An NSR Absolute Block instrument

Thanks Gary. There is a fair way to go yet, and we haven’t made the first cut yet.
Andy

 

Yesterday (Tuesday 12th) I received some contact from a gent in Scotland. He had a complete Tyres block instrument in his possession and would take me a few photos.
An hour or so later and 30approx photos arrived in my inbox via WeTransfer.

I was blown away by what he sent as they certainly filled a few gaps in the jigsaw and corrected a few errors I had made.

I will post a few to wet the appetite of what is to follow.


apart from the top panel, this is what I have to replicate. Peter’s has been stripped back and restored in a lighter colour since it came out of use, but I will be going back original of a dark Brazilian Mahogany.

from the inside.

from the bottom. We can start to see the panel shapes I need to replicate where it secures to the back and bottom sections.

here we can see the bottom edge trim. Not some after thought bodged on the outside, but part of the complete bottom edge.
side on.

glazing edging strip which is held on with small tacks.

inside back edge again, the screw in the lower edge is for the big hook on the bottom half to secure to. This holds the top half to the bottom.

on the inside the depth of wood up to the glass which we believe is 2mm glass. And finally the top. Showing the screws in to the front and sides.
The next post will show the full instrument and also the bell box which I’m missing.

Andy

 

During my conversing with Peter, who was ex S&T from the Glasgow region, he sent me some photos of his instrument complete.


although not quite correct, it looks nice in this finish and well cared for.

inside the lower door (which I have) is the dial. This works a number of contacts inside the back of the box (see next photo)
I’ve sadly noticed my lock has been sawn on mine too, so need to see if I can acquire a new door plate with the hooks.

here are the contacts inside.

the bell box mounted above. I need to see if one day I can source or make one of these.

inside the bell box


and the spaghetti junction on the back board.

that’s it for now..

Andy

 

Sadly, not really much to add at the moment,
The first 5x "A3" sized sheets have been printed with working diagrams on for the panels. I think I have 13 parts in total. The rest still need compiling which is for the next few days.
Peter in Glasgow has kindly sent me a key in the post, I'm just awaiting delivery, to see if We can get my lock to function. If the key works, they I will look to try and repair the keeper plate a little better than superglue!

I have turned my attention to the screws - some were stuck and others quite free. With a little grunt, most are coming loose ready for the big disassemble before cleaning back the wood of the bottom half of my unit.


Whilst lubricating with the WD40 to free some of the said screws, I've also managed to free up the needles and these swing nicely. they must work on an electromagnet as they swing to the "Line blocked" position by default with a smaller electromagnet having a latch for the middle "Train in line" reading. It all seems very simple but clever.



Hopefully more soon.

@Gary - yes, it has helped no end. Especially with the enthusiasm and support Peter has shown, its now just frustrating me that I cant get moving with it as quick as I would like. Work, family and a work collogues funeral will be taking up much of this week.

Andy

 

no, that’s why I did it in miniature!!

 

Best I can say is… it’s in the “to do” list.. but not sure how yet. I’m not sure if these were painted or some kind of water slide transfer?
I don’t think whatever I do will be cheap!
I’m open to suggestions!

 

I decided today having a spare 20 mins to just make a start to polish up some contacts.
I’ve also had the front off which showed the needles swing freely in their pivots. (I’m yet to fathom out how they come off) but the surfaces of the magnets behind are a tad corroded and this is why they stutter at the moment, although when the latch is lifted behind they do swing to line blocked.



The main contact surface on the rear of the door. The difference between dirty and clean. I hope I’m right in having given it a wipe with WD40 post clean?

the inside contacts. It will all have to come out one by one and be cleaned.
And cleaned up.

top of the front plate. 2 screws top and bottom and a brass pin locate it to the frame.
More soon.

 

Not a bad idea. May have to do some drawing up and saving! although I wouldn’t need an A4 sheet!

 

Don't quite follow ? You mean swing to line blocked ? Yes I think that would be the case incase there was some kind of failure??

 

Hi Yorkie,

yes I was forgetting the batteries. Seems odd we had that supply so long ago when some areas didn’t have gas or electric lights.
How were they charged? Was there a low power on the telephone circuit that could do this? I honestly have no idea/conception of how this would work.?

Andy

 

In theory in this digital age, that could be done. I had thought about seeing if I could program something on the auduino circuit board on the computer to “talk” the instrument and bell when I have one, but I’m not sure the power supply is sufficient. They work at 5v and I think I need just a tad more (im advised between 6-9v)
Andy