kit Class 02 diesel in O Gauge

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by Toto, Aug 10, 2017.

  1. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    'Bout time :avatar:

    Paul
     
  2. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I was out in the shed and disassembled the cab desk from the footplate as I had no confidence in the 70 degree solder .... or the position it was sitting in.

    Decided to try the 100 degree solder which I had tried before but which was not taking to well to the white metal for some reason.

    I racked the temperature up to 310 degrees, in with the flux and then in and out with a dolop of 100 degree solder.


    not pretty but not seen either. instantly heard the sizzle and flooded the join and surrounding are with solder.

    then I turned to the outside edges of the cast which are inside the cab. Again flooded with flux but this time just a small blob of 100 degree solder.


    In quick, touched the cast and drew it quickly along the join .........


    Success ...... and no damage. ..... much stronger joint ...... and much happier chappy.

    I bolstered up the other joints on the bonnet, cab and exterior tool boxes using the same method and 100 degree solder. I am confident that they are now solid.

    I can now get back and progress the chassis again.

    cheers for now

    toto
     
  3. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Best place for 70 degree solder is in the bin Toto! There is a lot of crap in it and it has very little strength, plus if you wash the model in hot water, you can convert it back to a kit again........handy if you make a hash of it I suppose!:avatar:
    Keith.
     
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  4. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I tend to agree Keith. I dont think I'll be using it elsewhere going forward.

    Toto
     
  5. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I have to say that I completely disagree, I use 70 degree exclusively for white metal to white metal soldering. The secret to a soldering joints with 70 degree is making sure that both surfaces are really clean before they get soldered.

    I do use 100 degree solder, but I find it much more difficult to use for some reason and only use it for whitemetal to brass/nickel soldering.

    Which just goes to show it's really about what works for you in your environment and set up. Because when it comes to soldering, what works for one doesn't always work for another.
     
  6. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Interesting Robb.

    I was actually managing yo make joints but there was not a lit of strength in them. I think my problem is that I still need some experience under my belt and I'm not doing it often enough to maintain consistency. However, I am more in the zone these last few days so hopefully I can continue with it and get some norms set.

    Fingers crossed.

    Toto
     
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  7. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Possibly it was just the edge that being soldered and not the whole surface area.

    I've not done much whitemetal to whitemetal soldering - I have a Roxey P class sitting patiently in the que so that may change soon - but prefer the 100C solder, actually I tend to tin the brass with either 145C or std 60/40 solder, then tin with 100C, and also tin the whitemetal with 100C, and sweat them together.

    The build is comming together tho' and as you say we should hopefully see a working chassis soon.

    Paul
     
  8. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    One stage closer to a working chassis.

    Motor, gearbox, wheels and spacers fitted.


    spot the dirty big whitemetal spacers between the rear of the wheel and the side of the chassis.


    A clearer photo...

    and from the top .....


    and the last one for tonight .....


    I have soldered up the bronze strip pickup to the circuit board but need super glue to set it in position.

    I am half thinking about maybe using plunger pick ups which I have in stock but need to check they will be suitable as the chassis does look a bit narrower than usual. may be wrong. If they are any good then i'll strip it down again and make a couple of holes in the chassis to take the pick ups.

    more on that tomorrow.

    cheers

    toto
     
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  9. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Just ordered some superglue for most of the remaining small white metal castings to be added. should be here tomorrow.

    fingers crossed.

    toto
     
  10. ianvolvo46

    ianvolvo46 Staff Member Moderator

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    Your Amazon order is despatched sir ...
    welders-trolley-sc114-demo.jpg
     
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  11. ianvolvo46

    ianvolvo46 Staff Member Moderator

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    Seriously though thats great progress Toto :thumbup::thumbup:

    Ian vt
     
  12. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Getting there slowly..... as usual. The welding kit may not be a bad idea.:avatar:
     
  13. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I do hope that you have reamed the holes in the white metal castings out so that there is sufficient clearance for the axles to rotate freely.

    On the B16 it came with white metal axle boxes for the front bogie. Even though I reamed them 3/16, once fitted they acted like brakes until I bought an oversized reamer (5.7mm IIRC) to give the 3/16th axles enough clearance. My 3/16 reamer has worked fine on all the brass top hat bearings/axleboxes but the white metal is a bit more clingy so needs more clearance.
     
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  14. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    No worries Rob, they are not soldered in as yet. In fact, I did not think they needed soldered but if they do ..... it shall be done.

    I will reassess their fit with the axle but I'm sure they were free moving. I'll double check tonight. Thanks for the heads up.

    Another query whilst I'm on. What is your experience " supergluing white metal to white metal or plastic circuit board to brass chassis ?
     
  15. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I have done the latter without issue but I have never glued anything whitemetal preferring to solder it, even the small bits.
     
  16. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Fair enough Rob,

    Some of the white metal casts are tiny and I was concerned I may fry them. I'll suck it and see.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  17. Torry

    Torry Full Member

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    Here’s A video by Andy Duncan of Duncan’s Models soldering with WM. Quite informative. Note: Not a scratch brush in sight.

     
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  18. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Thanks Torey,

    Great video and well explained. Thanks for posting up.

    Toto
     
  19. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I'm currently trying to find a way to use sprung pickups.

    The chassis is very narrow and the pickups wont reach the back of the tyre. I dont really fancy the bronze pickups as they are a bit flimsy and in my mind not reliable enough.

    I'm looking to see if there is any way I can create a little brass bracket to attach to the side of the chassis and behind the wheel from which to attach the sprung pickup to. We'll see, it may be the phosphor bronze strip if all else fails.

    Toto
     
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  20. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Why not build the chassis area out with Plasticard drilled to accept the pick up at the correct positioning? It may still be possible to get the nuts in clear to avoid shorting and the glued Plasticard in laminated layers will hold each pick up firmly.
     
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