Kernow Bulleid 10203 - My how to remove the body for decoder fitting

Discussion in 'DCC Control' started by Jim Freight, Sep 14, 2019.

  1. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    After discussion with SRman I confirmed there was no other lugs or screws holding this body on the chassis, and gently prising apart is not the most likely technique, carefully is the watchword.

    The big issue was what to grip, body covered in detail, and an almost flat underside, so it sat on my worktop today. After a few ponders the thought came to mind, could I insert a hook through the chassis openings where the bogie gear towers pass through, and whilst gently holding the body in a Peco servicing cradle pull the chassis out of the body.

    The answer was yes, effort was more firm than gently. I used a metalwork scriber, working around the chassis apertures at both ends easing the chassis out a bit at a time, the attached images should be self explanatory.

    Hope this will be of help to others, I'm happy to answer questions and comments, Jim

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    Last edited: Feb 24, 2024
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  2. SRman

    SRman Full Member

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    That was a good idea, Jim. Why couldn't I think of doing that? :scratchchin:
     
  3. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Thanks for your input :tophat:
     
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  4. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    I hold onto expired or unwanted 'loyalty cards' which I find are useful for slipping down the sides of loco bodies reluctant to part with their chassis, also works with coach bodies if you intend fitting lighting/ passengers etc as it holds the body away from the retaining lugs. When I fitted a decoder to my own 10203, the body came off without much difficulty, but that's not always the case.
    Keith.
     
  5. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Yes Keith, I too find those cards are useful for releasing lugs on bodies (on a Heljan Pk Royal railbus recently it was essential), including other electronic items such as cordless phones etc, My 10203's body was certainly reluctant to come off after a year between buying and removal, I think it is often paint sticking as it hardens. Jim
     
  6. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    After some real fun and games with this loco I have found the reason for the body sticking, as it was just as reluctant to refitting. It is due to poor factory assembly.

    The casting supporting the factory fitted speaker is not square with the chassis, it leans and 'gently' scrapes against the body mounting pillars sufficient to force the body slightly to one end. I will fix this if I ever have to dismantle it again.

    On top of this the cab lights did not work at one end, the series LEDs on my loco are badly hand soldered, the defective SMD (surface mount device) R8 actually had the electrical contact missing from one end :facepalm:. Obviously something else not tested before packing.

    Considering the cost of this loco was nearly £170 pre-ordered this really was not good enough, although I DC tested it on receipt it has been some 15 months later that I have got around to fitting a decoder, so obviously well out of warranty.

    Having just about got used to the atrocious prototypical primrose roof colour (should have waited for the grey roofed version) it is otherwise a fine model and running looks promising.
     

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