An NSR Absolute Block instrument

Discussion in 'Miscellaneous & Oddities' started by Andy_Sollis, Aug 5, 2023.

  1. Walkingthedog

    Walkingthedog Full Member

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    I am amazed at what you are able to print. Is it strong enough for a key?
     
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  2. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    G`day Andy,
    Sorry I`ve missed this post....apologies....:faint:
    You need a good covering of Shellac with every coat to start with.
    However before you start, I would go over the bare timber with a fine wool to make it nice and smooth before you apply the shellac.
    The bare timber should be dusted off after smoothing and then give it a wash down with Methylated Spirits to really clean it off.
    The Metho on the timber will also give you an idea of how the finished job will look.
    If I were doing your block instrument I would apply shellac to one side of the box then do the top then do the other side then the front.....then I would come back to the first side and start the process all over again with another coat immediately.
    I would do this maybe five times in the one session. If you find that the shellac pad is starting to drag over the finish, it`s time to stop for the day.
    The first day`s coat of shellac should be allowed to dry for at least a day, maybe two, depending on the atmospheric conditions. Don`t do this in damp weather.
    If there is too much moisture in the air, the shellac will go a milky colour as you put it on. If this happens, stop, let it dry and then rub it back and start again in good dry weather.
    Once you Have your first coat on and it has dried, rub it back with a fine steel wool ( 0000 ) until the surface is smooth to the touch. You may find some areas need more rubbing back than others, but you need to just take the shine off the finish.
    Clean the surface of with a soft cloth.....do not use any Metho this time as it will take the shellac off.
    With a clean surface, apply the next coat in the same way as the first, in other words, multiple coats (maybe 5 ?) or until the pad starts to drag on the surface.
    Let the second coat dry for a day or two and then rub it back to a dull finish. Run you fingers across the surface to feel for little pimples and rub them back if you find any......dust of the surface once again.
    Then apply the third coat in the same way as the previous two coats.....let it dry once again for a couple of days and then give it a light rub back with the fine wool until you take the shine off the surface.
    It is now where you make a judgement call....do you add another coat or not.?
    Three coats should probably be enough, but you must also bare in mind that each subsequent coat adds a further layer of darkness to the tone.
    It`s up to you at this point.
    If you think three is enough then it`s time to finish it off with Beeswax.
    You should be able to get a tin of Beeswax for furniture from your hardware.
    Also get yourself some soft clean cloth.....old Tee shirts are good.
    Use one cloth to apply Beeswax to the box.....do one surface at a time.
    Rub the cloth into the Beeswax....apply it to the surface and rub it in well then immediately remove it with another dry cloth.
    Then buff it with a third clean cloth until you have a smooth satin surface.
    Any Beeswax that gets into hard to get a places can be removed with an old toothbrush.
    Shellac itself should give you a surface that will last for years, especially if you look after it and give it a Beeswaxing maybe once a year, or as you deem necessary. Shellac also loves to be touched by the human hand. It absorbs oils from human skin which helps to preserve it
    The one thing it does not like is having water applied to it or maybe a hot coffee cup stood on it etc.....so it should be treated with respect and it will look good for years.
    Lastly, varnishing over Shellac is possible, but not entirely necessary because the Beeswax adds that protective layer.
    I have a Bridge chair that I did about thirty years ago with shellac. All that it gets is an occasional coat of Beeswax and that`s it.....and the chair gets frequent use and still looks great.
    Hope this helps
    :tophat:Gormo
     
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  3. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    If I could post the video, you would see it working.. thankfully the key part is for the levers is ok, but I did snap one key when it jammed.

    idea is now I have a working blank is to go and get a metal one cut.
    As for the latches, not quite sure yet….
     
  4. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Fantastic Brian, thank you so much..

    only thing I have noticed is it does seem to drag a few mins after the first wipe (sponge in a cloth t shirt as suggested) so really only been doing one coat at a time.


    I do need to find some finer wire wool. I only have O at the moment. May be an internet purchase.
    Thanks again. It will all be broken down in to panels and done in some newspaper.
     
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  5. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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  6. Walkingthedog

    Walkingthedog Full Member

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    Thanks Andy
     
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  7. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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  8. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Back to doing the trim/beading for the cabinet top glass, trying to set up and use a Router (no, not the thing for the internet, but some whizzy thing with a shaped bit spinning on the bottom)

    Anyway, it didn’t go anywhere near as planned due to the length, and there being osolation in the middle, one shattered and the second came out too thin.
    IMG_8298.jpeg
    this one snapped after it was looking good.

    IMG_8299.jpeg This one as can be seen came out just too thin.

    so the next 30 mins were spent with the thinner (an electric planer) making some new strips from what was left of the last sections and then trimming up on the band saw.

    I’ve opted to go back to the original idea of simply carving them out with the sanding disc on the dremel.
     
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  9. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Hi Andy,

    Possibly too late now.
    Could you not cut the shape using the router on the full sized stock. Then cut it down to final size using the bandsaw etc?
     
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  10. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Erm.... yes. I guess I could.

    We hadn't planned on using a router when we first made them. (and at that time the band saw was playing up, till we realised one of the guides had come loose) so if we need to revisit, yes its probably a better idea. Although I've given the router bits back now. :facepalm:
     
  11. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    That's how I would have done it. I did a lot of woodworking before I moved on to metal and one of the things that I refused to let go was my router and router table.
     
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  12. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Sorry for the break but holidays etc have arrived and gone, so here is a small update.

    rather than try and cut down my old brass bell
    Post and use the thread, I decided to print the one I had drawn up. I’d been experimenting in Fusion with the threads and holes so decided why not.
    IMG_8701.jpeg
    printed, but I wonder if the thread needs a fresh cut with actual tap and dies? After half an hour winding back and forth, it cleared enough thread to get it half way. I did print a lock wheel, but somehow made it the wrong thread. So that was reprinted later. You can see how the turning as turned down the profile of the bolt shaft/thread. This was pre UV cure. It still worked after curing but took a little while again to clear through.
    IMG_8747.jpeg
    so i decided to fit it. All looks good and the new retaining knob is also now the correct thread, but because I had already cured the main bolt, it doesn’t want to turn on to the thread well..

    To may also notice that the screws are loose. I forgot to sand the bottom flat(er) and when screwing it down managed to break the base. I’ve not quite got the chamfer of the screw holes correct so they don’t sit right as it is.

    work to do..

    On another note, we recently took a trip
    To the Sill Mill museum in Derby, where they have a number of railway related items on display. Whilst the staff member was suitably distracted :lol: I had a closer look at the Tyer Absolute block they have on display.
    IMG_8618.jpeg
    It would appear on lifting the lid on the bell box that it is a genuine NSR instrument.
    IMG_8622.jpeg
    The NSR stamping can be seen on the right, but partly covered by the star from its last testing. It’s also a slightly different internal design to mine, but does more or less the same thing. Look at the colour difference between the inside and outside.
    I do wonder if the outside once matched but has faided over the years.
     
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  13. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    I've got to ask, what does 'Line Blocked' mean in relation to these signalling instruments. :scratchchin:

    Jim :)
     
  14. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    It means exactly that Jim.....the line is not yet clear for whatever reason and consequently there will be no movement from the sending signal box until the receiving signal box gives the go ahead with " Line Clear ".
    The sending signal box can request permission from the receiving signal box, with Bell Codes , to move forward into the section, however until there is a response ( Line Clear ) from the receiver, nothing moves.
    Once the train enters the section between the two boxes, the status on the instruments will change to " Train On Line " until the train leaves the receiving signal box section.
    Once the train has left the receivers section the instruments will re-set to Line Blocked.
    It`s all about safety
    :tophat:Gormo
     
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  15. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Thanks, Jim :)
     
  16. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I took the plunge last night to start recovering the first 4 of the 8 electric coils within the block instrument.
    IMG_9362.jpeg
    I took the main coil back plate out the wooden cabinet back in preparation for reviewing the coils.
    IMG_9361.jpeg
    A slightly closer look. I was amazed how much it was recessed in to the rear board.
    IMG_9360.jpeg
    This was the first coil to have its red cover removed, it simply peeled away.

    IMG_9359.jpeg
    I wasn’t expecting the white underneath.

    IMG_9379.jpeg
    There is a slight continuity bit here as missed some photos. This shows the first 2 coils refurbished and refitted.
    IMG_9380.jpeg
    And from a different angle. Each needle has 4 coils, 2 large on the left and right and two smaller top and bottom. The smaller ones are missing here.

    IMG_9382.jpeg
    Showing the two smaller coils ready for the old cover to be removed.

    IMG_9383.jpeg
    Another damaged one to replace another evening.

    IMG_9384.jpeg
    a better lit photo of the first two in situe. Each post they sit on has a block screwed in to the top which points to the middle and sits around the needle spindle.

    IMG_9388.jpeg
    All four done and a rebuild so everything is together and nothing goes missing. The other four will be for another night. I’ll take some more pictures.

    The new wrap is a cotton for book spines and seems to work well and was stuck down with a thin layer of wood glue neat.
     
  17. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I couldn’t add all the photos in as there is a limit of 10 per post as we know, so here are a few more..

    IMG_9385.jpeg
    bit of OCD?? Laying the screws out in order so I know where they all go back in place.

    IMG_9386.jpeg
    Partial way through covering the smaller coils. They are wired together making handling and wrapping a delicate job. I also couldn’t get the cotton ribbon in the correct width so had to make do with a slight overlap rather than one sheet as I would have liked.
    IMG_9387.jpeg
    showing them back in place - with the ends refitted I referred to earlier.

    Andy
     
  18. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Hi Andy,

    Taking photos of how they fit also helps these days. Back before we had digital cameras, I had to make annotated sketches just in case it took longer than I planned so I didn't forget any crucial details.
     
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  19. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Indeed.

    That's why I have half these photos, for just that reason. Although didn't help the other day when returning to the project after a month or so and finding two screws loose in the bottom and thinking... "where are these from?". I later realised that the front panel was only secured by the two two screws and not the bottom...

    Any suggestion with cleaning some of this brass up ? Some parts are far too big for the little cleaning bath and not sure the small whizzy wheel in the dremmell will do a neat enough job over that large surface.
     
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  20. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    From repairing a washing machine to a Dyson to the innards of a 3D printer I always have a digital camera to hand.
    I also use it as a digital magnifier, take a hi-res shot of a small item and show it large on a display, it's a must have toolbox item these days :scratchchin:

    Jim :)
     
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