A very simple LED question

Discussion in 'Other Electronic Interfaces' started by York Paul, Mar 7, 2021.

  1. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    I would normally cut the plug off and solder the wires direct Paul. If you prefer, I've a few 8 pin sockets removed from loco's, so if you want one to solder in and keep the plug on the decoder, just ask and I'll drop you one in the post.
    Keith.
     
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  2. Colin_W

    Colin_W Full Member

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    I'm with Keith on this one Paul. I think the plug is designed for use with 'DCC Ready' units. If you are wiring an older unit cut the plug off and solder the wires to the leds and resistors. You will most likely have to extend the wires anyway. The 'DCC Ready' units usually have some variation of a pcb to plug the decoder into and the wiring is already fitted. Removing the plug gives a little more flexibility and space. My opinion only other opinions are widely available.
    Col
     
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  3. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Thanks again Colin I think I need a plug to separate the wires since this is an Easybuild DPU the bogies prevent separation of the body as they sit over the holding down screws.
     
  4. Colin_W

    Colin_W Full Member

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    To my eternal shame I had no Idea what an 'Easybuild DMU' was :redface: so I've just checked out the build thread you did. Oh boy! that is some piece of modeling. Stunning work Paul.
    Col
     
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  5. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Paul

    Personally I'd cut the plug off, however here's a link DCC 8 Pin Socket .

    This may float your boat

    [​IMG]

    Paul
     
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  6. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    This one - same price £1.50 may be a bit better Lais DCC 8 Pin socket

    [​IMG]

    Note the two pads at the bottom labelled Aux 4, this will allow you to solder the purple wire to the adapter.

    Paul
     
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  7. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Thanks Paul for the info... yes I have now concluded that is what is needed and Keith here has come to the rescue with one. I need the plug for the DPU so the motor bogie can be released from the wiring in order to remove the bodyshell... its an EasyBuild design thig. On my steamers I shall dispense with the connection as not need for it.
     
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  8. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Paul

    For your stall test you'll need to connect an Ammeter in series to the track

    Cheap Ebay multimeter

    [​IMG]

    Paul
     
  9. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    Do they do a 21 pin one?
     
  10. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    jakesdad13 and Andy_Sollis like this.
  11. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    I think the Yarmouth seller on Ebay has these from time to time but I guess stocks from China may be a bit erratic presently.
    Keith.
     
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  12. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    @York Paul may be worth getting one of these and some mini plugs for the pickups and motor feeds. That way, all this part can sit in the body. Or...

    this could go in the chassis and split the wires to the lights, having the 21 pin will keep it Sound ready.. and you can get conversion harnesses between 21-to-8 pins for now so the decoder to have will still be of use..

    just a thinking ahead thought.
     
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  13. Colin_W

    Colin_W Full Member

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    Hi Paul, something popped into my head about the diagram I drew and that is I seem to remember that White LEDs have a higher voltage turn on than Red ones. This is why you shouldn't really put one resistor in the common leg as the Red will most likely be very bright an the White not so. The voltages are (approx) 4v for White and Blue LEDs and 2v for all the rest. Soooo! if you find the Red LEDs are brighter than the White ones increase the resistor values in the Red legs. I know you will be building a test rig before you install them :redface:. Also you don't have to put the resistors at the LEDs it might be convenient to put them somewhere more accessible in the wiring harness.
    Col
     
  14. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    The other issue is, in daylight conditions, to be able to see the LED's illuminated, you will be tempted to have them far too bright, on the real thing they weren't that bright at night.
    I'd suggest viewing them under low light conditions and select a value under these conditions rather in normal daylight.

    Paul
     
  15. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Just a quick update chaps... I've ordered an NCE Powercab from Hattons at the price of £159.50 which currently is best value. Hatton's say they expect a sizeable shipment to be with them within the next three weeks or so from suppliers in America. Now to chase up than man who says he sent me a Mutlimeter which still hasn't arrived as yet.
     
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  16. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    [​IMG]

    Enjoy - I get the feeling there will be more questions on the way

    Paul
     
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  17. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    I've just ordered a Tam Valley 'Hex Frog Juicer' from 'Coastal DCC' and I note they have NCE Powercabs listed as 'in stock', bit dearer though at £170.
    Keith.
     
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  18. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Coastal must have received a fresh supply since last week as I looked at them and their's were all on pre order too.
     
  19. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    If your thinking of moving all your locos to DCC I’d seriously recommend getting a Sprog interface to the laptop for programming - much quicker that trying to program from a handset if your setting speed curves. And then get Decoder Pro (which is free to download and no extra hidden costs!!!) to do the programming on.
     

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