Re this build and Class 26 you may want to look at the other albums on Brains site http://www.flickr.com/photos/brianews/ re Class 26 photos and his various builds JLTRT/Heljan plenty of useful information and this link may also may be useful https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/i...ass-2627-photos/&tab=comments#comment-3444222 . Although you may be lost for several hours . Andrew
Now I'm getting a little confused - I know it's easily done, is there any logic to the step allocation on the bogies, the Cl 27 seem to have the straight steps, but from the pics Andrew has posted links to both straight and asymetric steps are on the 26's. Do all 26's have the door window plated up ? Paul
Confused? how do you think I feel? Actually it's likely that the steps as fiited to the pilot scheme loco's, where swapped around as and when.
Some great pictures on Brian's site so thanks for posting up on here, I've trawled through those albums looking for the fine detail and the RM Web ones are interesting too... all are a source of great reference. What is coming across to me quite strongly is the amount of interest being shown in these Type 2 loco's which confirms these will be popular kits... best get back on the build again or Toto will be coming after me
I may be quite wrong Dundee but it appears the asymetric steps were fitted to the pilot build BRCW locos eg the first Class 26 and these locos were fitted with leaf springs, later modifications saw these springs replaced with secondary coils and damper fitted on a modified swing link support arrangement. Some of these mods included replacing the cab steps with the later design straight sided ones as fitted to the later builds and Class 27 locos, however and I suspect as a result of cost cutting some of the early batch Class 26's received the upgraded swing link suspension and dampers but retained the original asymetric steps, 26003 being an example of this. Note also the semi covered cab roof front vent grill on later Class 26 mods and one 26 I've seen where the centre cab window has been blanked over completely.
Unfortunately the only answer is to pick a loco and period and try and find a picture for the period you want to model (I know that sounds obvious ) Mods were made all the time as locos went through works etc . I don't envy the kit manufacturer as their were so many variants and one offs amongst locos during their life time must be a nightmare to try and produce a full kit . All the best. Andrew
Yes I agree Andrew, the ultimate decision of what will go into these kits is down to Toto for my role is to test build the prototype and make recommendations, hopefully etches in the production kits will cover the main variations allowing builders a reasonable amount of variety.
I'm just finishing the wirework drawings this morning before I look at a couple of STL issues. All major variations have been covered and I've managed to ensure the kits are economically viable while doing so. Was quite a game I can tell you!
Imagine the task at Airfix with an aircraft kit. The do limit you to a specific aircraft (and occasionally get it wrong) by the artwork supplied and transfers and there were probably hundreds more of a particular type of plane. 7,900 Lancaster’s for example... so they limit it to 3 in a kit. So yes, pick a prototype and get lots of pictures. At least Toto won’t be doing the transfers, but it may be worth some notes in the instructions mentioning some of these differences observed to help the purchaser build or avoid a particular loco/batch.
90% of people that buy an Airfix kit either wouldn't notice or couldn't care less. The 10% that do are provided for by accesory manufacturers and their own ability to scratch build. But that's the joy of a kit. Model railways outside of 00 is a little more precise. It is however, generally accepted that no kit can ever cater for all variations at all times of a prototype throughout it's service life.
Getting the 3D prints organised, to try and keep as many parts of similar height together - this will help optimise the print times, the exception being the bogie prints. A few pics Cab Desk and Radiators - angling the radiators stopped resin pooling underneath giving problems curing the print. Door Handrail recesses, Front lower valances, Cowling for the fan and roof vents. Originally this had the Small and Large Cab Cylinders (Cl 26 has 6 x large cyls, Cl 27 has 2 x small cyls and 4 x large cyls), printing the cyls on end gave good results but took almost 5 hours to print, printing the cyls horizontally gave a print time of 2h but the cyls were rugby ball profile than round. So they were moved to another print and the roof vents added inplace. Print time 1h 10m Bulkheads - now printed at a 30 degree angle with maximum heavy supports to help keep the print flat. Cab Floors and Radiator spars Printed at a 15 degree angle with lots of supports Fan and Grills All angled to 30 degrees to get a reasonble printand plenty of space below the grills to allow the resing to flow out Paul
Steve I'll have a look at the gutter cantrail profile as you asked and get back to you tomorrow now that the bogies are fabricated I can focus on the bodyshell.
Sounds like a nightmare time Andy as for transfers I shall use mainly HMRS dryfix on the display model, I'm not comfortable with Fox stuff they are a bit DIY... no offence to those who do use them its just that they are not my cup of tea.
So we now have two bogies completed more or less as far as the soldering process goes, all the remaining dress are in plastic and will be glued, the asymetric shaped cab steps may be an exception as I've purposefully left these out until everything else is in place because they are a very delicate item. I will point out this is a prototype build and some items may be subject to change or alteration but either way here is the first one primed in grey with the inner frames finished earlier this week. The second bogie in unpainted state just for comparison. An overhead view. And a ground level view. Finally as the primer was drying I knocked up the skeleton, oh look there's another one I made earlier... a lot earlier like back in January... don't worry Toto its all nice and straight. Tomorrow I start on the bodyshell and see where that leads me.
A thing of beauty. the bogies have turned out well. I have fired a couple of notes of interest away to white metal casters in order to get copies of the finished products or the first draft prototypes in their intended finished guise. Bloody hell ..... so many parts to the overall development / production process but I hope being able to follow the various processes gives an element of confidence to the buyer that these kits are being thouroughly thought through prior to be released for sale. Keep up the good work Yorkie. toto
What I've done is etched a line along the base of the inner chassis (As in Red) and using the spare 1mm wire on the kit, allowed that to be soldered in to create an 'L' shape which will prevent any flexing.
I still think that some horizontal bracing on the main frame would be good. Obviously somewhere that would not conflict with grills and other openings if that were possible. Maybe once the shell is soldered in place there would be no need for it ...... just a thought. Cheers toto