David Andrews Princess - 6206 Princess Marie Louise

Discussion in 'Loco Builds' started by Rob Pulham, May 22, 2021.

  1. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    It's time for another weekend project to break cover.

    Another of my outstanding jobs is the build of a David Andrews LMS Princess Pacific kit. The Loco is to be 6206 Princess Marie Louise depicted in the late 1930’s.

    I was pleasantly surprised upon examining the box contents, that the gent that I am building it for had ordered all nickel etches.

    6206 was slightly unusual in that for much of her life she was attached to a tender equipped with a coal pusher. The additional parts for this have been supplied by Finney7 from their Duchess tender.

    The box also contains a lot of additional extra castings to upgrade the kit parts.


    DA Princess Tender Chassis 2.jpg

    DA Princess Tender Chassis 1.jpg

    The wheels are Alan Harris castings turned by the gent that I am building it for.
     
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  2. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Is the chassis live on one side?

    Pete.
     
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  3. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    It will be Pete. Pick up is to be via the American method.
     
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  4. Steve Fay

    Steve Fay Full Member

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    Watching with interest, one of my favourite locomotives.
     
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  5. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    In that case I will try not to disappoint:thumbup:
     
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  6. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    When I started on the brake pull rods and fitting the water scoop, I quickly realised that the kit is very lacking in detail underneath the tender.

    After being kindly supplied a drawing that showed the detail of the inner frames of the tender, I started to add some additional details. My spares box yielded a couple of balance weights which I added to the linkages supplied in the kit. Not perfect but better than nothing. This is still a work in progress.

    IMG_0001.JPG

    IMG_0002.JPG

    IMG_0003.JPG



    As you can see from the photos it does all move at the minute but I may need to solder it solid depending on how far I can go with the remaining linkages and how controllable they are.


    I also started work on the brake linkages adding a bit of 3D detail to the joints using scrap etch and brass rod.


    IMG_0004.JPG

    IMG_0005.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

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  7. Mark4mm

    Mark4mm Full Member

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    Rob the attention to detail you put into your builds are just brilliant.:thumbs:
     
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  8. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Thanks Mark,

    It's adding all the details that gives me the most pleasure when building models.
     
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  9. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Its those tiny details and the attention paid which makes these things tick as you know Rob... loving your micro add ons and following you through this build. Lovely work as always.:tophat::tophat::tophat::tophat::thumbup:
     
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  10. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    The next interesting bit of the build was when I came to look at fitting the brakes. The kit provides etched brakes for the tender in the usual dual layer fashion. I had some nice casting from the Hobby Horse Reynolds range. They were the ones that I was drilling out when I showed my use of pliers to clamp them for drilling a short while ago.

    When I put some rods through the chassis in the holes provided and dry fitted the Reynolds castings to the stretchers and pull rod frame they wouldn’t fit because they were not long enough. After a bit of head scratching I checked the drawing and sure enough they are to scale length. However when I checked them again the etched ones provided it all made sense.

    IMG_0002.JPG

    The answer to this little dilemma was to re-drill the holes in the frames 1mm lower down. There was just enough frame depth to do this without having to resort to adding hanger brackets.
     
  11. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    With the brake hanger height sorted it was time to fit them. Because the wheels are on telescopic axles, they need much more wiggle room to be removable than the Slaters et al, types. It’s actually quite surprising how little room you need to remove a Slaters wheel.

    The lack of space around the brakes meant that for the wheels to be removable the brakes need to be removable too. I did this by adding a collar from microbore tube over the .9mm rods that the brakes hang from on the frames. And at the moment the cross shaft at the front of the tender is removable but I am sure that if this were fixed the brakes would pivot out of the way to get the wheels out.


    IMG_00012.JPG

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    Just to prove that they are removable.

    IMG_0005_1.JPG


    I also made the two quite hefty support rods for the water scoop.

    IMG_0003_1.JPG


    Plus, a Blue Peter moment in that here’s one I did earlier. I fitted the brake cylinder that I turned when I first got the Unimat 3.


    IMG_0005.JPG


    A few general shots of the inner chassis, for no other reason than I got a bit carried away with the camera.

    IMG_0001_1.JPG

    IMG_0002.JPG
     
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  12. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Now Rob, with all this attention to detail, I was expecting at least a servo to raise and lower the scoop, however still you seem to have missed the fact that the scoop is blocked :avatar:.

    Wonerfull bui;ld as usual

    Paul
     
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  13. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Further progress on the tender has seen the basics of the body put together.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    So far, the only issues have been some bowing of the half-etched sheets which has taken a bit of work to get them soldered up straight. The worst being the rear sheets with the steps and the coal door.

    IMG_0001.JPG

    IMG_0002.JPG


    In the end I added a second sheet of 10thou nickel to back off the coal door.

    IMG_0006.JPG

    I still have more detail to add to the coal door.

    IMG_0005.JPG
    IMG_0003.JPG
    IMG_0007.JPG

    IMG_0004.JPG
     
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