DCC Loco Conversions - 1 - DCC and Me

Discussion in 'DCC Control' started by Jim Freight, May 22, 2021.

  1. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    DCC a Marmite Technology

    The "Realising My Dream" series of posts summarises the development of my personal railway, warts and all, but what about this new fangled tech called "DCC", fad, gimmick or maybe useful?

    50 years on from my first childhood with most real world hassles out of the way I had dived back into model railways with relish, but how things had changed since I last enjoyed my trains back in the early 70s at the company railway club.

    I still had all my locomotives and rolling stock from the 1970s that I intended to run, some of those were over 10 years old even then, some nearly as old as me.

    The company railway club was long established and working to 4mm scale, OO gauge with all the track work hand built with code 100 rail on copper clad fibreglass sleepers. There was certainly some talent demonstrated crafting all the point work.

    Stock was owned by the members and was mainly Hornby Dublo with some British Trix so Dublo/Trix couplings were the de-facto standard. At the time the Triang Mk3 hook and bar was current but was not liked for two reasons, one the size, and two the off centreline hooks would cause the front wagons in a long train of wagons (5-6ft) to crab significantly and aid derailments.

    So all the stock I bought (including Wrenn, Airfix GMR, Palitoy Mainline and Hornby) I retrofitted to those couplings. Second hand Dublo and Trix was available from a local model shop which like many others faded away by the early noughties.

    Along with my 2nd childhood a devil came onto the scene to extract cash from my wallet, eekBay and my modest collection of 'vintage' exploded with even more Dublo and British Trix, oh dear.

    Now this was before I was able to build a layout anywhere, not for at least another 5 years, so they piled up in stackable Stollen cake trays from Lidl, thanks Lidl, great long term stock boxes!

    DCC or not DCC?

    Building the railway baseboards and supporting framework was very much independent of whether I continued with DC or migrated to DCC, it was only when committing to track laying and wiring a decision is required.

    Having been a professional engineer I cast a critical eye over this "Only two wires" system.

    This was probably the biggest dubious quality sales pitch statement since someone coined the phrase "The greatest thing since sliced bread". I hate pre-sliced bread, always too thin and goes stale quickly due to all the exposed surfaces, no problem, throw it away and buy more!

    The only two wires earache has since been superseded by those selling expensive cars, "Self Drive", "Auto .. blah" etc. "oh but you still need to sit in the driver’s seat and stay fully alert with nothing to do but stare at the road and fall asleep".

    Ok, back from my "One foot in the grave" semi-rant, (loved that show, I appreciate it even more as I become a Victor), off I go again, two wires eh?

    Let's face it, if the non-techie public was told the truth it would be total gobbledegook, and besides for introductory layouts it only needed a few "Two wires", or in 'tech' speak "pairs of wires" and sales would not have been forthcoming. So I suppose they knew what they were doing.

    Technically, system wise, yes, it is only two wires, basic operation is that all power and control is passed in an outgoing signal to the decoder and returns back to the source, hence the two wires.

    Implementation however needs multiple pairs because in the real world we have joints in our rails and nickel silver has higher resistance than copper, giving the user the potential for intermittent connections and voltage drops on a well loaded system.

    If you do run everything possible it will require a sound power distribution system to satisfy demand over the entire layout. This wasn't required so much in my DC days, it was a mix of controlled 12vDC for trains, 16vAC for points and uncontrolled 12vDC for other items such as lighting and signals.

    The weakness of DCC is also its greatest strength, digital circuitry that responds quickly to demands but also to an interruption in the power supply which causes it to reboot when power is re-applied.

    A momentary interruption of DC is not noticed as the motor continues as a flywheel keeps the loco rolling and carries on immediately power is restored.

    Unfortunately the DCC components will shut down quickly, reboot and ramp up speed again based on your CV settings, if the interruption occurs again, it repeats the cycle.

    The “only two wires” started the Marmite scenario over DCC and has been the cause of many heated debates, sorry, arguments with battle lines drawn, and casualties, those chucked off of groups or left in disgust.

    Having worked on the large cab-control wired company club layout supporting up to 13 drivers the thought of even wiring a large layout with DC for even say, 4 driver cab-control with large inflexible control panels was daunting. A railway cannot evolve if that optimised control panel needs changing or all the section breaks are in the wrong place. Track sections too short for a long loco or too long for a short one is also irritating.

    Concluding

    So DCC is good for me because :-

    1) I can drive and park any given loco anywhere,
    2) I can really drive a double header,
    3) I can really drive a banker,
    4) My railway can evolve easily and readily.

    My series of posts is not about whether you like Marmite, sorry, DCC or not, they are about the 'fun' I have had with locomotive decoding fitting over the last 9 years, and hope I can convey what you may be up against with models from different manufacturers over the last 50 years.

    By all means tell me where I have gone wrong, could have done it better or different, or for me to explain in more detail, have a chuckle at what may seem masochistic, or any questions whatsoever, but please don't try and convince me that DC is better than DCC, Rule 1 applies.

    Decoder fittings I will cover is for driving locos only, I do not use DCC for sound or accessories. However I will include many pre-DCC, those so called "DCC Ready" horrors and on through to those which need small machine tools to modify e.g. Hornby Dublo integrated motors which I have yet to tackle.

    Next: Before I get on with the conversions I'll outline my general approach, techniques and tools, useful and not so useful.

    Jim

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    Image: Hornby Dublo Stanier 8F

    Cropped DSCF6350.JPG
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2024
  2. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    The start of another great series Jim

    I've yet to try and convert a Doublo - or in my case a Wrenn Duchess "City of Stoke on Trent" locomotive, when I do get round to it, I will replace the motor magnet as well.

    Keep up the good work.

    Paul
     
  3. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Hi Paul, thanks.

    I would consider re-magnetising if possible as direct replacement of the magnet with a NEO type can be counterproductive, it will certainly improve torque above the original as new and reduce the current consumption but it can make running far less smooth at low speeds, it is possible to have too strong a magnet, which causes cogging at low speed.

    Some I have upgraded with NEO and been good, others poor, having bought a magnetiser a few years ago I opt for a re-mag first.

    Admittedly this is more of an issue with tank engines for shunting as opposed to the larger heavy locomotives used at speed, but don't throw away the original magnet in case you decide to revert.

    Jim
     
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  4. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Thanks for the heads up Jim, I will keep that in mind, last time I powered up this loco it couldn't pull the its tender nevermind the skin of a custard.

    Paul
     
  5. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    This is just my 'Twopennorth' concerning DCC fitting based on my personal experience.
    The main 'Rule' here is that if a loco doesn't run well on DC, then don't convert it until you've sorted the running problems as DCC is not a panacea that will cure them. Having DCC converted well over 125 00 gauge loco's, some "DCC Ready", some "Not suitable for DCC" (The 'Wickham trolley' is one), and a number of the dreaded Bachmann 'Split-chassis', I'm of the opinion that there is no such thing as a loco that cannot be converted to DCC, though I admit I've not looked at the venerable 'Hornby Dublo' loco's. How well some loco's respond to conversion varies, but can usually be accommodated with CV alterations, though the usual main problem I've found is normally one of space to actually physically fit the decoder, sometimes needing removal of part of the chassis on pre-DCC models. I don't have 'machining facilities' or indeed the ability to use them if I did, so my usual method involves the use of hacksaw and file to create enough space, a sort of 'brute force and ignorance' tactic, but as the guy who taught me my trade used to say, "Five minutes thought saves half an hour of tearing about", basically re-translated to 'think first before cutting lumps off a chassis!'
    One thing I have found, and others including Jim might also have discovered is that Hornby in recent years having outsourced their production to China, 'Quality Control' seems not to be at the top of their agenda, and reported problems have included not using 'Standard' wiring colours, (not unique to Hornby, Heljan are just as bad!) unmarked 'Pin 1' on sockets, wrongly connected wiring, and in one case wiring from driving wheel pickups polarity opposed to those of the front bogie pickups, resulting in immediate destruction of the decoder. As a retired Electrician, I check these things as part of my installation procedure, but an unfortunate trap for the unwary or inexperienced, and not something that should be expected given the price of models nowadays.
    I've used most of the well known brands of decoder, from the very expensive down to the cheap, Zimo and Lenz being at the top end, and my now 'Standard fit' Chinese 'LaisDCC' at around a 'tenner' apiece with very little difference in performance. When it comes to sound decoders though, I favour Zimo, having tried (and had problems with) ESU, others may disagree but that's just my experience, the actual sound files again down to personal preference. Once again, where sound fitting is required, available space is the main problem, decoders are only slightly larger than non-sound ones, but space for the speaker can be the real snag, often easy on diesel loco's, but more difficult with steam loco's. Hornby's solution where tender loco's are concerned is to fit in the tender, but it sounds odd to hear the 'chuff's' coming from the wrong end of the loco! It's usually easier to fit a speaker into tank loco's, but some ingenuity may be required, though now I've moved on to 0 gauge, space is becoming less of an issue.
    Keith.
     
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  6. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Which is how many a Dublo loco ended up with a burnt out armature, when it's that bad it cannot be used anyway, but when it's half way there the armature burns. It's curious I have had some locos with magnets intact after 40 years, confirmed by low current draw, others die quickly, even without disassembly, surprised a Wrenn has had that problem.

    I have had the odd Triang magnet fail, but that is rare too.

    Jim
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2021
  7. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Hi Keith.

    I've no experience with sound or Lais loco decoders but can wholeheartedly agree with what you say on other the issues which match my findings after fitting decoders to a large quantity and variety of locos, especially those that were manufactured decades before DCC.

    It can also be quite shocking how bad some so called DCC ready locos are for fitting and performance on DCC and how amazingly good some vintage locos can be with very little work.

    The Dublo 8F in the image was a simple conversion being a non-Ringfield and despite only 4 wheel pickup is an excellent performer on DCC which encourages me to convert two other Ringfield motored 8Fs which will be more of a challenge.

    Jim
     
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  8. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Jim.
    Some of the ringfield motors fitted to various 00 gauge Lima models are the same motors that Hornby used and I've replaced several with motors from computer CD drive drawers which are an easy conversion, but only suitable for use on DCC as they are 5 volt motors which would have a short but gay life if used on DC unless you add a sizeable series resistor, but then there's the issue of heat and space required! At one time, there was a guy in Finland selling these conversion motors on Ebay UK complete with a new plastic gear cog quite cheaply, and mine were bought from him as I don't have a supply of duff computers handy, don't know if he's still selling these. I found with the ringfield motors that they were 'All-or-nothing' in performance, ie, you give it a bit of voltage, nothing, a bit more, nothing, a bit more, and it's off like a racehorse, hardly 'prototypical', whereas after the conversion, it behaved as it should. Once again, just my experience with conversions.
    Keith.
     
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  9. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Hi Keith, that conversion seems quite popular but I have not really found that the all or nothing motion has been an issue, but then again many of my Lima diesel locomotives and railcars have had a significant increases in weight to compensate for wheel changes eliminating rubber tyred wheelsets, (rubber tyres are a pet hate, if I can dispense with them I will, filthy things). The extra weight in the spacious loco bodies tames them somewhat.

    If it wasn't that Heljan's build quality has been so awful for the price I would have bought their Class 25, 33 etc rather than spend a lot of time on making the Lima models into decent DCC runners, their lack of detail doesn't bother me, probably 1/3rd of my loco fleet are 'antique' many with motor back ends on the footplate!

    Some of the old Triang, Triang-Hornby and Hornby, 3 different eras of design IMO of pre-DCC relied a lot on the early magnet grip on steel rails and later rubber tyres and need a similar ballast load in their bodies for decent grip on my gradients, similarly it tames them and enhances pickup efficiency between rail and wheels.

    Certainly the all or nothing has been present in recent 0-4-0 and 0-6-0 'cheapies' but then again they are probably aimed at kiddies train set racetracks, likewise basic Bachmann and Hornby fitted decoders.

    Jim
     
  10. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Some of the 'Cheapie's from Hornby use the same can motor as the 'Scalextric' slot racing cars, expected life of 150 hours running!!!
    Keith.
     
  11. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Unlike the 1960s Scalextric cars of my childhood which had a variant of the sturdy X04.

    The only plus of these tiny motors is that many more smaller locos were possible, and even larger ones had their footplates freed of motor back ends, no longer crewed by a mutilated driver and fireman.

    Mind you the move away from basic 3 pole armatures certainly improved slow running, but who needs that in a starter set.
     

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