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Discussion in 'Planks, Switching and Shelf Layouts' started by cmcan, Jun 14, 2016.

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  1. Oct 30, 2016 #161
    cmcan

    cmcan Full Member

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    Hi Gormo,

    Just a quick question regards to powering your LEDS on your traverser fiddle yard.

    I understand about using resistors, LEDs and voltage.

    My question is are you using the same voltage source that powers the tracks for your LEDs or are you using a different power source? How did you wire things?

    Regards

    Cameron
     
  2. Mar 4, 2017 #162
    cmcan

    cmcan Full Member

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    Hi everyone,

    It has been a very busy 6 months.

    Ive spent the last 3 months building a model of the HMAS Sydney III, for my dad's 80th birthday and recording a rendition of Highland cathedral with not a bagpipe to be heard.

    I can now return my attention model railways.

    I have a maintenance question. I bought a diesel engine that is powered by a mashima engine with gear cogs on both sides of the motor, with the cogs attached to both bogies.

    It needs a lube given its age

    Do i lube the motor or the gears or both

    Any advice? I have the peco lube, i know to be careful about the lubes you use ie dont use wd40.

    Cameron
     
  3. Mar 4, 2017 #163
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Sorry, can't help you there but some advice will be along shortly I'm sure.

    Toto
     
  4. Mar 4, 2017 #164
    Ron

    Ron Full Member

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    Hi Cameron, seems you have thr right lube. I only oil the gear mesh, the axles and the crank pins, then run in for 30 mins. Should be OK then :)
    CheersRon
     
  5. Mar 4, 2017 #165
    jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Cameron, as Ron says, lube the gears axle bearings etc, on the motor there are small bearings at each end where the motor shafts come out, you can put a tiny amount of oil on these, the tip of a pin go'es a long way.

    Cheers, Pete.
     
  6. Mar 4, 2017 #166
    SMR CHRIS

    SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Cameron

    The mech is probably a K&M and you lightly oil the gear surface and the gear bearing surfaces.
    The Mashima motor is ok too lightly oil the bearing at each end of the motor barrel just the slightest amount here as flooding with too much oil can get inside on the brushes, but these bronze bushes do need lubrication.
     
  7. Mar 4, 2017 #167
    cmcan

    cmcan Full Member

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    Thanks everyone, ill give it a go this afternoon
     
  8. Mar 7, 2017 #168
    cmcan

    cmcan Full Member

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    Hi everyone

    The lubing went well.

    My Lima 44 class runs smooth and quiet
    The k&m mechanism runs smooth and quieter

    Very happy

    Cameron
     
  9. Mar 7, 2017 #169
    SMR CHRIS

    SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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    cmcan wrote:
    Good result Cameron

    The K&M Mech will never be quiet
    Have a listen to the one in my hybrid Lima/K&M 42207
    Link to video
    https://youtu.be/TW9_vVW-Ucc
     
  10. Mar 7, 2017 #170
    Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    SMR CHRIS wrote:
    ...and here I was thinking how prototypical the sound is in the 422...! :avatar::avatar:

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  11. Mar 7, 2017 #171
    cmcan

    cmcan Full Member

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    Chris

    I saw the videos the other day

    Are those wagons weighted? Its got some pulling power

    Cameron
     
  12. Mar 7, 2017 #172
    SMR CHRIS

    SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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    Gary wrote:
    I did put in a title that said it didn't need a sound decoder due to its own noise:avatar:

    cmcan wrote:
    Hi Cameron
    The wagons aren't heavy at 77grams each but with 28 it's nearly 2.2kilo Grams it's not so much the weight but the rolling resistance and these roll really well.
    42207 just gets the train up the Helix with a bit of wheel slip.
    An Austrians 80 class will walk up the Helix with out even changing speed or slipping.
    I could add some weight to the 422 as it is a little light however I'm building a second 422 with K&M Mech at the moment so double heading I think will be the go.
     
  13. Apr 27, 2017 #173
    cmcan

    cmcan Full Member

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    Hi Everyone

    Progress at last

    I am going build and install the back scene framework this weekend - similar to what Gary did with industry lane but using mdf instead of foamcore (maybe next time).

    I was going to paint it blue and then fit the backscene over it.

    Any suggestions on colour, type of paints to use?

    Apart from fluoro pink any other suggestions

    :hammer:

    Cameron
     
  14. Apr 27, 2017 #174
    Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    I'm guessing that you have purchased a backscene already ?? If so, I would recommend gluing the backscene directly to the MDF back board with wall paper paste. This is available in little satchels from Bunnings, Mitre 10 etc...

    If you have to paint (aerosol) the backscene blue, choose a very pale blue. If you cannot buy a very pale blue, get the next best thing. Whilst the blue paint is still wet, mist it over with white paint.

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  15. Apr 27, 2017 #175
    cmcan

    cmcan Full Member

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    Gary

    Acrylic house hold paint?

    Cameron
     
  16. Apr 27, 2017 #176
    SMR CHRIS

    SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Cameron good to hear your making some progress.

    With the house paint your best to use a roller to apply as you can get a nice flat Finish I originally painted the internals of Moonan Flats box with a light sky blue colour from Bunnings and a small 4" detail roller I think the little pack with paint roller tray 2 rollers was about $9 and it did a great job Used one roller for the Blue paint and the other for the Black fascia paint.

    Gary's suggestion of misting the White over the Blue is to remove the uniform look of the blue.
     
  17. Apr 28, 2017 #177
    cmcan

    cmcan Full Member

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    Hi All

    I spent the afternoon building the frames for the backboard

    Will need to trim the mdf back boards or buy a 2 meter piece of mdf to fit. They are just held in with clamps to give me an idea of space

    Will need to rethink some buildings

    Will glue the led strips to the beam above the layout
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Onwards and upwards now

    Cameron
     
  18. Apr 28, 2017 #178
    Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    That is some serious height in the back scene ! :eek:

    I would recommend fitting it all out, just to besure it is all good to go, but go about painting it off the layout. Saves making a mess and the paint will be much more consistent when painting on a flat surface (out doors ?).

    As for misting with the white paint, it is a way of dulling down the blue paint if you think that the blue is far too deep in colour. :thumbup:

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  19. Apr 28, 2017 #179
    ed

    ed Full Member

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    As Gary says, does look a bit high Cameron.

    That said, mines only 200mm (8") and I think now it's too low.

    Ed
     
  20. Apr 28, 2017 #180
    cmcan

    cmcan Full Member

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    Hi Gary

    Thanks.

    The back scene is 30cm high, 2.01m long and 29.5cm wide

    I was surprised how thin the pine was and light it was when completed. It only needs a few braces and it is very sturdy. The foamcore would have added next to zero weight on industry lane

    Off to bunnings tommorrow to get a one piece mdf to fit.

    Ill use the leftovers for a future micro layout.

    Will be painting out the front. It was bad enough using styrene cement building a model of the HMAS Sydney for dad

    Cameron
     
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