7 Foot x 2 Foot Plan Needed

Discussion in 'Planks, Switching and Shelf Layouts' started by Tim47, Apr 12, 2024.

  1. Tim47

    Tim47 Full Member

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    Hello to all , i am new to model rail and looking for some help
    I Have a board which is 7x2 feet , i also have the following track pieces available to work with
    All are new , PECO , The Track Pieces are , R600 X 2 R601 X 3 R603 X 4 R606 X 1 R628 X 3 R8072 X 4 R8073 X 2 And R8076 X 1 I Also have 12 lenghts of Flexi Track
    i am just not able to cope with any of the pc rail design programmes [ at my age } i get so far in them and make a complete mess of things

    So i wonder if anybody could draw up a plan based on the available track as listed above
    what i would like is a Terminus station A Timber yard And a loco Shed/Depot
    If that is possible
    i look forward to hearing from you

    Tim
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Tim, Is there a particular era you wish to model ?

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  3. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Here is a track plan using your track pieces... Don't pay any attention to the structure product numbers, they are there to give you an idea of where structures would be placed.


    Just remember that this could be built in the opposing direction. If you are running diesel, omit the Water/Coal/Ash etc and replace with a diesel fueling rig instead. ;)

    Cheers, Gary.

    edit* I noticed that I used 3 x R600 track pieces. Simply replace the R600 & R603 (in engine depot) with a piece of flex track.
     
  4. Tim47

    Tim47 Full Member

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    Hi Gary yes sorry i forgot to put it in the post British Rail Mid 70,s to Early 80,s
     
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  5. Tim47

    Tim47 Full Member

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    Fantastic Gary many thanks give me a few hours and i will get back to you on it it looks ideal
     
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  6. Tim47

    Tim47 Full Member

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    Hi again Gary , i would like to put the Terminus building at the end of the board { vertically as you look at the plan } that would mean doing away with the cattle dock
    which i am ok with , as it might leave room to put in another point down where the Water /coal.sand ash pit is located ? it would also do away with the goods shed then leaving two main lines ? am i making sense
     
  7. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Okay, take a look at this then... It has two lines running into a terminus station, goods yard, engine depot and timber yard...


    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  8. Tim47

    Tim47 Full Member

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    Gary you are a Genius that is spot on thank you , it is exactly what i am after , now another silly question from me , the layout will be DCC Controlled . i will chip the locos for sound , i will not put point motors in as i would like to switch the points manually , now the points i have are a thing called electrofrog Peco Streamline EL 395
    What is the situation with wiring the points Gary ? Again i have tried to read up on it but it is double dutch to me any help there would be great Gary
     
  9. Tim47

    Tim47 Full Member

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    Gary i think i messed up Sorry , i may have sent you the wrong track list , because i was looking at a Hornby plan on the net and i had wrote down the track numbers . so i am sorry i think i got mixed up
    Here is the correct list of the track i have available to me

    5 Yards Peco SL-100 Code 100 Streamline Track.

    3 x Peco SL-E95 Medium Right Hand Electrofrog points.

    1x Peco Sl-E90 Three Way Electrofrog point.

    Peco Sl-10 Code 100 Rail Joiners.

    Peco Sl-11 Code 100 Insulated Rail joiners.

    4 x Peco Sl40 Rail built buffer stops.

    if i need more to complete the layout i will buy them Gary
     
  10. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Tim.
    When you say you wish to switch the points manually, do you mean by 'wire-in-tube'? If so then you could incorporate a microswitch to change the point frog polarity which would save the expense of devices such as the 'Tam Valley Frog Juicer' or the Gaugemaster relay version.
    Keith.
     
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  11. Tim47

    Tim47 Full Member

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    Hi Keith no i wish to move them by hand , just reach in and switch , just my thing as i find it more enjoyable keith as i am only starting out in model rail and dont want to get bogged down as i am overwhelmed just building it
     
  12. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Tim.
    If you are just switching the points by hand and intend using DCC, then you will still need some form of polarity switching for the point frogs. Depending on the brand of DCC control you buy, you may get away with the Gaugemaster version which switches with a relay, but if, like myself, you end up using a Lenz setup, these are so sensitive that the Gaugemaster relay units don't switch quickly enough and the control unit will trip out. In that case you will need to go for the fully electronically switched Tam Valley units which change polarity so fast that the Lenz controller doesn't trip out. Alternatively, if you are confident with building electronic kits, if you join MERG (Model Electronics Railway Group) you can buy their kits to build polarity switching units, and even full DCC control and hand throttle units, which will save you money, only for sale to members though.
    Keith.
     
  13. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Tim, I'm with Keith here, I've used the Tam Valley frog juicers on my layout, they are a doddle to fit, just 3 wires, green to the frog, red and black to the power feed, I've picked mine up from the bus, works a treat.

    DSCI0386.JPG

    Cheers, Pete.
     
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  14. Tim47

    Tim47 Full Member

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    Hi Pete Hi Keith , ok a few questions regarding the dcc set up , the unit i will be using is Gaugemaster , all my locos will be DCC fitted , now regarding the layout if you can bear with me on this and i will try and explain what i am trying to build , as you know the board is 7 feet long by 2 feet wide, was up late last night a found a drawing that might work for me , using the track pieces i have available , Imagine you are standing in front of the board , i want to fit two lines going most if not all the lenght of the board
    they will be close to the edge of the board , on the two lines i will fit 4 x Peco SL 395 code 100 points One set joined together close to the end of the line. and the other set joined together close to the other end of the line , so this will in Theory give me two Main lines with 4 sets of points , so that i can turn a loco around or hook up another loco from one of the lines , { am i making sense ? } then on the top line close to one end of the board i wanted to add a right hand point that will lead into the board , and on that line i can add my 3 way point which will give me more lines
    sorry i forgot to mention the two mainlines will end in a terminus station
    now to Dcc this , i was under the impression that all the points i got needed no adjustment etc etc and would all be okay for dcc operation and that i could switch the points by hand, sorry for all he questions but i am a only starting out
    i have plastic point joiners and also metal joiners { fishplates }
     
  15. Tim47

    Tim47 Full Member

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    Here is the drawing i found https://freetrackplans.com/152-6x1-wagon-works.html
    if you look at the bottom diagram , and just look at the two lines at the bottom and forget the rest .
    on the two lines you can see the 4 sets of points , on the top line there is a left hand point fitted , i wish to do away with that , and fit a right hand point on that line further to the right that will allow access into the board { hope this makes sense } again regarding DCC control i was under the impression with all the peco points i have that they would work perfect on dcc with plastic fishplates fitted in sections on the points ?
     
  16. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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  17. Echidna

    Echidna Full Member

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  18. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    I use this method extensively in Warren Yard, only a few are electrically operated via Peco switches when this method is impractical.

    Jim :)
     
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  19. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Tim.
    Gary's drawing basically illustrates the point I'm making, and he also shows what I was referring to as 'Wire-in-tube', using a slide or microswitch to change the frog polarity. This is the cheapest and easiest method of doing it, but if you are changing points directly by hand then this method I doubt would be possible. You will need a method of changing frog polarity otherwise each time a loco crosses the points the wheels will cause a short. If you look at Gary's drawing, you will see that making the point frog a fixed polarity will work ok on one track, but on changing the point switching but not the polarity of the frog, the loco wheels will cause a short circuit resulting in the controller tripping out. As you are using the Gaugemaster DCC system, then their brand of frog changeover units should work without problems.
    Keith.
     
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  20. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    That is incorrect Keith. Using the slide switch as a point throw (via wire in tube) and also frog switching is possible with this method. It is tried and tested. I have used this method on both OO and O gauge layouts and it works. ;)

    Take a look at the dark blue (stock rail), green (frog), red (stock rail) wires go to the switch...

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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