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Lola's end

Discussion in 'Planks, Switching and Shelf Layouts' started by cmcan, Jun 14, 2016.

Page 6 of 14
  1. Jul 12, 2016 #101
    SMR CHRIS

    SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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    cmcan wrote:
    Great news Cameron on the LED's turning up.:thumbs:

    Aus Post is nowhere at the moment I currently have a parcel that is on tour between Bundaberg Qld, to Sydney NSW, back to Bundaberg Qld, :mad::mad::mad:now some where in-between with Aus post trying to get it back to NSW could be another week or two :mad: I was told on the phone this morning trying to find it, it's just not good service, time to move to couriers like Fast-way for everything I think Door to Door and seem to be cheaper now than the post.

    Looking forward to your results with the lighting :thumbs:

    If you find a local supplier for the board let us know.
     
  2. Jul 12, 2016 #102
    cmcan

    cmcan Full Member

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    Chris,

    I'll keep you posted on the card - I am considering just buying 1mm sheets and laminating them when I need 2mm. Although I am stocking up on the cornflakes boxes. Came in handy for patchwork on the platform sides.

    Re: the LEDS. any ideas on how high above the layout I should put them. I was looking at moonan flat construct pictures for ideas.

    Cameron
     
  3. Jul 12, 2016 #103
    SMR CHRIS

    SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Cameron
    The LED's in your area could be mounted on a section of wood/ lighting pelmet hung on chain via hooks from the beams above that way you could adjusted the hight as required would be a quick solution. The upside down "L" shaped pelmet shields the eyes from the direct light and when working on the layout you could adjust down closer to give you more light.
    I have done this with baton Fluro's in the past the metal link chain is sold by Bunnings and is really cheap and adjustable due to the link style just make sure you hang the chain link the right way
    https://www.bunnings.com.au/zenith-2-0mm-zinc-plated-single-link-jack-chain_p4218839
     
  4. Jul 13, 2016 #104
    cmcan

    cmcan Full Member

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    Chris Thanks for that, I'll get started soon on the lighting. I'll look at a flexible system. I am considering extending the layout around the corner in the future.

    Gary, thanks for the card websites. I kept looking for greyboard and all I got were UK websites. I looked at those websites but was unsure about the thickness of some of the card.

    BTW I heard you were the Cornflake box king when it comes to building some of these models.( I could of misheard, I blame loud music).

    Cameron
     
  5. Jul 13, 2016 #105
    SMR CHRIS

    SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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    cmcan wrote:
    No Cameron, not the same Gary, the Gary I was talking to you about is more local to us on the Coast.
    This is one he did completely from corn flakes packs laminated together this is O scale.

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  6. Jul 13, 2016 #106
    SMR CHRIS

    SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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    And on the inside ready for "breakfast":avatar:

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  7. Jul 13, 2016 #107
    cmcan

    cmcan Full Member

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    I like it!
     
  8. Jul 19, 2016 #108
    cmcan

    cmcan Full Member

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    Hi everyone,

    More progress on the layout.

    I have finished the main platform. Using Scalescenes platform kit. Simple but fiddly in long stretches
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I will finish the rest of the platform when I have the finished the buildings - the mail siding and the medium station building (just started).

    Here's my progress with the mail siding buildings

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The next attempt with be transforming the pc power supply into the power source for my led layout lighting
     
  9. Jul 19, 2016 #109
    Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Looks like you have combined the Industrial A Warehouse with the free Low Relief Warehouse. Looking good. I too have used the Industrial A Warehouse kit and will do once again with my Townstreet Competition plank. I will say that it too will be heavily kit bashed. ;)

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  10. Jul 19, 2016 #110
    cmcan

    cmcan Full Member

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    Thanks Gary

    I still have few things to go to finish them off.

    But they are complete enough to start finalisng th e rest of the platform

    Cameron
     
  11. Jul 19, 2016 #111
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    but certainly look like candidates for the competition
     
  12. Jul 19, 2016 #112
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Yep,

    And possibly win some goodies :avatar::tophat:
     
  13. Jul 20, 2016 #113
    cmcan

    cmcan Full Member

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    HI
    Today's topic is fun with soldering irons. Nope. Didn't burn myself today but came close.

    I have built and the tested the PC Power supply change into variable voltage tester.

    Notes to Paul: I would have preferred a bigger enclosure it would have made things easier but you go with what you've got sometimes.

    [​IMG]

    Top Row - 12v(measures just under on the multimeter), 5v, 3v
    Second row - Ground, -5v, -3v

    I messed up the switch and LEDs - but it works. LED - power to the box.
    Switch to the right turns fan off but no power to the pole pieces.
    Switch to the left turns the fan and power on to the pole pieces.
    Like So
    [​IMG]
    That is just one row of LEDS (Thanks Gary for the tip)

    Questions for the lighting pelmet.

    I will split the LEDS into two rows (12 per row). When I turn the lights of one row is not bright enough.

    Does anyone have any thoughts on more or less etc.

    Chris - I will look at using your idea for an adjustable height (A trip to Bunnings)

    Cameron
     
  14. Jul 20, 2016 #114
    Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    I have soldered wires to connect two strips of these led lights together and run them off an old train transformer/controller (throttle ?). I have used this set up at home and at exhibitions. One good point about using the train controller is that I can brighten/dim the lights when required.

    The lights set up on Linden Ford.

    [​IMG]

    Above : It does look blue as I purchased cool white, not knowing how cold the light is. I will say when the layout has been exhibited in other unnatural light, it tends not to be as blue.

    Below : The transformer/controller I use.

    [​IMG]

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  15. Jul 20, 2016 #115
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    The lighting effect is very good and sympathetic towards the layout Gary. Rather than being full on and blinding. It highlights the softer tones of the scenics. :thumbs:
     
  16. Jul 20, 2016 #116
    SMR CHRIS

    SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Cameron
    Nice work with the power supply going to be a handy little unit.

    If when the second row of LED's turns on the lights are not bright enough the output of the power supply may not be supplying enough Amps, 12 volts may be ok but if they draw a bit too much current (Amps) for the supply it may be pulling down with 4 rows of lights in my layout it pulls a couple of amps worth noting that I have the strips with double the Number of LED's on then though and a 6 amp power supply.
    On initial power up my lighting rig pulls 4.8 amps and settles to 2.8 - 3.4 depending on how hot the day is.

    The hight above the layout also makes a big differance as the output of the LED's whilst looking very bright as a whole in most cases don't actually push the light very far without some sort of lense Fitted some thing to do with the light spectrum and the cyclic duty of them same reason they often look like they flash when filmed. All a bit to much science for me, if it's not bright enough just add more :avatar::avatar::giggle:
     
  17. Jul 21, 2016 #117
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Nice job Cameron.

    I think my donor power supply looks very similar, unfortunately its approx 15mm deeper than my base board depth, so I will have to mount it above board.

    When using the old type transformer based power suppies, it may be worth using a voltage regulator to keep the voltage to the 12v. My old duette can often provide over 15v on the 12v dc out.

    I've yet to play with the lighting strips, still playing with tne underside, but hopefully soon will see the light :avatar:

    Paul
     
  18. Jul 21, 2016 #118
    cmcan

    cmcan Full Member

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    Hi Paul,

    The voltage check for 12v came to just under 12v - 11.something. I'll see how 4 strips go (2 rows of 2).

    The project was challenging more so cutting and fitting the wires into the box. If I were to do it again, I would create an external panel to wire things up to. It would be easier.

    The LEDS strips are easy to separate and wire up. I will get onto that a little bit later. I need to build a station building at the moment.

    Cameron
     
  19. Jul 22, 2016 #119
    cmcan

    cmcan Full Member

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    Hi everyone What a week. I have some LEDs up in the roof (2 rows of 2 led strips - powered from an old PC power supply).

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    I put a comparison photo with the fluro's on and the led's. I will finalise the positions and panels for the power later. Paul - I have reviewed the PC Power supply conversion. I have done 2. One from the video you supplied. I liked the idea but it was a pain in the body part you sit on. there was a better option I saw one guy using terminal strips to connect LEDs for the different voltages on top of the box

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWnS-SwFwrw

    The idea wasn't bad but a simpler less fiddly idea comes from here:

    http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/blog/convert-atx-psu-to-bench-supply.html

    You start with the 20 Pin molex connector and take what you need. If you need more 12, 5 or 3 volt supply cut the appropriate colour wire and add it to the relevant terminal strip. I think it might be easier to managed than the everything come through one pole. I'm done soldering for now

    Cameron
     
  20. Jul 22, 2016 #120
    gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    G`day Cameron,

    Coming along nicely.:thumbup:

    Your lighting may indeed look a bit different when you get a backscene on your layout. I am guessing the brick wall is absorbing some of the light to give you a false impression of the end result.

    The backscene will reflect a good deal of light. My train room originally was not lined. I have four lights in the room and it looked dim until the room was lined and painted. So reflected light can make a huge difference.

    Keep up the good work :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

    http://www.click:tophat:Gormo
     
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