First steps in Inglenookery on this site; I give you "Disraeli Gears" a tatty old yard named after the engineering workshop that will form one of the buildings part of the layout, and because I was watching a documentary of how the album of the same name was put together. The trackplan was unashamedly sourced from here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/66118-do-all-train-sets-have-to-be-tailchasers/ as it used Hornby track, a box of which I happened to have up in the loft doing nothing. I am planning on using electrics to control the points, again because I had some laying about. I haven't got as far as siting building as yet, but I will definitly include the scalescenes low relief warehouse and probably the low relief factory as well. I am open to ideas though, so long as you are happy to have them ignored if they don't fit with what I want to achieve, which is basicaly an industrial shunting site with bits of old rail and junk lying around. Attached files
Looks good. I like the way the track snakes across the board. I'll be watching this one for sure. Ian
Inglenooks are a great way to get something up and running, you,ve got lots of operating interest there, and its not so big that it will take an age to get the scenics sorted, keep the updates coming! Cheers, Pete.
Looking good, one question, how do you intend to uncouple your wagons, and if you decide to do it automatically where will you put the uncoupling devices. Paul
Well, I am considering that! I have tried, without sucess, both kadee & Brian Kirby style magnetic uncoupling. I am thinking of either using uncoupling ramps or removing one of the coupling hooks from the wagons and just using a piece of wire to uncouple. The advantage with the latter is that the wagon doesn't need to be in a particular place. Any thoughts?
I have started converting over to Kadee type couplings but use neodyium magnets to uncouple Here is a link to another thread http://p1mrc.com/p1mrc/view_topic.php?id=81&forum_id=15 Paul
Hi Anthony, Kadees offer the advantage of uncoupling and loose shunting, which means you can place the wagon where ever you want, without coupling up as the couplers remain in the delayed position. Paul noted using the neodymium magnets, but Kadee offer the the No. 308 under track magnet, and the between the rails No.321 uncoupler. If you choose the 308, you will need to site this under the track, which means chiselling out some baseboard as these are about 6mm deep with the intensifying plate. You will also need to have the Kadee uncouplers on straight track. Kadees do not like uncoupling on curves, but you can loose shunt through them. This simple inglenook diagram below shows where the use of one delayed action uncoupler can be positioned o allow access to all sidings. Looking forward to the ongoing thread. Cheers, Gary. ps, I don't suppose one of the sidings is for Cream ??
Nice start Anthony many hours of fun on the way. I have also been a Kadee user for 35+ years and can Recomend them as a reliable coupling option. The Kadee option may be a little hit and miss with the curve before the point into the yards with regards to uncoupling and getting to the delayed action. However with the new Neodyiom Magnets you may be able to experiment with strong magnets to the inside of the curve to achieve reliable operation pulling the trip pin across evenly on the curve worth a try the as the magnets can be purchased nice and cheap now in many different shapes and sizes. Another option is to slightly rework the track alignment to get a straight section before the point long enough to get the Kadee uncoupler to work Looking forward to this progressinghttp://www.click
I've been keeping myself busy building the low-relief scalescenes factory and, as we've had some reasonable weather, I've been out in the garden. Did some running with a couple of old Hornby 0-4-0's and was okay, tried running with an Hornby 08 and it keeps derailing the wagons over the points. It seems that the buffers are catching and lifting the wagon off so I was thinking about fitting Dingham couplings. Any suggestions?
Hi Anthony if the 0-4-0's are working ok, then I would look at the 08s coupling especially the coupling height, you may need to fit the same type of tension lock coupling to the 08 as on the others. You may get away with retracting the buffers closer to the body. Paul
Hi Anthony If your using the original couplings on the Hornby 08, try taking the hook part off. The hook on the wagon should be enough to provide a decent coupling. I'm using the Brian Kirby method and all my locos are having the hooks removed. Seems to work ok. Ed
For a small inglenook set up, I would be looking at Kadees. I would imagine that there won't be a lot of rollingstock on the layout, so the outlay wouldn't break the bank. Cheers, Gary.
Thanks for rhe suggestions chaps, went for removing the hook as it was quickest and cheapest and it worked, Hooray! Might go the whole hog and attach some staples. Now I can back to building that low relief factory. regards Tony