4 wheel Guards Van in O scale

Toto wrote:

More patience required not something I'm really good at is patience but I'm testing it at the moment

So more of the build tonight
All the etch sides are now on the card internal box the 3 sides that meet I soldered the corners and this has made the this bit quite strong.some photos



Next is the underframe "nylon" something I have never come across before in a railway kit and it is in two parts both warped
So I joined them in opposing warps and they ended up straight


More clamps and loctite super gel 454 to bond the two parts



Next I cut the end off the chassis ladder as I decided to build a van that was fitted with Knuckle Coupler's and this requires a different buffer beam



The new buffer beam is a casting that has a pocket for the knuckle and looks better than the Nylon also used the Loctite 454 super gel.
The beam will be similar to the one in the colour photo in a previous post with the Knuckle coupler and Cammel buffers.



The Nylon chassis has a etch brass overlay for the detail this also needed a few extra bits fitted so I soldered them in place.


First place a small amount of solder on esch peice (Tin) then place in the correct spot and apply heat again with a clean iron tip this then bonds the two pieces job done


Finally this overlay is glued in position on the nylon frame also using the 454 super gel I always use a sanding stick to key the surfaces to be bonded. Again more clamps.



There endeth tonights kit build bodging with the overlay clamped in place still lots more to be done

 

paul_l wrote:

I think Laser cut plywood. would have been a much better solution Paul
Not much sticks well to Nylon hence the loctite 454 in play.
Paul I will pass your idea for a laser wood chassis to the kit manufacture.
Considering the kit supplier also dose Laser cut timber structures a frame in timber would have been the go, and in keeping with the prototype Van as they were timber chassid.

How dose it compare to the other local offerings ? Interesting but I can say I won't be building any for others as the time to construct wouldn't make it worth while or I I'll re put that they probably wouldn't want to pay the real price to build as would be thinking it's only a 4wheel van just like the others

Generally I can have the run of the mill NSWGR model kits finished in 1-2 days modelling time, these are then stock piled and I paint several in one go

Compared to a Slaters, Parkside or Peco 7mm kit that would take a nights modelling to build, the HG is painfully slow.

As an example I got a Peco Toad brake van (as I only had one GWR brake van), on the Thursday before a train exhibition
I built the Peco 7mm GWR Toad brake van and had it rolling Thursday night with paint on Friday morning, went to set up the layout at the train show and by sat morning the paint was cured enough to apply the decals the morning of the exhibition
this HG contraption will be several more days me thinks and there will still be no paint on it even then.

So if someone thought I'll get that kit and have it running on the layout in a day or 2 well

 

ianvolvo46 wrote:

Thanks Ian

Ian this slow pace build ie patience required is part of why all the photos as you can't get on a roll and forget, as I have to keep stopping and waiting for the glue to set
Usualy I get on a roll with the plastic kits and it's suddenly all together Oops no photos or is that from the plastic glue fumes.

 

paul_l wrote:

I thought the same Paul the loctite seems to be holding I think it could well only be because of keying the surfaces that this stuff is bonding together
Time will tell if it all falls Apart luckily being at the end of a train moist of the time the loads on the nylon on should be only that of the van itself.

 

paul_l wrote:

Great Idea Paul

The reason no progress last night was have been pondering this issue of the nylon to brass

Some brass or posphor bronze wire pins through the nylon and soldered to the floor or put some small BA screws though the nylon frame and solder the nuts to the inside of the brass floor as well as using the Loctite gel to bond it.

I was planning to use screws for the Knuckle coupler's mounts anyway this will make the coupler's attach directly to the brass floor and transfer any longitudinal pull through the brass floor not the nylon chassis ladder or buffer beam as is traditional.

So 4 extra screws or pins will possibly be all that's needed to do the trick

http://www.click

 

paul_l wrote:

Another top idea Paul for the pannel pins
The heads will look like bolts in the chassis

 

Paul your full of great ideas. thanks

I think I will go with the idea of the pins though the Nylon and soldered to the floor on the inside I know I have some of those pins somewhere just have to find them now.

Then the pin heads will look like bolts or the like in the chassis

 

Ok so it's been a few days since any progress on the Gurads Van

Thought I better do a bit more so after some good ideas for the chassis frame to secure the nylon to the floor it was time to fit the pins, the domed head pins even in O scale looked a bit big so went looking for another soloution and ended up with some flat head pins that are a little less obtrusive

HG van build

More brass bracket work these needed the rivet's punching.

HG van build

Window panel is the same brass laminate as the sliding door Previously described and top vents fitted to the passanger compartment.
The Louver vents are 3D printed
HG van build

Currently I have the brass roof pannel wrapped around a tube with rubber bands to hold the curve for the roof

 

Sparky wrote:

Thanks Guys for the encouraging comments I need them with this build

Give me a Parkside, Peco , Slaters kit, anyday over this multi media material kit I can say no other 4 wheel wagon/van has ever taken me more than a few days to build, I'm not very patient really, some of the joy has gone out of it already, hopefully will be replaced when the paint goes on was expecting to do that this week but guessing not. As have now discovered the way the roof and surrounds for it in the kit, are not as per the prototype. that I have chosen
So will spend some time working out some way to make it better.
All I can say is my HG van body won't part company with its Chassis in a hurry (thanks to some P1 member suggestions) if it actually used other than a mantle piece model.

BTW just got a parcel in the post another little project or 3, flee-bay bargain buys (can't call them shines) that with some cleaning up, extra details and paint will make some nice models more to come on that in another topic I think. all I will say is the detail parts will cost more than I paid for the models and people say O scale is expensive I think not with these bargins