Thanks Paul, Unfortunately, this will be a slow build, so I hope you don`t nod off in the middle of it....... Gormo
That's a great video Paul. Interesting that he starts with dark colours and goes to light colours. Other weathering videos I have watched seem to always go from light to dark. Just proves there is always another way. Chris
Experimenting with a base colour for the corrugated roof and rust colours. Looking at this picture, I think I will add pastel powder as rust as well, fixed down with hairspray to seal the deal. Anyway these are refinements that can be added once the roof is on The main thing is the base colour for the moment and that comes from Bunnings and their mis-tint shelf.......in other words....paint colours that they have b*gg***d up. Gormo
Looks good so far Gormo. I have used acrylics for rusting to good effect. I apply the first base rust colour (burnt umber), then the use of raw sienna for the orange rust. These are blended together with a little water on the brush. The use of black in places mixed into the burnt umber gives you those darker rust spots. Alternatively, give the roof a spray with clear flat matt coat and allow to dry. Now with your powders or chalks, dip your paint brush into some isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and pick up some powders and apply to the model. The IPA will soften the clear coat and allow the powders to stick. When the IPA evaporates, the powders are locked into the clear coat. Work in sections and blend your colours or build them up in successive layers. Cheers, Gary.
Thanks for the tips Gary, Combining them with the video that Paul put up, I should be able to create a reasonable impression of a rusty, soot covered corrugated roof...... Mr Metcalfe would be so disappointed to see what I`m doing to his model..... Anyhoo......the model moves on The roof sections have had two coats of the base coat And I`ve started putting wall sections together and considering how I will cloak them in Scalescenes paper. As we plod along through our injuries and ailments here a Gormo Central HQ, the days are following our new routines and I`m finding a couple of hours a day to spend on modelling and a bit of forum watching. Not every day allows this but it`s nice to have a bit of escapism in the mix, which is what this hobby does for me. More as it happens Gormo
Just you remember you have a missus to keep an eye on ( and likewise ) I'm glad we are providing a bit light relief but take it easy and pace yourself buddy. Toto
Work progresses slowly, The front wall of the engine shed has received a covering of Scalescenes brick paper. The louvered vent has been fitted and a new lintel fitted with some mods not shown in this pic. Before and after Then onto the walls......here we see a partially converted wall awaiting lintels and sills etc. and a further brick layer that will go on top of this one. Behind the scenes.....never to be seen again. Lintels fitted More as it happens Gormo
Coming along nicely Gormo. What a huge difference the Scalescnes paper is to the regular 'run of the mill' Metcalfe print. Cheers, Gary.
Yes I think so Gary, The kit itself has good bones.......very solid well thought out construction, however I think Mr. Metcalfe needs to go that extra few yards and add paper prints of roof slates as an alternative to the printed roof that you find in all his kits. The slates when added in strips make a huge difference. The other thing is the colour of the bricks in the kits......fair enough for a quick build for a train set, but for those wanting to build a model railway, they would be more tempted by the Scalescenes kits. As I said ...the kits have good bones and with a little modification, they come up rather well. So I guess I`m building a Metscenes or a Scalecalfe kit here..... Gormo
A little tip for those of you who use stick glues to apply brick papers etc. If you need to apply more than one sheet of paper to your kit, or in other words, butt one sheet of brick paper up to the next one, apply masking tape across the end or edge of the paper that is already stuck down. Only rub it down along the edge, no need to rub the whole tape down as it may make it harder to remove. This allows you too apply the glue stick to the card without overlapping glue onto your previous piece. Once the glue is applied, remove the masking tape and fit your new piece of brick paper. Sometimes this is not practical and it may be far better to apply glue to the paper instead. Anyway it`s something new I`ve tried and it works well, so I place it here for your information. Gormo
Nice tip Gormo. You could just apply the glue to the paper and not the card stock. The glue stick is forgiving until it is pressed into place firmly. I learnt a trick from Doug (YMRC) where you overlap the two sheets marginally and then cut a line down the centre. Once the cut is made, you peel off the top two layers, leaving a crisp straight line between the sheets. I have used this method quite a few times in the past and it works well. Cheers, Gary.
Well folks, I`ve decided to line the inner roof of the engine shed. As it comes with the kit, it is grey card, fair enough, who`s going to see it.?.....nobody probably, but I will know it`s there and if I don`t do something about it now, I may regret it further down the track. I also intend to fit internal lighting to the shed, so night photography may be compromised with a flat grey card inner roof, and the illusion of, hopefully resembling something real, will be gone. So I downloaded a free texture of beaten up corrugated iron roofing and assembled it in LibreDraw thereby creating a sheet that could be printed out and applied to the inner roof. This is my basic sheet.....it fits half of the roof, so two sheets required. The prints are sealed with Matt Spray Sealer first and then cut to shape. Just laying it on the roof here to see whether I need to fold it down the middle or not......Not required......just glue it accurately in place. I cut out generous clearances to allow the side flaps ( required for accurate positioning ) to fold over without distorting the printed sheet And this is what it looks like glued down with window apertures cut out. I tried a test fit under the main roof and realized that the window apertures in the main ( top ) roof are smaller, therefore showing a strip of grey card when looking through from underneath. So I will fit some printed corrugated paper to the underside of the main roof where the card is visible. Once you start tinkering and modifying kits, solving one problem creates another...... However.......I have plenty of time......the problem is no big deal and I will attend to it.......we`ll get there in the end. More as it happens Gormo
Gormo, that looks good so far. Could I suggest that you print off some timber strips that can be glued to the exposed area. This will give the impression of some framing under the corrugated iron. Cheers, Gary.
Yes Gary, Good idea.......actually it`s been on the radar, however they will have to wait till I get the roof trusses and the inner roof fitted. They will need to be fitted between the trusses rather than on them, otherwise the roof will sit too high. This is the problem with modifications, the building can`t be built as a real building would be built, because of the way the kit is designed, therefore a bit of Black Magic is required to suggest that the beams were there all the time. This building mod is all about the roof.....the rest of it is easy...... Gormo