Hi Andy The holes are if you are printing the floor in place and vacuum traps can form, you aren't so is irrelevant for this model I think your exposure is too short. Increase your base layer exposure by at least 10% maybe even 50%. How many base layers are you printing ? This is one of my fall back setups when things go a bit wrong Is your printer setup with a single raise lower speed or is split like the profile above. This profile is very slow My current profile I use for my number Mono X - number 2 If your bottom layer exposure is too great, you will have great difficulty removing the raft from the build plate. Notice on the lift and retract distances are opposite, start and finish of the lift should be slow enough and high enough to allow the model to peel without being jerked. Note on the base layer I am raising the plate by 16mm, whereas during the normal layers only 4.16mm - don't ask how I got that, I think it was a typo but worked. I'd be tempted to add the solebars and buffers to the main body, these are thicker and will give a bigger surface for the supports to be attached to. And can be filled and filed to hide the penertration marks, the bottom edge of the coach will be easier damaged with heavy supports. Also for the supports on the bottom, check your contact depth - for heavy supports I use 0.6mm, medium 0.4 and light 0.1 As it's a new resin you are using, try some of the exposure test to establish your cure time. And no harm doing my usual first step of levelling the build plate after any failed / dodgy print. Hope this helps Paul
And raft Now the Roof has printed fantastic.... But the chassis has failed and just left the supports so that's another strip after 3 prints. Hopefully the fep is OK as thats it now till pay day. Here was the supports I'll let you have a look and then I'll go away and think about what you suggest and try to implement it.
Here are some pictures of the bottom side of the coach. The seat bottoms have blistered…?? and no idea why the corners have covered over as you can see the edge on the good side where the chassis panel shouldn’t in it.
That's what I refer to as wrinkly bottom syndrome, it happens when flat surfaces are printed parallel to the build plate but is easily clean up with a chisel bladed craft knife or one of Rob's custom ground old files. If you want the bottom baby smooth it needs printing 45-45 with all the increased time and resin usage that entails.
Try printing the chassis at the same angle as the roof or print it direct on the print bed - no supports (maybe sensible to add a fillet or chamfer to the top edge of the chassis to allow you to get the spatular in to lever the chassis off the build plate). It is too big a surface to print and hope the supports will hold on to it. For the underside of the seats you either add lots of supports, or modify the underside from a flat surface to eithe a curved or angled surface. Cuts down the surface area the printer is trying to peel off. Also try cutting down the lift speed, slow up allows a more gradular peel, rather than a snatch which may cause a layer shift. Leave the bottom lift distance as is, but you can cut down the normal lift distance 8mm or 10mm should be OK. Z lift on the supports I find 8mm is enough, 10mm as you have means you have to print another 2mm before the model starts to print. My 8 ton van print looks like this The floor is printed direct on the build plate and sits on top of the sole bars inside the body and allows lots of supports Try printing the floor on the build plate using the same settings used for the Roof print. Should be a fairly fast print. Paul
The chassis fail was a small setback.. believe I miss understood one of the suggestions re its orientation. It’s now been redrawn. And ready to reprint. On the same print run was the roof and I’m pleased to say it worked very well and fits just as nicely. From one end. From the other. Close up of the roof vent. it’s only had its wash and not yet been cured so not had any clean up, however, having done this with some support suggestions from @Mossy there is not a single mark on the inside of the roof where the support scaffold was. Many thanks for that!
Only one fail on the remaining parts (vac cylinder, pipe and hoses, brake hangers etc) which was the central V hanger for the main bar to the cylinder and that transferred it out to the hangers. It’s actually the block where it slotted in to the chassis, so I’ll re-orientate that part and print with the brake rigging. Now last night I left the printer running on the chassis. This time it’s printed but thrown up the first issue of printing someone else’s artwork.. it’s simply too thin, which may be why it failed last time! I’ve gone side on to the bed plate so it hangs vertical. Where mark had added his panel for his name and details it’s simply too thin surface wise and is almost transparent. I have not been able to check this as all the systems will only give a dimension for external surfaces, ie the outside box, and being an STL file won’t let you test for thickness etc. I think my only option here is to pull in a new rectangle the same outer size and to a greater depth. see how we go. always knew it was going to be a learn by trial.
Here are the parts to finish the coach and also a number of parts for Paul B for his Leek station project. The remaining toilets and a wide doorway. The one part that failed. the end nearest the camera should be a square block. now the chassis. and from the other side As @Mossy finds, it may be usable for trial fittings etc so won’t go straight in the bin. I can sit and work out where we went wrong with the design. What I can’t fathom until it’s cleaned later is why the surface looks like a wicker fence? It’s not smooth at all? I think we will also give he vat a clean and strain the resin before the next print. more tomorrow.
Andy, How wide is the chassis, I make mine 2.5mm allowing for the suspension gear to be 2mm wide. Cos I have been bitten more than once, if there are footboards then add a 2mm square block behind when the supports are, this allows for a neat .9mm hole to be cut and it has enough support not to break out.
Sorry forgot it was an STL, you certainly chose a beast for your first coach, I could have drawn it in a few hours. If you could extract the running gear as a separate stl they would be prefect for the 4 and 6 wheeled milk wagons I drew for you. Alternately a dimensioned drawing would also work. Mossy
Leave that with me <wink> may have a plan re the running gear. The chassis was only 1mm thick hence why it failed and even thinner where the text was. I’ve now made it 2mm so should be better. And for my copy, eliminated the text. I could go more, and then recess.. infact, I’ve half redrawn the chassis just matching it up till it changes colour. What I may do it just do the whole thing and take it from there. I can then add some notches for the brake rigging. May just sit on this for a day or two and sort it out. also redone the coach body with increased support, so may press print on that tonight instead.
I decided rather than just bin the v1 chassis I printed the other night I would have a look at it. I have no idea what happened on the surface as it was like it was covered in goo of some kind. This did clean off in the IPA with an old toothbrush. Leaving behind a smooth surface as expected, albeit rather thin and transparent in places where Mark had rebated for a name panel for his copyright. in view of that, I opted to move on to V2 and redraw the whole panel from the start making up new little rectangle boxes to match the outline of the old STL file as best I could to .001 of a mm. So I’m confident I now have a better model. What this enabled me to do was add some strength by thickening the actual base section by adding another 1mm of thickness - this does then mean it throws out the alignment of a few other parts… except it didn’t, as with it now meaning a new model that could be edited, I could now cut and adjust as needed and was able to add small rebate sections for the brake hangers, brake rodding and the tank to slot them in to a set location each and every time. this was printed last night and is now drip drying in the printer (as I’m on a day shift) and will be lifted out and checked tonight.
I realise I had not put an update on re the latest prints. Brake hangers Vac cylinder Vacuum pipe, buffer and buffer shank chassis v2 chassis v2 I had 2 parts fail that I will need to reprint and still have the brake rigging to also set up for the machine.
Setting aside that the body needs to be redone, it sits in to show how it could look. although all dry fitted at the moment, it’s all staring to come together sitting on its suspension I now need to sit and have a look at how wheels and the brake rigging will all fit. I need to also get some wheels so may use some I have in at the moment as a test. See what side holes are required etc for the bearings and also the rods for the rigging. The chassis on its own and from the under side with some other detail dry fitted all coming together well. Next will be to try the buffers. Andy
Hi Andy I would have included the bufferbeams and solebars plus the other underframe crossbeams etc (not the floor) in with the body. This gives a good solid surface for the body to build up from. The floor is printed seperately and inserted from above. Well that's how I've done my vans - still to try a coach. Paul
Nominal size for turned brass axle bearings in 7mm scale is 2mm wide x 2.25mm insertable length... if that helps
Bearings depend on who makes them. I tend to print a 2.2mm dia hole, then ream / drill out to 2.4mm - works for most, but Dapol uses a 3mm dia tube. This is normally after washing but before curing, less chance of the W iron breaking also easier to do as well. The axle box covers the exposed bearing. Paul