Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by Keith M, Sep 4, 2020.
Great work Keith, moving along nicely.
Nice one Keith If I had known you needed an Allen key you could have had one of mine mate, I seem to be getting a few on stock, a bit like coat hangers .
When fitting the wheels I like to give the square axle ends a stroke or two with a fine file to get rid of any burrs etc, makes for easy fit and removal without damaging brake rigging or paint.
My Allen keys (I bought 4) arrived today so no problem now. At some point I'm going to have to make a decision on what couplings to use on this loco and whatever other stock I end up with. I use Kadee's for my 00 gauge stock and wonder if they are available for 0 gauge and possibly NEM pocket type (Like Kadee No.17/18/19/20) also, anyone know? Also I made a modification to the motor mount on this loco, soldering in a pair of bearings then filing down the inner sides of the driven axle bearings between the frames. This meant I had to find another pair of bearings to complete the drive setup, and these I 'borrowed' from the "Merchant Navy" kit so I need to replace them......who best to buy from with good/speedy service, likewise I anticipate replacing the very nice white metal buffers supplied with the kit with cast or turned brass sprung ones, again, where best to buy from as I'm still learning in 0 gauge!
Couplings are a personal choice, I only use couplings which the real thing would have had... so the likes of Kadee are out for me I'm afraid, Jim seems to have his own spec of brass axle bearing which is very good but please take note replacement bushes are far from standard... they all have the same 3/16 bore but have different O.D thicknesses and the flange thickness varies too, mix different types on the same frame and there is a potential to have to use varying thickness axle shim washers to take up side play... something you won't want with leading driving wheels and tight clearances behind slidebar, crosshead and con rod revolutions. I used to use Nairnshire until he went AWOL then changed to Markits for my axle bearings although you could use Slaters as they are just down the lane from you. For buffers you can try Laurie Griffin or Ragstone or even NMRS but his stuff is white metal casts, Markits are beautifully made turned brass but are off scale in length and a pile of work as you have to drill out to fit dummy buffer plank bolts in.
I had a 'spray-day' yesterday with the cleaned up chassis (a big 'thumbs up for "Barkeepers Friend!), clear etch primer first, followed after several hours baking the chassis in the warm sunshine, by the first of 2 satin black coats from a rattle can. It came up nicely so I set to today and built it back up again, fitting the plunger pickups and also a set of wiper pickups on the bogie as suggested by Jim in the instructions. The loco will be DCC and as I only expect to have about 5 loco's in total (well, that's the plan, but who knows!) I shall fit sound to them all. Anyway, this is how things look with all the bits fitted, the 2 wires to the motor are from the power supply as the chassis has had it's half hour in each direction 'Running In' up on blocks as yet I don't have an 0 gauge rolling road.
Here is the underside view showing the pickups and wiring. Unsurprisingly, as Jim is an Electrical Engineer by profession, the etches are provided with suitable holes to pass wiring through making getting all the pickup wires to one central point easy.
So once the 'running-in' period was dispensed with, I test fitted the body for clearances, and ran the chassis once again to be sure......all ok. The flanges at each end of the chassis just behind the buffers will have to be modified as despite Jim supplying some beautiful white metal cast buffers, I had a trip to Slaters at Darley Dale (only a few miles from my home, so handy) to buy a set of sprung cast brass ones, together with some spare axle bushes to replace those I 'borrowed' from the Scorpio 'Merchant Navy' kit, and also a set of crankpins and bushes, since I succeeded in losing one bush in the carpet whilst removing them from the blackening solution with a set of tweezers!
It all sits nicely together, chassis to body as can be seen from underneath. Now the chassis itself is pretty much complete and body clearances are fine, I can resume body construction, which is why , as yet, I've not bothered cleaning the body. That will come immediately before etch primer is applied so it won't have time to tarnish.
Very nice Keith. I’m going to try out the barkeepers friend, found some in the loco supermarket yesterday.