I had a couple of point problems on Windrush. Mostly to do with frog polarity. But I've got it sorted by using Gaugemaster's Auto Frog DCC80 polarity switches. Very clever and easy to wire up, the switch detects the polarity of the incoming loco wheels and switches the frog to match and it works a treat. Highly recommended. Ron
I think it does that by if there is a short, switch the frog polarity, otherwise leave as is, it switches fast enough that the momentum of the loco carries it through, and must also be quick enough for the decoder to avoid a reset as it would when a dead spot is present and the voltage for the decoder drops too low. Jim
Tell me more... how do these work exactly ? how are they powered ? just wondering if they would be useful on some outdoor points I have on dads layout. being outdoors the point blades don't conduct the current as well as they do normally so the frog\V can fall dead after a while. andy
Hi Andy, these are sold for DCC use, is your dad's outside layout DC or DCC, in my experience these devices will not fix blade problems, are those points e.g. Electrofrog or Insulfrog, i.e. metal or plastic. Considering metal frogs only, as not necessary with plastic frogs. Scenario 1, DC, typically a siding is dead until powered from the track it branches off from via the blades, the blade sets the frog polarity and powers the siding from the frog, so no problem with frog polarity. If the blade contact with the stock rail is poor then blade, frog and siding will not be powered reliably. Scenario 2, DCC, both siding and the track it connects to are typically both live at all times as power is fed to both via droppers attached to a power bus, this would result in a permanent short circuit with an uninsulated metal frog. Considering Peco Electrofrog points with DCC, when the siding and main track are both powered the frog has to be isolated, usually via an insulated joiner at the exits from the frog and insulated from the blades either by cutting links on later versions or by cutting rails on older versions. Power is fed to the then insulated metal frog and polarity switched either by an external switch, e.g. on my railway either a microswitch activated by the moving tie, a slider switch that also provides the tie movement or in the case of point motors a switch attached to the point motor. Alternatively use electronic devices like 'juicers' units from Gaugemaster to polarity switch. They are not required for Insulfrog type points as the frog is non-conductive. Even so if the blade contact with the stock rail is poor then the blade alone will not be powered properly, e.g. even the weight of a loco on it can cause intermittant power loss through blade movement sideways or vertically. Some blades have wipers that can be tweaked, some rely on blade against stock rail, both types have their weaknesses. I think that it is unlikely that these devices will help with faulty powering of blades because travelling into the frog via the faulty blade may not generate the required short to trigger it to switch polarity and feeding power back from the frog will be blocked by the cut link or rail cut that isolates the blade from the frog anyway. A rather long answer I'm afraid Jim
As far as I'm aware, the Gaugemaster units are relay operated and will work with most systems, BUT (there's always a 'BUT' isn't there?) not with Lenz systems, so it'll depend on which DCC system you are using. "Tam Valley Frog juicers" are electronic units and switch polarity fast enough to avoid Lenz systems tripping out, whereas the Gaugemaster relay operated units don't switch the polarity fast enough on a Lenz system to avoid tripping out on short circuit. MERG (Model Electronic Railway Group) also do a kit similar in operation to the Tam Valley units, but you need to be a MERG member to purchase, and other makes may also be available. Keith.
I have tended to avoid these units as they are IMO an expensive opt out for actually wiring the frogs as I mentioned above, especially if you have a large number of points, personally the only place I would use them is on a reversing loop with a point sprung one way, however this is not easily implemented in 4mm scale due to the light weight of rollingstock. Manually wiring is not difficult, plenty of info available, it has been covered on this forum in recent times too, modifying old Peco Electrofrog points takes the time and effort. Jim
Hi Jim, I was most interested and did a Google as well.. We are DCC currently using the Gaugemaster hand held and wifi. one point is insul (due to be replaced as no idea how it was even fitted!!) and the other is electro. I think they may just help, although I wonder its value to me as straight at the end of the frog is an insul fish plate for the loops. I shall watch with interest. Andy