Class 15 - one of mine.

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by SBt, Dec 25, 2018.

  1. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    I always use 145 degree solder for most assemblies and with a good heat sink I managed to fabricate small assemblies without other pieces falling off. The secret I find is a quick in out using a hot iron and withdrawing the iron when you hear the flux starting to fizz, remember heat will still be there for a few extra seconds once the iron is withdrawn which will allow solder to continue to flow where it is needed, a solid fix will then be made. :thumbs:
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2019
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  2. SBt

    SBt Full Member

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    I'm learning! :thumbup:
     
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  3. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Yes but your big skill gift is disseminating information by transferring 2D visuals into a wirework which is then the tool to create 3D objects, something I wouldn't know where to even start, I've been kit building of various different types and making things all my life, that's a hands on skill and process which comes as second nature to me.
     
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  4. SBt

    SBt Full Member

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    2nd chassis put together to running stage. Note the alternative motor mount. This will go in the cooling group housing (No 1 end).

    5 11th January 2019.jpg
     
  5. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    What's the difference Steve. .... to my untrained eye they look very similar. :(
     
  6. SBt

    SBt Full Member

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    If you look at the picture you'll see the inner ends face each other and the outer ends are as they are on the loco. I'll take a better one later.
     
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  7. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Steve.
    If, as on the left hand bogie in your pic, the motor is 'outboard' of it, won't this interfere with the loco's cab? If not, then at least both motors will drive in the same direction at the same time. When I built my 00 gauge 'Golden Arrow Models' Bulleid "Leader" model, the two motors were built in between the bogies themselves rather than above as on your model, so each had to be wired so that they drove in opposite direction of rotation to one another (as the bogies were opposing ends) so that both bogies drove the loco in the same direction at the same time.
    Keith.
     
  8. SBt

    SBt Full Member

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    All will be revealed later this afternoon! :giggle:
     
  9. SBt

    SBt Full Member

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    Moving onto the platform and now you can see how and why the motors are arranged. As both motors face the same way wiring is easy.

    The hardest part of this is keeping the solebar and buffer beams square.

    6 12th January 2019.jpg 6a 12th January 2019.jpg 6b 12th January 2019.jpg
     
  10. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Looking good Steve.

    One question. Is there enough room for the bogie to turn without the motor fouling the stretcher go the rear of it. Looks very close.

    Toto
     
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  11. SBt

    SBt Full Member

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    It'll turn far enough to nergotiate tighter than average curves before fouling.
     
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  12. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    no worries :thumbs:
     
  13. SBt

    SBt Full Member

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    And to prove a point - wired up the 2nd bogie and test ran both coupled together with no issues. Same direction, no shorting on first attempt.

    Now I'm going to double check the buffer beam height with two jigs I drew up and printed off so I can get the height of the 3d printed pivots right.

    7 13th January 2019.jpg
     
  14. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Great progress Steve. Don't go keeping them 3d hugs to yourself now. :avatar: I'm sure they will be handy for my class 15 as well. In fact, would these do the other loco's too or is the buffer arrangement different ?

    Cheers

    Toto
     
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  15. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I'm looking at this and thinking ....... I could do that. It all looks very reasonable so far. The bogies are a much more straight forward affair than the 21 etc.

    :scratchchin:

    Does the motor mounting plate come with the etches Steve, negating the requirement to buy a separate gearbox ? That is how I'm reading it.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  16. SBt

    SBt Full Member

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    The motor plate comes with the kit in the bogie etches. You can of course dispense with it and it's mounting and fit a standard motor/gearbox.

    Those buffer height jigs I thought of selling seperately. They are for the standard BR diesel configuration.
     
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  17. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I returned to the post J put up when I bought my Class 15 and had a quick look at the frets. They can clearly be seen so I will utilise the plate and see how it runs with that. I also have 20:1 gear sets. Should not be a huge difference between that and the 26:1 versions.

    If the jigs " fit all " then fair enough. They can be used on an on going basis but if they were only suitable for a couple, I'd have given them with the kit.

    How much are you thinking of charging Steve ?

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  18. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I returned to the post J put up when I bought my Class 15 and had a quick look at the frets. They can clearly be seen so I will utilise the plate and see how it runs with that. I also have 20:1 gear sets. Should not be a huge difference between that and the 26:1 versions.

    If the jigs " fit all " then fair enough. They can be used on an on going basis but if they were only suitable for a couple, I'd have given them with the kit.

    How much are you thinking of charging Steve ?

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  19. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    The gear ratio I employ in your diesel range are 20:1 supplied by Roxey Mouldings, before I went with this arrangement I'd fitted 26:1 gearing in the Class 24 bogies, a good conversation about which gearing ratio was best with the chap at Roxey concluded the 20:1 as suitable because he fitted these in his Southern Region EMU range. So from that advice 20:1 gearing is standard in my mainline diesel builds and the redundant 26:1 gear sets from the Class 24 build I propose to use in certain other steam builds. I haven't proved performance difference between the both as yet but am informed the 20:1 offers a slightly quicker acceleration which is more prototypical to diesel traction. The motors fitted are from Taff Vale Models near Cardiff and the Delrin chains and cogs I use are from Swift Sixteen because these supplier prices are better competitive and represent great value for money plus I'm supporting small businesses which in this day and age is quite important I believe.

    Of course one can always pay £27 plus for a second hand Mashima 1833 from an on line auction site or £35 for an unused one and be told these are as rare as finding a golden studded Iron Age broach :avatar: or are the very last few stock items available and once they are gone are gone.:facepalm:
     
  20. SBt

    SBt Full Member

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    Yes I should and a video too I am a voice over after all....

    Tonight I started on a couple of the sub assemblies like battery box and compressor cover etc. I also built the cab. There's a coule of silly areas on the housings which you'll see later. They were rolled using scrap brass tube and the lids as formers.

    8 14th January 2019.jpg
     

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