Luib Bridge

Discussion in 'Members Personal Layouts' started by Toto, Jul 16, 2016.

  1. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Thats what is so good about this hobby, you learn something new every day, plus we share knowledge freely!

    Pete.
     
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  2. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    No, no Pete, I sent Toto the bill.... :avatar::avatar:

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  3. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I am going to try copydex to fix the plaster platform to the edges of the layered foam board. I hope it works. If not ..... plaster of paris. Photo's will follow later. I may construct the low relief building today as well. My Slaters ( O gauge brick ) plastikard arrived this morning. I am going to use this for a dwarf wall around the outside of the carriage works build. The corrugated asbestos sheeting will have a slight overlap at the top of it. the wall will only be about 2 feet high.

    cheers

    toto

    cheers

    toto.
     
  4. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Plastic Asbestos - don't forget the PPC or is that PPPC (Plastic Personel Protective Clothing).

    Paul
     
  5. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I stuck some daler board along the front of the foam board to give the copydex something better to grab hold of when my platform fronts go on. ( pictures later ) I will stick a layer of daler board to the underside of bpth the platform fronts and the foam board as well in order to bring the whole thing together. It will become clearer when I post up the pictures. Just waiting for the copydex to dry along the front edge. I've been to B & Q meanwhile for some ready mix plaster adhesive for gap filling etc. Also some stipling brushes for when the painting and weathering comes into play. I don't think they were made for this job but once I gave them a bit of a haircut ..... they are perfect. :avatar:

    more later

    toto
     
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  6. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Back on the build and here is where I am at the moment .......


    I was not happy with the cut / exposed foam board ends to glue the platform ( plastercast ) to. So I cut some card and glued that to the foam board to give a better adhesive surface to glue to.


    and the end ......


    Then placed the platform to get an idea.


    NOW ..... can anyone spot something fishy going on from the previous set of pictures on the last post ...... :avatar: I wonder ....


    the end will need trimmed to take the ramp.

    and another

    Then a layer of Dalerboard along the top of the foam board.


    in place ......


    and again .......


    and the last one for the moment ......


    so .... its tea time but I'll be back in the shed tonight.

    Next up is to fix the plaster platform sections in place ( once I've done a wee adjustment at the ramp end ). I will need to fill the gaps at the platform joins and in between the flag stones at the joints. I will also fill any gaps between the back of the platform sections and the foam board with a weak plaster mix before using copydex to glue down the card surface.

    I have a roll of tarmac sheeting which I may use as the finished surface. We'll see how that looks. It can always be weathered down to look old, cracked etc just to age it a bit.

    Once I have all that in hand and the platform sections have dried out ....... its out with the Colron for the brick finish on the platform frontage. ....... NOW .... has anybody picked on on the skulduggery yet. :avatar:

    OK ..... anyway ...... back later after tea.

    cheers for now

    toto
     
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  7. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    OK,

    finished for tonight ....... here is where I got to.


    needed to build a five and a half inch extension to the platform so there we have it drying off.


    cut away a section for the ramp area.


    all the platform edges were stuck in place using copydex.


    and there we have it ......


    and from the other end....... Also here is the tarmac surface that I originally bought for the R & GLR.


    and another a bit closer up .....


    So I have left the copydex to dry and also the top layer of card to the upper platform surface for the moment. Tomorrow I will have to go around the joints between the platform joints and tidy them up to allow me to tidy / fill with a weak plaster mix. That should dry within a couple of hours and then the Colron can come out to work its magic on the brickwork and start to bring the whole thing to life. its one of these days where you have to let various coats / finishes dry so ....... Ill be turning my attention to the next part of the build.


    I can start the above and get the basic carcass kicked off. I can also get the window frames painted ready for fitting as this build ( apart from glue drying ) is a relatively quick build.

    I also have the following ready to get some attention, probably in tandem with get the track started.


    Slaters corrugated sheet and brick sheet. This will be used on the wagon works build.

    So, we are moving again. Track, electrics ....... that's all to be done in between the above as well. loads to go at.

    cheers for now ....... until tomorrow.

    cheers

    toto
     
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  8. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Looking good Toto - what kept you :avatar:
     
  9. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Just my usual pace I'm afraid. should leap forward another stage tomorrow. A little fill in with plaster, let it dry then the Colron. The Colron needs at least 24 to 48 hours to dry properly then its a rinse over with warm soapy water and the mortar courses shall flow through the brick courses. Paint the flag stones and weather then the main platform surface will go down.

    A few separate tasks that take a little time but plenty to do in between.

    cheers

    toto
     
  10. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Looking ahead to the low relief warehouse build. As I said earlier, the build itself looks quite straight forward. I'm not over confident about the painting though. I was thinking an all over coat of cream to fill the mortar courses then dry brushing the brick colour. The cream will go on via the airbrush to keep the coat thin enough as not to lose the definition in the brickwork. It's really the dry brushing I'm not so keen on but I suppose I need to take the plunge at some point. It's time to go for it I think.

    I have a coal skaithes kit of the same type with some brick panels on it. Maybe I should practice on that first. The doors and possibly the window frames for the warehousing will all be in Scottish region blue. ...... Or is that Platform1 blue ........ :avatar:

    Cheers

    Toto
     
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  11. Ron

    Ron Full Member

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    Like this Tom?
     
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  12. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Just like that
     
  13. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    A little bit of filling in to be done ......

    and I've lost the image ...... :facepalm:

    found them ..... nothing exciting though .....


    and one more ....


    the joints will be better disguised once it has been painted and weathered. I need it to dry first though.

    more later.

    cheers

    toto
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2018
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  14. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Back on the platform build whilst my low relief warehouse dries off. its time to bring out the Colron.


    you don't need much at all because although it is oil based, it is still very viscose and goes quite a long way.


    As you can see, I'm wearing gloves because this stuff is BAD. A respirator is also advised as it stinks and will send you to the moon. ( although I did not take my own advise here and just left the shed door open slightly )


    As you can see I've put it on dark but that's ok as it will dry lighter. It does not go on uniform either. some areas of the plaster seems to soak it in more than others so you will see many different tones. that can work to your advantage.


    this has to dry out 100% before continuing and will take 24 to 48 hours. It must be completely dry before the next stage which is the mortar courses. In order to do this, the brick face is doused in warm soapy water then flicked dry. ( no cloth ) The surface including the mortar courses will still be wet and when offering the tip of a brush with your chosen mortar colour up to the mortar course, you'll see the paint ( mortar ) race through the courses. This is aided by adding a little washing up liquid to your warm water.

    You can ( before applying the mortar ) do another coat of Colron if the brick has not dries dark enough or if its too dark, add a lighter wash to tone it down.

    i'll post up more as I do it. probably tomorrow night at the earliest for this though.

    Cheers

    toto
     
  15. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Toto, that last pic of the brick courses is superb, personally speaking I'd question whether you need to pick out the brick courses at all as the mortar pointing looks nicely weather in as it is. Now I'm not teaching you to suck eggs but cement pointing is totally different from mortar pointing not least in the colouring as cement is associated with newer buildings and repairs whilst mortar (which is hydraulic lime and ash/sand mix) is what was used on old Victorian builds because it was cheaper and more commonly available than early 19th Century cement. It is the ash / crushed boiler clinker mix that makes the lime go blackish in tone, the lime is merely the bonding agent, confusion arises in the misuse of the word mortar as fast setting cement is often referred to using the term mortar. Modern cement on the other hand is an inflexible binding of sand with a processed mix of calcining lime and clay known as Portland Cement. The pedantic sad old rivet counters like me notice these differences :avatar:
     
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  16. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Some how black or grey, if your wellies are made out of either I don't think you will float :avatar:

    A pity you don't have any spare bits to try the different mortar paint colours.

    The build is looking good, are you going to put any interiors (photo's etc) and or lighting ?

    Paul
     
  17. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I'm going to install lighting. Not sure about photos though. It's trying to get something appropriate in the right scale. We'll see.
     
  18. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Its Friday nicht and its shed time. time to attack the mortar courses on my platforms. some watered down emulsion. wet the brick fascia with warm soapy water, shake off and then apply the emulsion. Watch it trickle through the brick courses.

    pictures will follow.

    cheers

    toto
     
  19. Chatty

    Chatty Full Member

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    Ah ha the trickle down effect....
     
  20. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Yes ..... it works very well ...... usually. I have the edging stones to do on the platforms as well. A matt grey, probably weathered. I thought about a little moss in between ranging from black ( ish ) through to green as these platforms if unmaintained tended to have a bit dampness or / and weeds coming through. I have various shades of matt green paints and some green weathering powders which would add a bit relief to an otherwise flat surface.

    Hopefully get onto some of this through the week at night as they are all relatively small jobs which can be done in under an hour which is ideal.

    cheers

    toto
     

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