NSR 4 wheel coach.

Discussion in '3D Modeling Projects' started by Andy_Sollis, Dec 16, 2023.

  1. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    It does indeed. just need to acquire some and a set of appropriate wheels.. probably from the Derbyshire area of Rowsley (formerly Matlock Bath) <wink>
     
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  2. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I can see what you mean, but that would mean having to remove the seats from within. (Although they could be sat on the floor?)

    anyway, as it’s happened, it’s now quite strong on the V2 and actually remained flat!

    all I need now is to redo the body and get a nice crisp edge to the bottom.
     
  3. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Then you need code 7125 which comes with four brass axle bushes... assuming of course the wheel diameter is 3' 7" or if NSR used the Midland Maunsell type then that code is 7124.
     
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  4. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Try adding a horizontal plate (say 3 to 5mm wide and a 1 to 2 mm thick) along the bottom edge of the sides, this will give a surface to add substantial supports to, allowing fine supports for the side which can be removed with out damage. Also a good gluing surface to attach the floor to.

    At the moment it looks like the bottom edge of the sides are not substantial enough to support the sides being built on them.

    Paul
     
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  5. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Erm.. you tell me? As yet, I’ve not found what wheels they should be on! :eek:
     
  6. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I’m just checking that now..
    just had to redraw another part as looks like some of them didn’t slice properly as were hollow inside.
    What’s odd is that I can look at the coach and that’s hollow all the way up, yet the top printed really well, so not totally convinced that is an issue when drawn in Sketchup. It may be that I’ve added a 123d block to it and then resaved it as an STL again, but again, I don’t see why that should cause an issue either?
    I’ll send you the sliced file over to have a look at (I can send the whole coach if you want and you can have an NSR interloper up north!)
     
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  7. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Not sure where I read it but, if its hollow, is there not an error where the model isn't fully closed.

    Maybe in Blender you could extrude the inner surface to the other surface.

    Send away - afterall during the shooting season there was coaches 1st & 3rd plus Horse boxes came up in thier droves from all over the place.

    Paul
     
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  8. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Oh, that's another function I have never learnt on Blender - horrible program !
     
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  9. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Well I’ve done a second print of the body which came out much better, but still has fails around the doors. Now sure why as it’s the same thickness all round the bottom. It’s not as noticeable and I may just get away with it…

    (and having now written this, I think the penny has dropped as to why and it’s nothing to do with a lack of support. - there is a very small instep under the door and I suspect the gap between the door and the bottom of the coach is very thin - too thin to print, so may need to look at an alternate inside infill.)
    IMG_6523.jpeg

    What I have found odd, and maybe Mossy or Paul or the other printers in here can see or say what is happening? This is the support material. Nicely and cleanly strips away in warm water leaving next to no marks..but what on earth has gone on? Why has it infilled between the supports and even the depression between the seats which should be open and no support material whatsoever?
    IMG_6536.jpeg

    IMG_6537.jpeg
    Something very odd is going on..

    Andy
     
  10. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Andy, can you print the body without the seats or with just the partition? I bet in comes out perfectly. that all looks like wrinkly bum syndrome to me, the alternate solution is to print the body angled, again that should fix the problem. Paul, any comments?
     
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  11. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Andy

    mmmm :scratchchin:

    Do you have an exposure % setting on the printer, if so what is it ?

    Looks like you are under exposed and the base of the seats is not sticking to the supports rather it's sticking to the FEP, then breaking free

    What height are your supports, I normally print at 8mm using 5mm as a minimum for small parts only.

    On the heavy supports it looks like the cone is too narrow.

    Below I have used auto supports with the same settings, only difference is the Z lift height Left hand model Z=8mm, Middle Z=5mm, Right Z=3mm

    upload_2024-2-2_9-56-59.png

    8mm detail

    upload_2024-2-2_9-58-14.png

    5mm

    upload_2024-2-2_9-59-24.png

    3mm

    upload_2024-2-2_10-0-44.png

    Note on the 3mm the base supports couldn'd even generate the base support cone or the parallel center section giving a narrow support cone.

    upload_2024-2-2_10-4-11.png upload_2024-2-2_10-4-44.png upload_2024-2-2_10-5-42.png

    Hope that helps

    Paul

    PS got the files, I will take a look over the weekend.
     
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  12. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Oop

    Just noticed the 5mm detail pic is the wrong one

    upload_2024-2-2_10-11-21.png

    Note hear the base cone was also unable to form - which explains some of my fails at 5 mm lift. 8mm will be my standard from now on.
     
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  13. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    I use 7mm for everything big or small, kiss logic!
     
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  14. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    7mm looks good

    upload_2024-2-2_12-27-4.png

    Base cone is fully formed
    Coloum has also formed, and the final cone starts at full diameter

    At a 0.05 layer height thats 20 layers saved.

    Paul
     
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  15. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I’ll take a look and alter my settings for future..

    I think my machine is set at 80% for the exposure - I’ve never had any issue with stuff not coming off the bed plate. The metal spatulas always scrapes it off fairly easily..
     
  16. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    And we’re in the paint shops! Well primer anyway
    IMG_6611.jpeg

    IMG_6612.jpeg

    Need to do the reverse of the axle boxes
     
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  17. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    I print the axle boxes (covers seperate), so I can drill / ream out the holes for the bearings and fit the covers over the front.

    For the brakes I print the hangers etc with a 0.6mm hole then fit brass wire.

    Paul
     
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  18. Vinylelpea

    Vinylelpea Full Member

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    Looks good too me, a few imperfections gives the model character and adds to the realism. :thumbup:
     
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  19. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Not without a big modification to slice them out. but it then presents the later issue of expansion and contraction and having to file or fill a gap when they don’t fit when printed separate.
    As it happens, there is a sizeable gap between the chassis and the body yet when printed, the body won’t go over the floor panel of the chassis.. need to file!
     
  20. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    at the moment, I’ve simply gone with what Mark drew up, or duplicated his work.
    I can’t see why the chassis timber doesn’t run the full length and has steps around the wheels? And they are not even parallel.
     

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