An NSR Absolute Block instrument

Hmm…
Not something I had considered.. and the new one wouldn’t need the screw thread through it. hardest part may be the thread at the top for the knob that secures the bell on..

thoughts?

 

I suspect I may need to know what the original is... which at the moment, I have no idea. But, its another option I had not thought of exploring, but I hope this will be as a last resort as I suspect even with the Tough resin I am concerned how well it would stand up to a knock.

 

The first of the mahogany inlays has been completed.. job and half with a few repairs (the wood split when first starting with a chisel) and then when I came to do the bottom chamfer - the old adage of “measure twice cut once” came true when I measured to the wrong point and cut! Wouldn’t mind but actually went extra so could adjust the fit only to find I was 3mm too short…

glue the two ends back together, rub a bit of saw dust in the join and doesn’t loom too bad.


anyway, it’s in..


don’t pay too much attention to the bottom as the bottom rail has dropped when packed up. It’s not yet glued in.
One more to do on the other side and we’re ready to start the rubbing back and shellac.

then it’s back to the internals

 

I’ve been trying to source a new hammer striker rest and also fix the bell support post as I’ve had mixed feedback about straightening.

As it stands, I’ve not yet located a hammer rest other than the one Peter sent me, which sadly is too low and also the wrong shape.


it’s not the best if pictures as taken by a friend when he was measuring for me, but it shows the hammer striker rest in the middle of the top box. Comes off a round base in a + shape, and adjustable screw with a flat end sits through it. I have these parts from the bell support post, which won’t be needed when the bell is moved to the end so the hammer strikes the outside of the bell not the inside.

With that, and an offer from Mossy to try the super strong abs resin that doesn’t need details, I thought why not? Even it it’s just to get a placement of the parts should I get repairs or replacements later.

what I should have done was sent one of the bent bracket to make too! Oops!


New bell post. Hoping the top can be cut and threaded.


The hammer striker support bracket, but minus the screw thread.

see how we go.

 

Not drawn it yet. That does mean a complete disassemble again of the bell box. Which may not be in the next few days. Will have to see what I can fit in..
No rush. Lots to do before hand.

 

And the woodwork stage continues..

although I really should be making the second inlay, I opted today to do some cleaning back and making good.


On the left is the new lower front panel, this was made from an unknown wood in the father in laws stock pile.
The middle timber is the right front facia panel having been given a quick splash of stripper, a scrape back, a wipe with meths and then a gentle rub with some sand paper when dry (the wire wool stage is to follow)
The right hand one is the left hand front facia for comparison and at this point not touched.

All cleaned back and looking better than I imagined.. I sent this to Peter and his reply was a A+ for me in woodworking..



And here again is a comparison of the cleaned back parts to how they were.

finally, some minor work is still required here.. I’m not worried it doesn’t reach all the way in to the grove as the originals didn’t (the grove is for that inlay panel mostly) but due to a slight mid match on the front and back, I’ve spotted that there is a gap on the front and it can’t sit flush. So the back needs a small tickle to even out. I need to take around a millimeter or so off as it’s actually over length and splaying the sides at the bottom making the fit to the bottom half of the block instrument less snug than it should be.

more soon! ​

 

And the second insert is complete,
Just the adjustment of the bottom panel to make, then the trim can be trimmed to suit. Also a panel that sits on the inside against the inside of the door on the lower front half.

 

I decided it was time for an all together update where I have dropped the trim in place too (not yet adjusted though.)

I’m very pleased with this so far!

 

I thought it was time for a complete photo of it all in situe.. although no where near finished, the construction part draws to a close, and I now move on to cleaning back wood before restraining.. and then it will be to complete the internals..

 

Not ignored, that’s why mine are horizontal! OCD that they all look the same.

 

Knowing what the thread is would help..
Although I have been taking to a historian for Tyers and he says they were all the odd M threads, so M1,M3 etc…
Just need to find which.

 

apologies for the duplicate picture.. I posted the first, but forgot, then went back and couldn’t see it so posted the same photo. no idea why my screen had not refreshed with the earlier posting.

Anyway, looking at doing a little paint stripping tonight.

 

2 days, one update.

the side panels have been stripped back and wire wooled.


There are also a few bits of trim. This photo was mid work.


I then today made a start on the brass work that needed repair. Let’s just say it didn’t all go to plan due to an unforeseen issue!

first of all the L bracket for the bell box was straightened. It’s now refitted and shown in situe.


So that was successful!

however, when we came to apply heat and tweak the bell post, it turned out that it had previously been drilled and filled and re drilled for the thread.



Here we are removing the threaded rod which is part of the old hammer rest.



Well the bell now sits a lot straighter, but the post has a slight twist to it. Can’t be helped, so may see how we go with the 3D version.


And finally, here you can see the crack and the second filled hole. I don’t need the current threaded hole any more, so may flood with some solder, unless any of our kit makers want to volunteer!

 

No rush yet. Still got the lower woodwork to do yet. And some more metalwork cleaning.