Possible 0 gauge track plan and my thoughts on it.

Discussion in 'Suggested Layout Track Plan Examples' started by Keith M, Sep 24, 2020.

  1. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    4,099
    Likes Received:
    2,665
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    Cheers Gormo! My Wife gets infuriated at me on occasion due to my very logical approach to things (am I the only one who finds "Womens logic" totally illogical???:giggle:) but as I point out, as an Electrician I was always taught to do things in a logical way, at 73 and after 50+ years as an Electrician, I still have all my fingers and thumbs and a brain between my ears so I must be doing something right! Anyway, I realise that perhaps my way of explaining things leaves something to be desired so I decided to do another rough sketch to illustrate how I will link the sections of track. I have yet to discover the joys(?) of Insulfrog versus Electrofrog points as my 00 gauge layout uses Hornby ones so another learning curve ahead methinks, I'll cross that bridge when I get to it!:avatar:

    IMG_2004.JPG
     
    jakesdad13 and York Paul like this.
  2. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

    Messages:
    4,538
    Likes Received:
    1,815
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2015
    Yes Keith,
    That`s exactly what I have done, although mine is not pretty to look at, but it works.....:thumbs:
    :tophat:Gormo
     
  3. Walkingthedog

    Walkingthedog Full Member

    Messages:
    405
    Likes Received:
    370
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2020
    The link wire doesn’t need to be near the ends of the track and it can go under the baseboard. If you put it half way along the track you can solder the next link wire for the next piece of track at the same time.

    Longer wires but less soldering.
     
  4. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    5,096
    Likes Received:
    5,658
    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2017
    One nice little advantage of this method of bridging rail gaps is if the wires are soldered on the outsides of the rail (so as not to interfere with wheel flanges) then (if using thin wire in pairs) it will look similar to rail bonded joints for track circuits.
     
  5. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    4,099
    Likes Received:
    2,665
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    Despite it being rather cool and breezy today, I decided I'd get the trunking installed onto the upstand alongside the layout so it's ready to receive cabling when I make a start properly next Spring. This is the stuff, comes as a 'flat pack', once fixed you just fold the sides together to form a "U" shape, then add the lid.

    IMG_2005.JPG
     
    Toto and jakesdad13 like this.
  6. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    4,099
    Likes Received:
    2,665
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    .......and a couple of hours work and all done. The curves were 'fun' but easily accomplished simply by adopting a joiners method of curving wood strip around curves, cut through the 2 sides at 2.5mm centres to get things round the curve easily and neatly. The trunking is self adhesive, but I used screw, washers and nut at 500mm centres to be sure.

    IMG_2006.JPG
     
    jakesdad13 likes this.
  7. Ron

    Ron Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    3,229
    Likes Received:
    623
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2015
    Looking good Keith, I thought you would turn to the dark side sooner or later! :)
     
  8. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

    Messages:
    4,538
    Likes Received:
    1,815
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2015
    That`s very neat and tidy Keith......:thumbs:
    :tophat:Gormo
     
  9. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    2,810
    Likes Received:
    1,919
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2015
    Very neat Keith
     
  10. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    4,195
    Likes Received:
    1,732
    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2015
    When you get round to laying the track and points, give me a holler and I will come over and give you a hand. Electrofrog points aren't as scary to wire up as some folk believe.

    Cheers, Pete.
     
    Keith M likes this.
  11. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

    Messages:
    6,207
    Likes Received:
    2,517
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2015
    Between you and Pete, I'm sure you will understand these diagrams for wiring Peco electrofrog points...


    Above. The wires need to be cut (red) and the frog wire (do not remove - green)...


    Above. Wiring in a slide switch for point and polarity throw.


    Above. Additional links to rails to improve electrical conductivity to all sections of rail on the points.

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  12. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

    Messages:
    14,796
    Likes Received:
    3,258
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2017
    It all comes flooding back. :facepalm: took me ages to get my head around that but when you do ...... not that difficult.

    Toto
     
  13. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    4,099
    Likes Received:
    2,665
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    Will do Pete, experience is priceless!
    Keith.
     
    jakesdad13 likes this.
  14. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    4,099
    Likes Received:
    2,665
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    I'll be using Hattons point motors to operate each point via 'wire in tube', so will I need any Peco microswitches for frog switching, assuming these mount to the point in some way? I understand there are a couple of different types so which would I need. Just asking so I can make sure I get everything together that I need when I make a start, nothing more frustrating than "Whoops, I forgot to order ...........!"
    Keith.
     
  15. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

    Messages:
    6,207
    Likes Received:
    2,517
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2015
    If you are using Hattons point motors (solenoids), no need for 'wire in tube' as the motors are electrically wired and not manual.

    The Hattons solenoids screw to the base of your baseboard or you could surface mount, that is if you can hide them. The motor (HAT-PM-01) has an three pronged crank arm on the bottom and one of those arms can be used to close/open a micro switch.

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  16. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    4,099
    Likes Received:
    2,665
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    The motors will be surface mounted at the outer (upstand) edge of the board, hopefully disguised by scenery/buildings Gary, wiring via the mintrunking back to whatever control (Analogue or DCC) I decide to use, 'wire-in-tube' will be just from each point motor to the relevant point. If I don't need microswitches for frog switching, I could use one for signals instead operated by the crank arm as you say.
    Keith.
     
    jakesdad13 likes this.
  17. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    4,195
    Likes Received:
    1,732
    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2015
    On my old Lockoford Yard layout I used Peco point motors surface mounted hidden in two buildings with their remote operating arms. Peco make switching accessories that fix to the top of the point motor for polarity switching.
    The operating arms are made from rigid plastic so I reckon you can make your own for your point operation. I wouldn't use Plasticard or evergreen for them as I have found it to become brittle with age, maybe some lengths of spare track rail if you have some would be useful.
    I have had a shufty at the Hattons soleniod switches, I thought they looked a little like the old H&M point motors but they have a built in polarity switch so if you intend using Hattons and electrofrog points then some form of microswitch will be needed, not a problem, they are a doddle to fit.

    Give me a shout if you want me to come over and I will wire a point up for you so you can see what is involved, it is really simple.

    Cheers, Pete.
     
  18. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    4,099
    Likes Received:
    2,665
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    I've not got around to buying either track or points yet Pete, "Rails" are awaiting stock from Peco and I've a deposit on some track for when they do, and since (A) I'm in no hurry, and (B) they are the cheapest (Tighta*se alert!) I'm happy to wait and pick some up when they have it in stock rather than let 'Parcelfarce' bring it, as my Sister lives in Sheffield and I'm often over there anyway. I'm in the process of accumulating stuff I'll need over the coming months, I have the Lenz control unit and handset, the 5 amp transformer arrived yesterday together with a couple of MERG 'District Cut Out' kits, I've ordered a pack of a couple of dozen 300mm long brass tubing from China for the 'tube' part and as per your suggestion, I'll use some Mig welding wire for the 'wire' bit as I already have that 'in stock'. Like everyone else, I have to live within my budget, so I'll buy it as I can afford to month by month. That's the only snag with being retired as opposed to still working, I can't just get extra weekend work to boost the budget!:avatar:

    Keith.
     
    jakesdad13 likes this.
  19. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    4,195
    Likes Received:
    1,732
    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2015
    No problem mate. I have a couple of Marcway points in my stash for another project, we could use those if you like to practice on, the principle is the same as Peco points.

    Pete.
     
  20. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    4,099
    Likes Received:
    2,665
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    This is the Lenz 5 amp transformer together with a couple of the MERG 'District Cut Out' kits received yesterday.

    IMG_2007.JPG
     
    jakesdad13 likes this.

Share This Page