Time to build a few Static Grass Applicators

Discussion in 'Tools' started by Gary, Dec 12, 2024.

  1. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Some time back I received a package from Oatley Electronics and in this package were 3 x power supplies and 3 x ion generators.
    Last night I purchased all the other hardware to build three static grass applicators.

    This photo below, minus some wires, solder, and other tools used to build these.


    I have the pipe, pipe couplings, pipe caps, steel mesh (strainer) generators, power supplies, latching on/off buttons, araldite and RCA plugs.

    Just got to get the drop saw and electric drill, soldering iron etc and make a start on these tomorrow.

    I will do a follow up on these as I go along

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  2. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    G`day Gary,
    Did your old static grass applicator pack it in or is this a new improved model....?
    Looking forward to the build...:thumbs:
    :tophat:Gormo
     
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  3. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Mines packed up.. can’t work out why. May be the buzzy box.
     
  4. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Gary, on the UK ones we have a red wire, black wire and white wire with some black fuzz on the end.

    what do you do with this wire ? (I can’t recall if I snipped mine back now or what?)

    andy
     
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  5. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Andy, the Negative Ion Generators I purchased are wire to the diagram below. I do need to add the external black wire to the 'pin'.


    Hope this helps.

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  6. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Gormo,

    No, my static grass applicator is working fine. A few people on here are after one so I went and purchased enough goodies to build six of them ! The only difference will be the latching on/off button. I decided to use these as the momentary push buttons tend to wear a little where I can fill the electricity (12 volts) flowing through ! :eek:

    Cheers. Gary.
     
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  7. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    I agree,
    The momentary buttons, especially the small ones, can be a bit touchy, not always making proper contact after a bit of use.
    The latching switch will be more reliable.
    :tophat:Gormo
     
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  8. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Er… no.?

    the below is like the one I had (picture from
    eBay- other purchase sites are available)

    IMG_0347.jpeg

    As can be seen the third wire is white.. and terminates as a bush!

    I must have trimmed this back to the wire under the insulation (I can’t remember now, it’s 4 years ago.) but I do wonder, what the purpose of the brush was for?
     
  9. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    The Negative Ion Generators I purchased come with a wiring diagram to build a static grass applicator from the supplier. The supplier diagram dictates adding the extra black wire that will supply the positive feed to the pin (local earth). https://oatleyelectronics.com/product_info.php?products_id=1204&osCsid=m3f2jafuglto36tkmrr057dp31


    Looking at what you have, the black and red would be your power supply and (I'm guessing) the white should got to the strainer (mesh) ??

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  10. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Sounds about right.

    I will have to strip mine down again. I think the ion unit is U/S
    Which is a shame as only used about twice in anger. May have to change to a newer one (or maybe more expensive?)
     
  11. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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  12. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    The first of many is complete, but no construction photos with this one as it is a gift for a mate.

    Nice compact size, around 250mm (10") in length...

    Latching button and RCA plug for power supply.

    All the electronics are housed in the top section, this is approximately 65mm (2.5")

    Looking through the applicator. This time I decided to sheild off the electronics from the grass chamber.

    The sifting end.

    I will go about explaining the build on my next applicator with photos.

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  13. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Interesting thread Gary, the one I purchased from WW Scenics had three mesh sizes for different length grasses.
     
  14. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    This is perfect if you are modelling N, HO or OO and works great with 2mm to 7mm grass fibres. Any grasses larger I generally do the 'pinch and plunge' method.
    Can I ask, how much did you pay for the WW Scenics applicator ?

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  15. Andrew Laing

    Andrew Laing Full Member

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    Nice build. Looks professional.

    I built one but it gave mixed results so I took the plunge a bought a Woodland Scenics static king. Total game changer, 2 different size mesh filters and runs of a mains transformer at 12V. However £90......3 years ago.
     
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  16. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    These applicators cost approximately $35.00, or just under £18.00 and are great for OO and HO, they work fine. No real need for other sized mesh filters as I layer the grass in two and three applications.
    I have used this size mesh on all of my layouts on Platform 1 MRC.

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  17. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    It was a long time ago Gary and I think it was around £80 or thereabouts... currently it priced at £104.55
     
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  18. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Here I demonstrate how I put this static grass applicator together...

    1. Trace out an 'end capping' onto a piece of 1mm thick styrene sheet.


    2. Take a 65mm length 50mm diameter PVC pipe and glue the circle of styrene to this. Drill a 2.5mm hole halfway down the side of the 65mm PVC pipe. Drill another 2.5mm hole towards one side of the styrene. The hole on the side of the PVC pipe is for the earth/ground wire.


    3. Sand down the edges flush with the PVC pipe.


    4. Glue on a pipe coupling to the styrene end of the PVC pipe. The black wire protruding from the PVC pipe is explained further down in instruction #8.


    5. Take a PVC end cap and drill two holes in the top, one hole 12mm and the other 8mm. Both holes need to be approximately 3mm in from the inside edge. These holes are for the latching switch and the RCA plug.


    6. On the underside of the cap, the hole for the RCA plug needs to have a chamfer/bevel to allow the plug to screw in.


    7. Attach both the RCA plug and Latching switch.


    8. Now this is where soldering skills come in handy. Use the diagram below to wire up the RCA plug to both the Negative Ion Generator (black wire), RCA plug to the latching switch (red wire) and then the red wire from the negative ion generator back to the other tab on the latching switch. Do not worry about the red wire at the bottom of the negative ion generator. We will get to this in step #12. The use of heat shrink is very useful in this step.

    I recommend plugging the power supply into the RCA fitting to help keep the pin centred when heat is applied. Do not connect to mains power...!

    Please note that you will be required to splice in another black wire to act as the ground, as per the diagram.



    I shortened the red wire between the negative ion generator and the switch to contain the wires inside the PVC pipe.


    9. Take another PVC end cap and trace out a circle onto a piece of steel wire mesh. I purchased a cheap wire strainer and cut the mesh from this. Cut and trim the mesh and use araldite (quick set two part epoxy) to glue to a 160mm length of 50mm diameter PVC pipe.


    10. While you have the araldite out, secure the negative ion generator to the inside of the top cap.


    11. With the end cap, now drill out or dremel out the flat surface on the end cap, leaving a 1mm lip inside.


    12. Once the epoxy has dried on the pipe/mesh, trim up any excess with a good, sharp pair of scissors and place the drilled out cap over the end. A spot of MEK here inside the cap sides helps to secure the lot in.

    Using this diagram, pass the lower red wire from the negative ion generator through the pre-drilled 2.5mm hole in the 1mm styrene. Pass this through the 160mm PVC pipe to the mesh. Do not shorten this red wire as you will require the length to open the hopper for filling of static grass fibres.


    If using stainless steel mesh, you will find that solder does not adhere. I recommend stripping enough wire and passing the wires through the mesh then give them a twist. A small amount of solder will secure this to the mesh.


    13. Take a 40mm nail and solder the black ground wire to this. I added some heat shrink then passed the lot into a short section of styrene tube. Use araldyte to secure wire to the inside of the styrene tube. Having the styrene on the end makes it easier to handle !


    14. Now with everything soldered up, push the hopper end (160mm PVC pipe and mesh cap) together into the coupling. DO NOT GLUE THIS ON !
    The lower hopper needs only to be pressure fitted only as this is what you fill with the static grass fibres.

    If you have followed through with the instructions, you can now plug in your power supply, fill hopper with grass fibres and start applying the grass !

    Cheers, Gary.
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2024
  19. Vinylelpea

    Vinylelpea Full Member

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    Can someone help me. I have a ion generator as photo. I get a full short between the top two wires pos and neg . Is this normal? Also should there be connectivity between the two pos (red) top wire to the bottom pos (red). Just wondering if the ion generator is faulty cheers
    20250107_141437.jpg
     
  20. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    This diagram here is based on the instructions from Oatley Electronics, supplier of negative ion generators.


    Cheers, Gary.
     
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