DCC Loco Conversions - 37 - Tri-ang Britannia R.259 1960

Discussion in 'DCC Control' started by Jim Freight, Aug 16, 2022.

  1. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Possibly the simplest type of conversion, it is easily applied to X04 motors and similar types.

    This loco has undergone many changes in its lifetime but this installation would be valid even in its original state, except for smoke units which I do not connect to a decoder.

    I initially fitted this loco with a Hattons DCR-8PIN-HarnessMini but would be upset by Britannia bouncing over one particular set of points on the mainline where power was interrupted enough to momentarily stop the loco. However if Britannia was driven slowly over those same points no problem whatsoever.

    Second attempt was one of my first fits of a Rails Connect family decoder, the RoS-6D, this proved successful so is shown here, I temporarily fitted a 6 pin socket to the chassis which I have now left it in place.

    Currently (2022+) I solder directly to pins 1 to 4 of the RoS-6D and crop off the unused pins.

    Fitting a RoS-6D Decoder

    Suppression components removed and both arms of the brush spring are insulated with sleeves, decoder wires are soldered to the brushes. Decoder fixed in place with a double sided sticky pad.

    The images show the position of the RoS-6D.

    1 DSCF0864.JPG

    2 DSCF0865.JPG

    3 DSCF0866.JPG

    4 DSCF0867.JPG


    Summary

    A straightforward DCC conversion with the right decoder family!


    Discussion always :welcome:

    Jim

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    Last edited: Feb 24, 2024
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  2. Dave Cowell

    Dave Cowell Full Member

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    Well this is brilliant I just picked up the Iron Duke Britannia class and once I opened I thought can of worms springs to mind my only concern is it only seems to have pickups on one side of the loco, can any one help with the answer as DCC works on both rails, my thought is isolating the motor from the chassis but it still leave no pickup on one rail however I have a new tender chassis that has pickups so can I write this for the dcc and isolate the motor and then feed from the decoder any help would be appreciated thanks
     
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  3. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Hi Dave.

    Please upload some images and tell me who makes this loco and I may be able to help you.

    Jim :)
     
  4. Walkingthedog

    Walkingthedog Full Member

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    On one side the wheels are isolated from the axle so use pickups to supply power. On the other side the the wheels are not isolated so the chassis is live.
     
  5. Dave Cowell

    Dave Cowell Full Member

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    Hi Gents

    thanks for the reply’s I will get some pictures uploaded and maybe it can be done.
    Brian I get what you are saying I will figure it out
    this begs another question in my haste I bought one of the new Hornby decoders but feel it may not be up to the higher current the old motors draw and even though not expensive I don’t feel like blowing it up just yet.
     
  6. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Hi Dave, if you look at some of my introductory articles on converting locos they should help you, but certainly get back to us here, most locos can be converted, some are just more challenging than others, and some are not worth the effort due to the materials they were made of.

    Link to my earlier articles here

    Jim :)
     
  7. Dave Cowell

    Dave Cowell Full Member

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    Hi Jim

    this one will be done if at all possible it’s my first proper Locomotive so it needs to run on my mates layout as I have done all the wiring and DCC conversion for him, I have a little Jinty which was an easy conversion, bought this on eBay because it looked good and had been weathered it’s not a perfect specimen but needs all the TLC it can get
     
  8. Dave Cowell

    Dave Cowell Full Member

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    IMG_0472.jpeg IMG_0471.jpeg IMG_0470.jpeg IMG_0472.jpeg IMG_0471.jpeg IMG_0470.jpeg
     
  9. Dave Cowell

    Dave Cowell Full Member

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    Hi Jim images enclosed, it looks very much the same as the one you did chassis slightly different some cleaning and soldering required but soldering I do for a Job so no hardship there, I just need to be sure of the steps needed to isolate the motor
     
  10. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Yes, very much the same as mine, all you need to do to insolate the motor is to put a sleeve on the brush spring wire that is bare, pink sleeves in the images above, especially visible in my last two images.

    Track power goes to the decoder from the pickup wire, and a solder tag attached to the chassis for the other, should be able to see that in my pics too.

    Motor power from the decoder goes directly on the brushes, make sure there is slack to prevent the wires tugging on the brushes.

    I would suggest you give the loco a thorough clean up for good electrical conductivity, wheels through to brushes and commutator.

    Before connecting the decoder check with a multimeter that both brushes are definitely not connected to either sets of wheels otherwise the decoder will likely be destroyed if track power gets to the decoder motor drive connections.

    Then confirm on the programming track.

    The loco probably has magnetic grip, so the tyres are probably steel, the tyres will need cleaning often.

    However these locos will run very well.

    I suspect a Hornby decoder may not be up to the job as they strike me as minimal spec on all aspects, never had any joy with them so never use them now.

    Jim :)
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2023
  11. Dave Cowell

    Dave Cowell Full Member

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    Jim it’s thanks to guys like you that have done these things and posted it, what decoder would you recommend I would have liked sound but it’s not priority,

    thanks for your assistance
    Dave
     
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  12. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Hi Dave, the Rails of Sheffield, "Connect family" RoS-6D is what I found works well, Jim :)
     
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  13. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Regarding sound, I would not advise it, they are expensive, easily damaged and will probably be drowned out by the amount of noise these old timers make :avatar:

    Jim :)
     
  14. Dave Cowell

    Dave Cowell Full Member

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    Jim this one has been looked after and runs well on DC so not to many headaches, now looking for new front bogie wheels as I noticed a chip in one when I photographed it.
    It never rains
     
  15. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    They do disintegrate with age, I fitted relatively fine scale wheels to mine because decades ago it was run on handbuilt track built with code 100 rail, these days I use Peco Streamline Code 100, if on the other hand you are running it on the old Super 4 track then replacement coarse ones should be available on eBay.

    Jim :)
     
  16. Dave Cowell

    Dave Cowell Full Member

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    Hi All

    DCC now Fitted thanks to Jim.
    Now I need to get the rear light on the tender sorted and give it a run
     
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  17. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Great, thanks for letting me know, Jim :thumbup:
     

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