Lola's end

Mark Newton wrote:

Evidently much loved by the crews.

 

Interesting idea with the traverser Cameron. Will you be using drawer slides to roll the traverser on ?

They are available at Bunnings and reasonably cheap :
https://www.bunnings.com.au/our-range/building-hardware/door-window-gate-hardware/cabinet/drawer-slides

Cheers, Gary.

edit : I wouldn't use the plastic drawer slides, cheap and nasty.

 

From my experience, I'd go for heavy duty drawer runners, and if you fancy automating it, I'll send you the circuit diagrams, arduino programs etc etc, that may be of use.

Either way, manual or motor driven its best to have two points of drive (either two handles for manual or mechanical connections) as far apart as possible. Pushing/pulling from the middle tends to twist especially when you get more locos at one end.

Good luck with the build, and any help / advice please ask - it might even be useful

Paul

 

G`day Cameron,

I built a manual traverser.

I used drawer runners.....I have a handle at each end and an indexing system to lock the tracks in place once in position.

Two handles definitely gives a more even push / pull on the traverser table but you still have to be gentle with it.

I think the threaded rod and nut systems, whether manual or motorized, would give the best results. A threaded rod at each end would do it, however I feel they would have to connected in some way to avoid one travelling further than the other.??

Here` some links to old videos I did when I was building my version....it may give some ideas.??

Video 1

Video 2

Video 3

http://www.clickGormo

 

Hi Cameron

If you're using DC then each track will need some form of isolation, you can combine the track feed with the locking mechanisim - ala Toto's Luib Bridge

http://p1mrc.com/p1mrc/view_post.php?post_id=15554

For DCC all tracks can be powered all the time.

The same type of manual bolt lock can be used wether or not it transmits power.

On Viccy Road, I used inexpensive GT2 timming belts and pulleys to connect the two screwed rods, the same could be done for a manual method with a handle to turn for the drive.

Paul

 

Then again Cameron, you could use a sector plate...

http://www.platform1mrc.com/view_post.php?post_id=3022

Cheers, Gary.

 

G`day Cameron,
Should have pointed out that I am using DC / Analogue for a start. Paul has suggested the DCC arrangement, however I will try and explain what I`ve done.
Power from the board controller is fed to all tracks on the board via switches on the board control panel.
To power a track you turn it`s switch on. In theory you could turn all the switches on and all tracks would be powered.....chaos in other words!!!!
The tracks on the traverser are protected with physical barriers at each end. Therefore no trains can fall on the floor or run off the ends and consequently no need for electrical cut out protection on the traverser itself.
The end tracks for loco storage, on the other hand, have a further switch incorporated in the wiring to the track. These are micro switches which are operated when the locking pin for the index system passes through a hole for each track. The micro switch breaks the circuit for that track until a release road is in place and therefore until the index plate locking bolt has passed through it`s hole and pressed the micro switch.
Therefore locos in the storage section cannot move until they have a road on the traverser in place to move onto.
I have micro switches at each end of the board. One end controls loco safety as mentioned above and the other end`s switches operate LED indicator lights for the control panel so that I know which track has a through road basically.
I hope that makes sense......don`t hesitate to ask further if required.
http://www.clickGormo.
PS....yes I built the throttle from a very simple circuit diagram. It works quite well but needs a big heatsink on the back to take the heat away. Older locos warm it up a bit.

 

Hi Cameron

You could use a rotary switch - several versions available 12 way single pole, 6 way two pole, 4 way 3pole and 3 way 4 pole.

For the traverser if you had 6 or less tracks I'd go for the 6 way 2 pole, using 1 pole for the track feed, the other for track indication.

Paul

 

Personally, I believe in the KISS principle, keep it simple stu.... Well, that's what I keep telling myself !

The sector plate I built for another layout (Kelly Bray) had three storage sidings which were individually powered using a rotary switch purchased from Jaycar. I wired the rotary switch using every second contact, that way I had a 'stop safe' between each movement of the switch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wcP7DFO-9sM



Cheers, Gary.

 

Yes, Colin Buchanan is what my boys were listening to when I recorded the video ! I does come over quite clearly !!

Cheers, Gary.

 

G`day Cameron,

Here`s the link to the throttle project. It`s well explained and detailed with pictures and cheap to build.

http://home.iprimus.com.au/nuggles58/Making%20A%20Basic%20DC%20Controller.pdf

I would recommend you use the heat sink as well. I didn`t put it on at first, however I did eventually.

http://www.clickGormo