Can anyone help provide Lima class 117 bits?

Discussion in 'Wanted' started by Tallpaul70, Nov 2, 2019.

  1. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

    Likes Received:
    Dec 16, 2015
    Hi Paul.
    I've found that "UHU" clear glue is ok to fix clear celluloid, though you have to be careful as it can be very 'stringy'. The 'Pound Shops' are my source for this, as model shops and craft stores charge daft prices for it! I have a few of the long self-tapping body to chassis fixing screws if you're still short, as I completely remove the plastic 'pillars' from the roof and rely on the clips at each end as the pillars are not very pretty and stand out if (like me) you fit passengers and internal lighting. My project is still ongoing as I'm partway through respraying the 3 bodies of my units, and until that's finished, I can't do the internal lighting install or the connecting plugs/sockets between coaches. I've not yet decided whether to replace the glazing with celluloid yet, no point in my buying the 'SEF' glazing as my rear DMB is the one converted to the 'correct' spec using the "Silver Fox" kit, so the 'SEF' replacement glazing will not be correct for that coach. I have no idea what seating colours were used, or what colour the partitions were either, anyone help there?
    My three chassis have been completely rewheeled and replacement motor bogie fitted, DCC converted and run nicely as a 'train', just waiting in the queue for 'further progress'!
    Tallpaul70 likes this.
  2. Tallpaul70

    Tallpaul70 Full Member

    Likes Received:
    Mar 2, 2019
    Thanks Keith,
    Yes, UHU is a useful glue.
    I'm not fitting internal lighting in my 117/121s but I do fit passengers! I tend to have just one fixing screw per unit, just to give the clips a helping hand, I know what you mean about them looking out of place with lighting.
    If you do replace the glazing I would be interested in the old glazing units?
    Like you, my DMU projects are long term and sometimes get interrupted by other things that come up!
    So if you would hang on to the screws, and see what else you have surplus when your rebuild is complete, then we can think about a deal on what you have spare?
    Best regards
  3. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

    Likes Received:
    Dec 14, 2015
    Hi Paul, I hadn't thought of how to cut the plastic lids, as it is pretty rigid I imagine a razor saw or mini hacksaw to get the flat part of the lid, then use a scrawker/Olfa cutter to break it down the required sizes.

    Cheer's, Pete.
    Tallpaul70 likes this.
  4. SRman

    SRman Full Member

    Likes Received:
    Dec 28, 2015
    Yes, scissors or sharp knife will cut the shirt box material, but the Ferraro Roche material seems rather brittle to me (although I may be wrong on that as I haven't ever tried to cut it).

    For glue, I use Krystal Klear, or more recently, Glue 'n' Glaze as either will not only glue the glazing materials to plastic, white metal or brass, but they will also fill any slight gaps and dry clear. Any excess wipes off cleanly with a damp cloth or tissue.

    I used to use a contact cement, but that had to be kept clear of the visible areas and required the glazing to be placed correctly first time as it 'grabs' instantly. Bringing us back to the class 117 conversions, the contact cements work a treat in sticking brass overlays to the Lima body shells for things like the class 120 conversion (Craftsman brass sides and ends).
    jakesdad13 and Tallpaul70 like this.

Share This Page