Mossys 3D Models

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by Mossy, May 19, 2022.

  1. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    The other alternative is get some foamboard, cut it into strips and stick some abrasive paper to it. Throw them away as they wear and make some more.
     
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  2. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    I've found some, mixed pack of 5 grades, 50in the pack, right size - £4.95 perfect, BUT, go to checkout and postage is £4.95! They would be dwarfed in an A4 envelope and a large first stamp would cover the cost, so in my mind a total rip-off, they are not being ordered from that shop.
     
  3. Tom Burnham

    Tom Burnham Full Member

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    If you find something suitable on Amazon, sign up to a trial of Amazon Prime and enjoy free postage on items dispatched by Amazon. Just remember to cancel before the end of the trial period.

    Tom.
     
  4. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Hi Tom been there got that tick and almost got caught. Strangely they offered me the same deal last week when I ordered something for the boss, so I accepted.
     
  5. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    A couple of months ago Mr Dundee asked how I did the tumblehome and panelling on the auto car and frankly it was a right %^&*(, but since then I have hit on an easier way based on Rob P's pantograph cutter (is that the right term Rob?), so I sent him some notes. I thought I should tidy them up and add them to this thread so they are publicly available.

    The autocar side is made up of 3 bodies, the Divers/luggage compartment and a middle and end 3rd compartment. This is a middle 3rd compartment.

    The basic shape is drawn and modelled from an end view using a mixture of straight lines and control point splines and extruded to length. The recent change is to do this as 2 extrusions an outer .5mm body and an inner 1mm body. In hindsight 3 point arcs might create a better transition between the vertical side and the tumblehome.

    Shot 1.jpg Shot 2.jpg

    Then the details are drawn as a single sketch from the front and any panelling required is highlighted and extruded right through the outer .5mm body giving:

    shot 6.jpg shot 7.jpg Shot 3.jpg

    All these bodies are them combined with the inner 1mm body before extruding the windows, door and grab handle cuts etc giving this:

    Shot 5.jpg

    Then I added in extra details like door hinges, bump stops and ventilators etc. The end 3rd and drivers compartments are done in exactly the same way. All that's then left to do is line up and combine an end 3rd, 5 x inner 3rds and a drivers compt to give the full body side.
     
  6. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Hmm.. making me think here… 4 or 6 wheel coaches should be possible??
     
  7. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Andy,

    Did I send you the full projects of the 4 and 6 wheel milk vans I drew for you or just the .stls. I can email them to you as worked examples if you would like them.

    Mossy
     
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  8. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    At last check it was just the upper structure walls. Not sure how much further you progressed?
     
  9. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Andy

    Just checked the 4 wheel milk van, it's complete except for the axlebox/spring assemblies, if I remember correctly the axlebox detail was to poor to allow a good drawing and you were going to try source a decent drawing. So I didn't draw any of the running gear. The basic body structures would be a good starting point for any wagon or coach you fancy drawing.

    The 6 wheeler is my classic never draw more that you need, there are all the parts modelled for a side and solebar, the roof is a mesh drawn on the 4 wheel project and imported, as are the head stocks and van end (they are identical), all it needs is a few mirrors to complete the body and chassis, again no axlebox/spring assemblies same reason as the 4 wheeler.

    The 4 wheeler looks like this:

    Screenshot 2023-10-28 171721.jpg

    The 6 wheeler:

    Screenshot 2023-10-28 172416.jpg
     
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  10. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Sorry though I had replied.. I believe that is about what you sent me..
    I need to look at working out the mirror option.. either that or it’s copy paste and rotate 180 with the two sides.
     
  11. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    If you export the model as an .f3d file rather than an .stl file, it is a solid body, so is easier to work on.

    Paul
     
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  12. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Given a halt in play while Andy decides which font to use on his block instrument, I spent this afternoon gluing together a pair of my test prints of the auto coach using super glue, an easy job, no, a right %$&** (which translates to a person with doubtful parentage). I think it could be possible with 6 hands, any way it done and tomorrow I'm going to a waft of primer over it just to see how bad is really is. I will load up a photo tomorrow. The second pair of test prints will be joined using resin and a light pen, that's definitely going to need at least 2 pairs of hands and given we are on half tern carer duty will have to wait until next week. I also test fitted the seating, sort of. A lot of filing down of the seat ends were necessary to finally get a fit. If/when I print a new set a 1mm slice will be taken out of them to make fitting easier.

    Another learning point is at the moment the two halves are designed with a joining plate from one half to the other. Next time around it will be printed separately and twice as long, the current one doesn't inspire and confidence.

    As a final aside, somewhere back up this thread we were debating all up weights and ways to lighten the load, so having got the seating fitted I weighted it up, so body, chassis and seating weighs just under 230 grams, that excludes the bogies and roof which Mr Dundee is kindly printing.
     
  13. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Gluing with resin and a light pen

    My original plan was to try using resin activated by a light pen to join the second pair of test bodies of the autocar next week, but this morning an opportunity arose as my wife and grand daughter have gone to a soft play area in town and won't be home till lunch time, so I have took the chance to try resin as glue, something I had no idea how to do.

    Arm with my shiny new UV light pen, a small quantity of resin, an old paint brush and some bits of scrap cured resin here we go. The light pen has multiple options of light source, I choose a circular source about 5-7mm in diameter and with a dab of resin on one surface and the second scrap on top, I fired up the pen for a 10 second exposure. Fixed, nope the resin was still liquid. Second go 3 separate 10 second bursts but again it failed, finally I moved to pen so it was almost touching the top scrap and use 3 10 second bursts, this time they were semi attached but not structurally sound, a bit of grubbing around and 2 more bits of scrap were found, this tine 5 10 second burst and hey ho, pretty solid. All of which suggested to be that the light pens power was no where near as powerful and my resin printer. The final test with yet more scrap was 5 10 sec burst very close and 3 more with the pen about 1cm away from the scrap. Much better, so armed with this knowledge on to the 2 halves of the test body.

    Initial I fixed the floor of the two bodies from inside the coach which worked pretty well, then worked from underneath, either side of the locating tongue worked well, what happened underneath I couldn't see, but it didn't feel go (a lack of power again?), so gave it quite a few more blasts. The sides were more problematical, not dissimilar to the super glue trying to get the sides aligned properly was the major problem one side I got pretty much spot on, the other, hmmm, but obviously it can't be undone, my school report would read 'must do better'.

    I then tried to give it extra curing using my cure machine, but given it wouldn't fit in under the lid had to try con the machine into think the lid was in place. Failed! It's now going to cure in daylight for a week or so and I will then give both bodies a waft of primer though I don't think ether will come up to scratch.


    light pen.jpg

    All up lots of lessons learned from both yesterdays super gluing and todays light pen test. I think over all the light pen method is going to be best, but with the locating tab separate I may well spot locate it with superglue first. Mr Dundee came up with a 3rd suggestion which was to mix resin with baby talc which he had read acted like a filler, that's something I may try at a later date.

    Mossy
     
  14. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    How about using hot glue to tag the parts together before using the resin.

    Slight delay in any printing at the moment - need to get the insulated doors fitted as the internal shed temp is between 5 & 7C, almost get icecubes in the resin.
    I have fitted the vat heater to the max and 1 resin bottle but now the remainder of the order has arrived I can now install and power the additional bottle warmer and the two Mono X vats.

    Also got a ecoheater HHT203 300mm 28W bar heater

    upload_2023-11-1_15-26-34.png

    It is thermostatically controlled, but even so, if left on at full power will only consume 0.76p per hour or £0.19 of electricity per day, (based on current price of 27.26p per kW/h) I can live with that.
    The 300mm width will fit nicely down the side. I'm thinking of getting a second one for the other end and having a wire rack above it to hold "inuse bottles".

    Hopefully normal service will be resume soon, seriously considering a boat after the amount of rain from Storm Babette, and now Storm Ciaran is about to hit the same areas. Please send useful storms, these are not drowning my grass, it's still growing - I think for air.

    Paul

    PS I have the roof but not the bogie files
     
  15. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Hi Paul,

    These initial tests have had the chassis integral with the body as they are being used as the primary alignment which is why you haven't got an stl of the chassis.
    If the chassis was printed separately then I would need to incorporate the floors as well, that would give me a raised rectangle around which I could align the two body segments.
    That's certainly an option worth thinking about especially since I have to reprint the bodies anyway, as neither of the tests are fit to be seen in public which why no photos.

    I'm currently trying to get Andy's block instrument finished off while the process is fresh in my mind and we are due to be away at the club hut this weekend - a 2 day walking trip assuming Ciaran doesn't put a spanner in the works, so it's going to be early next week before I get back to the autocar

    Sorry can't draw boats and if I could it wouldn't be big enough to fit an foot in let alone a body.
     
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  16. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Mossy

    I was a little confused, as "that excludes the bogies and roof which Mr Dundee is kindly printing" I thought I'd missed a set of files.
    Panic over ......

    A quick check in Chitubox for the unsupported model it estimates a further 53g for a single roof.
    And a correction for one of my previous posts, if you slice an image that is outwith the build plate boundaries it does not include the out of bounds bits in the weight calculation.

    The above mentioned roof laid flat on the build plate if sliced it reckons would weigh 47g
    upload_2023-11-2_9-51-43.png

    Whereas if rotated to 45 degrees slices to 53.3g

    upload_2023-11-2_9-50-6.png

    And the real kicker

    upload_2023-11-2_9-56-2.png

    With supports comes out at 135g, so approx 100g of wasted resin in supports per roof - ouch

    Paul
     
  17. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    upload_2023-11-2_10-6-47.png

    Estimates 12.5 hours to print, which is a bit like a UK / Scot Gov budget forecast - always way less than reality

    Paul
     
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  18. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    That's a lot of waste Paul, sadly unavoidable. You've been in Scotland a long time, it's the only part of the UK I that know uses outwith rather than with out! Might get the chassis sorted earlier than I thought, as I seem to have pull a muscle last night doing the cha cha chaaaaaaaaaa darling, %^%$£ ritual humiliation, which is going to ^%$$& the weekend trip.
     
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  19. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hows the saying about "silver linings" - and its not your fault....... er mmmmmm

    Started the print at 12:37 - took nearly an hour to get the resin upto 20C from 5C :confused:

    A wee quirk of the MAX printer it has a configurable setting for exposure compensation (on or off). It adds approx 40sec stabilisation to each layer. I have turned it off before the first layer prints, and just get a complete fail, so tend to leave it on for the first three layers then turn it off.

    Estimated print time on the first layer


    28 hrs

    Turned the Exposure Compensation off after 3 layers


    26 hours to go

    Out on Joe le Taxi stuff for the boss ..... 2 hours 50 mins later ........................


    23 hours 10 mins to go.................

    But does look like its stuck to the build plate

    I attached a bottle warmer to the auto fill reservoir bottle, and switched auto fill on - resin being pumped in at approx 21C :lol:

    Hopefully a pleasent update in the morning er sorry afternoon.

    Paul
     
  20. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    24 hours is one hell of a jump from 12.5, the body flat to the build plate jumped from 5+hrs to nearer 8hrs, so if you figure 12 is roughly 2 1/2 times 5, I expected the jump to be about 6-7 hours not 12. Perhaps this fancy m/c of yours has numerous tea or comfort breaks? You certainly don't want many failures or bog-up on those timings.
     

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