Out to the shed and Garden in O gauge

Discussion in 'Members Personal Layouts' started by Brian A, Jan 22, 2020.

  1. Brian A

    Brian A Full Member

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    The first task on my agenda was to start cleaning out the big garage. We moved in nearly 5 years ago and stuff was just dumped on shelves in the garage. I did build a loft in the garage about 4 years ago and it was full of crap as well.

    So a mate and I got stuck into a serious clean up and donation of crap to the council cleanup. Removing everything from the loft was task 1. Then work on shelving. The reorganisation involves moving 7 of the prefabricated multi level shelves. One went to the loft, 2 were split in half and put on the other wall. The remaining 4 are now getting there crap sorted and will be turned through 90 degrees. Then I need to rearrange about 6 sets of wheels and tyres and move a hydraulic press. IMG_2356.JPG
    It's great I can see stuff in the loft!!!!

    IMG_2354.JPG
    Relocated shelving from the corner.

    The plan should result in a 11m wall being free for the internal storage.


    IMG_2355.JPG
    2m Free, 9 more to go!!!

    The revised plan for the loops in the desert were thrown a curved ball by the boss. She declared they were too high near the fence and the cat could jump onto the fence and escape. So a revised plan has been done, I was able to move the track a metre from the fence and lower it by 300mm. Approved!!!

    Desert V2.jpeg
    The white track is a double track mainline. The blue track is a return loop to allow trains to be turned around. Both these go to the lower storage level.
    The yellow track is the track to the future upper terminus.
    The red line is where the layout will fold so there is more room while backing the trailer in.
    Two small gates to allow access and a couple of steps to make it easy to step over the layout.

    I also trailed a WiFi extender to see if I could get coverage over the whole range of the railway for using the Z21 app to drive trains. This was successful.

    Lots of research going on including connecting Railroad and co to the DR5000 on Z21 protocol, another success.

    Revised the storage plan to include a 4.5m traverser, which will be controller by Railroad and co. Unfortunately RR&Co will only operate a single track traverser, lots of people, including me, have tried to get around this limitation with no success. So a 1 track traverser it will be. My current traverser only takes 6 second to cover 4 tracks, so 1 track shouldn't be a limitation.
    Garden Storage V2.jpeg
    Traverser to service 8 tracks, and a bypass track for when the traverser is not available.
    The storage goes for another 4metres down.

    Also looking into distance for boosters, sensors etc. The layout will be about 76m long. Any advice on what people do for DCC boosters etc.

    Anyway progress has started with the clean up.

    Cheers

    Brian
     
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  2. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Looks like a great plan Brian.
    ( my choice would have been to flog the trailer , give the cat away, and seek a good lawyer :avatar::thumbs:)

    Re the booster. On Ralph’s layout he has the NCE 5amp system operating his garage and storage and then a booster with its own power supply added to the outdoor sections bus wire.
    The bus wire is split into a “T” formation to keep the length of the bus as short as possible. So looking at your plan, where you run the bus wire outdoors we split the bus three ways, so one would cover the run around your trailer, one straight ahead and stopped half way around the loop and the third line to the right hand line on your plan (hope that makes sense)
    Power loss from booster to the furthest point on the track, virtually zero, bus wires, from memory 20m (we also installed snubbers on each bus. - https://www.ncedcc.com/online-store/NCE-Snubber-2-pack-p88184430)

    Kim
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2020
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  3. bobcom52

    bobcom52 Full Member

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    Hi Brian, a extra booster is only required if you are needing more current at any one time than the existing system can handle. Length of run is not the determinant. That is taken care of by using an appropriate size of bus wire to feed the track to its furthest reaches.
    Whilst I have an extra booster now for running any current hungry US type mech that might turn up, my Digitrax Zephyr at 2.5A capacity comfortably runs my layout with several sound fitted locos operating at one time.
    cheers
    Bob
     
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  4. Brian A

    Brian A Full Member

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    Not ready to sell the trailer yet, still have the need for speed!!! The lawyer would cost more than any proposed trains so will keep the cat!!!

    Thanks good advice as always. There is another 40metres to go after the end of that plan. Ill probably end up running 3 boosters,
    1. one for storage and the desert area,
    2. one for the outside terminus and back wall section
    3. upper level in garage and any future extension inside the garage. Lots of longer term plans post cars and trailers.

    Each booster will probably have a couple of buses going in opposite directions. Getting power to the outside terminus will require a visit by the electrician.

    Cheers
    Brian
     
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  5. Brian A

    Brian A Full Member

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    Thanks Bob, always good to hear what others are experiencing.

    I recently acquired a couple of the new DCC Concepts Alpha meters and put one on both the current O and OO layouts. The O gauge with 5 sound locos pulls a maximum of 2 amps. Trying to have 5 locos moving on the shelf layout simultaneously was a real juggling act. However no real load and they aren't pulling 8 Mk1s up a 1:40 slope around a 2m radius curve.

    IMG_2350.JPG
    Standing load with 5 locos stationary with a pair of B Set with lights on.

    The 00 with 11 trains running was pulling nearly 3 amps (5 of those were sound fitted).
    IMG_2352.JPG
    2.4 amps was pretty standard for the 00 with anything from 5 to 11 trains running under RR&Co. Peak was just under 3 amps. This system has a 5 amp LENZ system with no boosters, i run PSX short circuit boards which split it into 5 power districts, one for a points bus.

    The DR5000 is a 3 amp system and with each of the boosters putting out 3 amps, so it should be fine for the O gauge. I will do a test track with a 5m x 2m curve and a 5m straight and borrow some Mk1s off Chris and see what can pull what up what slope. Test will happen probably in May/June. I am away for March and most of April.

    Cheers

    Brian
     
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  6. Brian A

    Brian A Full Member

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    So went on holiday just after the last post, and was in the Caribbean on a Princess cruise ship when the world went crazy. Princess got us home into isolation followed by lockdown.

    Been looking at options for the curved sections of the outside area. With the amount of curves I am envisioning, I was having nightmares of building the curves using the Steel stud ladder as used by Ralph. I was reading an outdoor railway magazine and found reference to using a product called Flex-C Trac. Found it is available in Australia, and also found someone in QLD who had used it for a gauge 1 curved track.

    So I have bought 4 lengths in two different sizes to setup a test track, my curves are also inclines so the test track will test load capacity of my locos going up a 1:30 grade around a 2m radius curve.

    So the plan is to build a few curves in the the two sizes and one using both sizes together to see if that adds stiffness. My aim is to get posts about 1.5m apart.

    IMG_2572.JPG
    The Flex-C Track, very easy to make the curves. Has Tabs underneath that you hit with a hammer to lock into position.

    IMG_2573.JPG
    Set a 2m radius curve.

    IMG_2574.JPG
    Had to avoid a new hazard while working, the lawn cigar.

    IMG_2575.JPG
    Just using bricks for temporary placement. Added some track. Next was to determine how wide I want the villaboard base board so add some locos and rolling stock.


    IMG_2576.JPG
    Trains look good in the sun.

    IMG_2577.JPG IMG_2579.JPG
    The Flex C is 92mm wide so will go with 120mm wide villaboard and add a side for loco retention if have a derailment.

    Good first day out in the winter sun.

    Cheers

    Brian
     
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  7. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Interesting product Brian, never seen or heard of it before :thumbs:
     
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  8. Brian A

    Brian A Full Member

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    So more work today, was pouring rain this morning but cleared in the afternoon. Decided to lock the 4 large Flex_c into the 2m radius curves. You lay them on their back and hit the tabs with a hammer.

    IMG_2591.JPG

    Once the angle is set you hit the tabs visible with a FBH. That locks the curve in place.

    IMG_2590.JPG

    They recommend doing in on concrete, as no concrete in the desert, I tried doing it on a brick. Brick didn't fare well. Then carried them over to the path and hit them on concrete. Took about an hour to lock the four big Tracs to 2m radius, 45 minutes measuring and remeasuring and marking a template on the concrete, followed by 2 minutes with the hammer each section. You can carry them after that and they don't move.

    IMG_2589.JPG

    Rough placement for the test track, will be two tracks, one elevated the other flat. Will be a straight section leading into the curves. These sections will be reusable in the final plan.

    Need to join the 2 tracs together.
    Will get some villaboard and glue tomorrow.

    Cheers

    Brian
     
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  9. Brian A

    Brian A Full Member

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    Ralph or Kim, what is the grade on the slope on Ralph's layout and do you need the banker or was it just for operational interest. What sort of length trains can negate the slope?

    Cheers

    Brian
     
  10. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Brian, I think it’s just under 2 %, I’ll check with Ralph.
    If you have a look at the videos we’ve posted, you’ll see all trains run up it ok. Obviously the Heljans don’t skip a beat due to their weight and twin engines, so large rakes are no problem. We’ve had a 7 coach train go up without any issues.
    Steam locos do slow down a little but none have needed a banker.
    We have done a banking session with the Lickey banker 9F and Ralph’s black 5, but only for effect.
    The poorest runner seems to be Ralph’s Royal Scot which defiantly needs some weight added to it.
    Apart from my 7 coach train I think the heaviest train will be the hopper train and the fuel oil train.

    might be a good video to make to see what can be pulled up the bank before the 9F comes to the rescue.

    Banker video.



    Mixed running



    cheers Kim
     
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  11. Brian A

    Brian A Full Member

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    Thanks Kim,

    My steepest grade will be a 2.5% but going around a 2m radius curve. I am hoping to get 8 Mk1 behind the A3/A4 and the Heljan 37 (dont own that yet). Will do a test on the new test track hopefully in a couple of weeks.

    Yes I had watched your videos. I am assuming that the curve in the mixed running is just after the climb.

    Cheers Brian
     
  12. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Yes the long curve is the only level section of track other than approx three meters after the station. :thumbs:
     
  13. Brian A

    Brian A Full Member

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    Well doesn't time fly when you aren't paying attention, 18 months since my last update.

    There has been some progress on the garden and garage. Firstly managed to get the area where the storage yard is to be located cleared. I have built an 11m (36ft) x 0.8m(2.6ft) storage yard to goes the full length of the second garage. Due to the shortage of PECO track for most of the last 18 months I have only populated half of the track. But I did install a Lenz turntable.
    IMG_3360.JPG IMG_3356.JPG

    I also decided to go battery remote control for the garden layout, so I looked at lots of different technology and decided to go with WiFiTracks, which as you can guess by the name, uses WiFi to control the locos and the points in the garden. I have since got on converting 9 O gauge locos to battery power, from a 14XX (battery in the autocoach) and a couple panniers to several diesels and a Hattons A3. WiFiTracks is based in Australia about an hour for my place so that has helped. The attached photo showed the battery and WiFi install in a Dapol Pannier.
    IMG_3131.JPG

    Then there was lots of testing with temporary track placed around the garden to ensure I have WiFi coverage. We have a Google Nest, mesh WiFi in the house and so an extra unit was purchased to cover the second garage and I have full coverage around the layout for running trains on the WiFi.

    Also one of my goals was to run trains under Train Controller in the garden, queue vision of sitting on alfresco watching trains going by whilst sipping a gin and tonic.

    So the next issue was how to detect the trains, there is no current and optical detectors have issues outside with variable light conditions. So I have been trialling some hall effect sensors and magnets fitted to the Locos and Guards vans etc. This has worked very well. So I implemented the solution on the storage yard and have successfully ran automatic battery powered trains over WiFi using train controller, Via A Digikeijs DR5000 and a WiFiTracks WFD-60 that converts the DCC output into a WiFi signal and transmits it to the locos. In the loco a small board coverts the wifi back to DCC and sends that to the decoder (predominantly ZIMO sound decoders).

    So a couple of medical issues has kept the Mexican, manual labour, away so not much progress in the yard. Have recommenced construction with temporary brick piers on concrete blocks with adjustable plastic joist bearers to hold the track. I had originally wanted to do the construction in winter, but here we are in summer and now starting the construction, well on cooler days only.
    IMG_3590.JPG IMG_3591.JPG IMG_3595.JPG IMG_3596.JPG

    The track plan changed again and again and again!! The Dachshund had a back issue at easter and so the retaining wall had to be raised and that is now the track bed along the back of the house.

    Feeling confident that some real progress will happen over the next couple of months.

    Brian
     

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  14. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Wow. I wondered what had happened Brian, but couldn’t recall who or what to search for. Your update came up with my notifications…

    Good steady progress. Looking good!
    Andy
     
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  15. Brian A

    Brian A Full Member

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    So I had six months of medical issues that stopped me doing any manual labour so progress has been slow. I was fully recovered between Christmas and New Year so construction is now proceeding at pace. Mind you it is Australian summer so some days its just too bloody hot!!!

    First Job was to put up a storage shelf above the Storage Yard. This will also have roller blinds that should help with the dust.
    IMG_3566.JPG IMG_3567.JPG IMG_3662.JPG

    Next was to construct my first steel framed board. Simple straight one that fits between curved sections.

    IMG_3672.JPG

    Having succeeded with that section, the next section was a bit more complex being the junction where all the curved sections meet.

    IMG_3664.JPG IMG_3669.JPG IMG_3670.JPG

    The current piece of work is to install the remaining curved sections. The Trac-C steel was delivered during December and first job is to check wether the curves will work. Looks like it will fit with a 6ft (1.8m) radius. IMG_3610.JPG IMG_3609.JPG IMG_3608.JPG
     
  16. Brian A

    Brian A Full Member

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    A couple of cooler days so back out in the garden.

    First job was to cut all the extra bits of the ends of the curved Flex-C so it could fit in the junction.
    IMG_3673.JPG

    Then I did the first join of the Flex-C to a straight bit. Very strong join and as both sides are supported "should" stay level.
    IMG_3675.JPG IMG_3677.JPG IMG_3678.JPG
    Now working on the remaining curved section of the loop. Put about 250 tech screws into the Flex-C. The tech screws make the Flex-C more rigid. Painted about half of the new Flex-C. Hopefully finish this bit in a couple of days.
    IMG_3674.JPG

    Then I need to build the ramp up into the garage. Also can start laying track in the loop and along the retaining wall.

    Cheers Brian
     
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  17. Brian that looks very technical albeit if looks good. :thumbup:
     
  18. Brian A

    Brian A Full Member

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    We can run trains!!!! Well in a limited way, enough to do testing of the trains around the loop and up a 1 in 40 slope.

    Finished putting the boards on the loop and laid the track.
    IMG_3683.JPG IMG_3684.JPG IMG_3686.JPG

    I used exterior Aquadere to glue the track down. Looked like it worked well, but rained that night and the next morning the glue had gone white again and the track was not fixed down.
    IMG_3690.JPG

    A quick call for help on the garden railway and screws were recommended (thanks Bob). So screwed down the existing track work and then laid the junction.
    IMG_3687.JPG IMG_3694.JPG
    Ran the first train that night. Must work out how to get videos up on here. 37 class and a pannier. Found a few issues on the track work which I then fixed. looks like I may need a few more piers and the track is sagging in a couple of places. I hope I have enough bricks.

    Next I constructed the removable section that goes across the gate, 4.2m long and has a 1 in 40 slope. Put temporary track on that and then spent days testing all my battery locos. Test was a standing start on the grade and around the layout using 5 x Dapol Mk1 as the load.
    IMG_3703.JPG
    The following had no issues pulling the 5 Mk1 up the slope and around the curves: Heljan 50, 37, 25, 31 and Dapol Panniers. Didn't test the 14XX as it is attached to the Autocoach.
    IMG_3704.JPG
    The Hattons/Heljan A3 however struggled. When battery was full it could pull 4 Mk1, when battery was low it could only pull 1. Lots of work then went into the A3. Another post to cover of what I did, but it will now pull 7 Mk1 from a standing start on the 1:40.

    Cheers Brian
     

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  19. Andrew Laing

    Andrew Laing Full Member

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    Hi Brian, just caught up with your posts.
    Regarding dust in the garage, I painted the brickwork in my garage with a clear Stabilizing undercoat on the recommendation of a mate who restores classic cars and hey presto no more dust!
     
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  20. Brian A

    Brian A Full Member

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    The Heljan/Hattons A3 and A4 have been problem children with build quality issues and reliability issues and lack of pulling power.

    My A3 was from the original batch and my A4 was bought later when they were heavily discounted. I had to return the A4 for replacement as it had massive issues including one of the drive wheels coming off and I couldn't repair it.

    Lots of issues have been documented and I had several of the common issues with my A3 but a few were really bad issues:

    1. The connector between the tender and loco could short out the speaker wires on the draw bar for the tender. Blew the sound chips for two decoders until I worked it out. The Connector needs to be covered in shrink wrap.

    2. Trailing pony wheel will not go through double slips without derailing. Also comes off in other places. I had tried the recommended fixes, remove two coils form the spring and put limiters to stop side movement. These solved most of the issues but it still came off over double slips. I then added 5g of lead to the trailing arm and it now works.

    3. Pulling power, under DCC on my shelf layout, the best I could get was for it to pull 3 Mk1 through my flat 4ft radius curve.

    Now it was designated to go to the garden railway so needed to be battery converted. I installed 12 x AAA 900mAh batteries along with a WifiTrax board. Now with full charge around 17VDC it would pull 4 Mk1 but when down at 11VDC it could barely pull one Mk1. Also when the load got too much, the loco would stall, and you could hear gears not meshing. Awful sound. It would never slip the wheels. I wasn't happy with this knowing that there would be some 1:40 grades and large curves in the garden.

    So I redid the Battery conversion. This time I added 3 x Panasonic 18650 batteries and a voltage ramp up board. The batteries put out 9-12.6VDC and the Ramp up board converts that to 17.5VDC and the WifiTrax converts that to 18.5V DCC.

    IMG_3706.JPG
    IMG_3707.JPG
    IMG_3708.JPG
    New battery install with Zimo Decoder underneath and Wifitrax board to the side.

    Also I pulled the body off and made sure the motor was properly screwed down. I had never opened the body as all the previous work had been in the tender. With the body off and the motor reinstalled, I no longer had the gear mesh issue and under load the wheels would now slip. Also noticed that if you put light pressure over the firebox it would pull better. I then added 110g of lead in firebox and the vacant space in the front of the cab.So body back on and ensure it and the motor were properly bolted down and off for testing.
    IMG_3709.JPG
    Lead in the firebox.

    So with the layout I have 2m and 1.8m (6ft) radius curves and a 5m 1:40 grade. What a difference with the revamp I could do a standing start on the grade with 7 Mk1 and the same on any of the curves. Much happier with the loco. I will now do the same mods to the replacement A4.
    IMG_3704.JPG
    IMG_3703.JPG
    Testing in the garden working up to 7 Mk1s
     

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