How do you create a plane which reflects a coach sides tumblehome, such that you can then sketch on it? Mossy
I too will be interested in your take on it. I have been looking at it myself and once I have it cracked I will take a video of how I did it. The method I know of involves spiting the entity once you have extruded it. Actually re-reading your post I think that I am not quite answering a different question...
Ok, Firstly sketch the side as normal. Then sketch the end with the tumblehome. On the end sketch isolate the tumblehome with a couple of lines and extrude it the length of the side. Pic below is the extruded portion. On the side sketch isolate the tumblehome with a line. Pic below - horizontal line splits the sketch into tumblehome section and straight section. Then extrude the side details using the tumblehome extrusion as an object. Back to the end sketch, extrude the rest of the side. Pic below the straight side section isolated and extruded. Back to the side sketch, extrude the details using the upper side as the object. As some furry creature says in an annoying advert simplessss! Result is this: The nasty line between the two extrusions is how Fusion depicts it but that will (should) disappear when printed. Mossy
Looks good, I must confess that the tumble home looks to start really low down but then I am more familiar with Gresley coaches where it starts at the waist line.
Rob, I think your right looks like I have some rechecking and redrawing to do but at least the sketching theory proved successful. And for a real joke, it doesn't fit my build plate by miles - I was just fiddling and trying to sketch different things. If I get it finished it will have to wait for a second hand mono x to appear dirt cheap.
Rob rebuilt with a revised tumblehome. Using the sketch from Ian Sadlers book it's basically a guesstimate where it starts. I decided to start it exactly in the middle of the horizontal rail because a) its easier to clean up if there's a problem and b) that's exactly where horizontal hand rails run, they would help cover up any bodges. I should have said its the Dia 60 luggage van later used as a fish van on page 52.
Nice I like it. If you were to split it around the doors in the same manner as Ian Kirk kits you would probably be able to print the three individual sections on your printer and stick them together. The joins would then be disguised as the door seams
Rob, it would only require 1 joint, best positioned down the c/l between the doors. That would leave only a very small area to cover up just above the doors: Ventilators need fitting to the upper panel of the doors along with slightly larger one central to the two side sections. Finding a disguise for the solebars would be a very different proposition as below the doors its frankly naked except for a location rivet/bolt for the W Iron.
For the solebar, pick an area without rivetsthe join. Make the sole bar with a brace on the back which will hold the 2nd piece in place. You could use either super glue and a drop of resin over the jion to act as a filler if needed. From above Paul
Does it have full length step boards? If so they would help to disguise the join. Ian Kirk's solebars are in 3 pieces. Another consideration is are the solebars set back under the sides as this would also help too.
Hi Rob, Yep full length step boards. Its a pity I didn't do the 24ft version as that has a step board brace almost exactly the depth of the solebar and exactly where you would split the van down one of the door hinge lines. Hey ho who knows whats next.
Forgot to add, as always fiddling about earlier today I put a side, end. solebar and drag bar into chuti just to see if it would fit. Well even angled at 60 degrees, it just doesn't quite fit, but if I do a side and end or a solebar and drag beam, both do fit. But what are the consequences of a print at 60 degrees along with the tedium of an almost 8 hour print run for each one? None of which would resolve printing the roof that's a very different ball game.
I'd be tempted to print the roof in two or three pieces, at or near verticle, with an overlap on the under side. Maybe even have a flat surface in the underside so that the roof could be clamped to a strip of wood or metal during the gluing together of the parts to keep them flat. Paul
OK gents is there a split function that would allow me to split bodies at a chosen point and retain both sides of the split?
Cheers Rob, By the looks of it I just have to get an offset plane in the right place, that could be fun.