Great Chesterford Junction Part Two

G`day Folks,
I don`t know if you read that stuff in the previous post????.....there`s some crazy people on this forum.???
Well back to the job at hand......I`ve just finished the bracing for the main platform. Next job is to add the brick edging near the tops of the platform and then the lid can go on.........eventually????
Here`s some pics.
One end



And the other end



And some close ups





So there you go folks........a rather big job out of the way.
More as it happens
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G`day Folks,
I`ve glued on the last edge strip for the platforms. Once the glue is dry we remove the platforms and mark out the tops.
More as it happens
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Guys,
We are at the other end of the weather spectrum here Toto. Hot & Humid. Sydney has just had it`s second day in a row with severe thunderstorms. High winds, lashing rain and lots of it plus hail, flooding and property damage. We have been lucky and come through unscathed so far.....fingers crossed. Yesterday we had trees down in the area and roads temporarily blocked......Hooeee!!!!...interesting times.
Ian we haven`t had any earthquakes for a while but if we do I`m sure my platforms will survive it.
I have temporarily suspended building my railway to concentrate on building a boat.......just in case I need one.
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Sooright !!! Paul.

 

Meanwhile Back in the shed,
Folks,

Well today I removed my platform substructures in preparation for the next step. Marking out the platform tops. The section below is too big for the sheet of MDF so this top was done in two parts...no problem....it just needs careful marking out and cutting.



When ready to mark out, I usually weigh down the frame so that it won`t move whilst I`m running the pencil around.



Once cut out, the parts are test fitted on the reinstated substructure and checked with rolling stock etc..You can see the rough edges on the tops......sanding will sort that out.



The sloping ends also have to be scored so that they will bend into the right shape in the right place.



The parts are then sanded and cleaned up to as good as possible. I usually check the fit for a second time and when happy ....glue the parts and weigh them down



So there we are folks........the glue will be given 24 hours to dry and then we`re into gluing the sand paper sheets on top to simulate the paving.
Well it`s getting there..???
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Thanks Paul,

Yes they are strong.......I was showing Gary the other day.....but really it`s the old egg shell trick....you know, when you squeeze the pointy ends between your palms you can`t crush the egg.

So the platform substructure is strong in the vertical plane but the sides ( horizontal plane) won`t get their strength until the top ties it all together..........tomorrow!!!

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Gary,

The re-alignment is simple. The brackets are glued to the platform sides. The other end (right angle ) of the bracket is screwed to the baseboard.

Remove the screws from the brackets to remove the platform walls, and when re-fitting the platform walls just line up with the screw holes again. Same as taking a hinge off a door and refitting the hinge again in the same spot.

You knew that mate.?????.....you`re just testing me aren`t you.????



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That`s OK Pete....don`t worry about it.

Just to clarify for everyone the 12 steps in putting these things together.

1 Cut platforms wall strips from 3mm MDF to desired height and length.

2 Laminate platform walls with brick paper and trim to suit.

3 Glue brackets to insides of platform walls.......I use contact adhesive.

4 Fix platform walls to baseboard by inserting screws through the horizontal part of the brackets. Use a jig to space the walls at the correct distance from track as you fix each bracket down.

5 With walls in place, now start inserting bracing between walls. I use 3mm MDF and PVA. After the bracing is fitted, I also add some 3mm strip to the top outside edges of the walls to give a stepped effect, however this is optional.

6 When platforms are fully braced and glue has set, remove screws and remove the now, platform substructures.

7 Lay platform substructure upside down on a sheet of 3mm MDF to mark out platform tops. To allow for the top to overhang the platform wall, I use a spacer with a pencil to mark out the top

8 Cut out the tops and clean up the cut edges. Check for irregularities and bumps etc.

9 Refit the platform substructure to the baseboard by lining up the screw holes in the baseboard with the brackets.

10 Test fit the platform tops and test clearances with rolling stock....especially on curved platforms. Make adjustments if necessary.

11 Score across the platform tops at the point where they bend down and fall away at their ends. Gently bend along the score line to achieve the correct angle. Test this method on some scrap to see how much you need to score the board.

12 Apply PVA to the tops of the substructure and permanently fit the platform tops. Use weights on top of the platform until the glue sets.
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Folks,
Certainly worth consideration Marty although a bit late now for me....
The thing is though, without the locating blocks you can float the top around to make those fine adjustments whilst the glue is still wet...????....so I don`t know Marty????...the thing would be to give it a go and see how it works out.
Well folks.....the platform top is stuck down and tested. It still needs it edges or the lines of the platform edge cleaned up a little. It`s difficult to get a good line of site along it now to sort it but I`ll work it out.
So I`ve got a little video of some trains running through it.
Here we go
Platform Testing



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