Highland Railway Dia 17 Jones Double Deck Sheep Wagon

Brilliant - just as well I've got a motorhome with all 4 wheels on the ground - I hope

 

Spent a bit of time making number plates up for the sheep vans - two batches, and a couple of plates for the later planked version which Pete Armstrong makes resin cast sides for, and I have bought a couple.



Note I now have the inner line in as well

Weather was not great and I couldn't be bothered to go out to the shed, so spent a bit of time on the Barney






Well I need something to pull these wagons.

Paul

 

Hi Andy

I think - (I just keep modifying the original plate sketch to make changes and the time line then cascades the changes through) the rim and letter height is 0.3 mm. The back being either 0.3 or 0.5mm, the 0.5 is when I put a 0.3mm recess into the sole bar - makes alignment a doddle. I scale up the plate by 5% then delete it from the solebar to give the recess. The plates are printed at 100%. I would say that that these scale incredibly well, the plate I made for Toto, was one of the plates drawn at approx 10mm wide and scaled and printed approx 8 inches - with no loss in quality.

The builders plates on the loco's will be interesting - I may even draw them at full size then scale down at the print stage.

Paul

 

A little more progress, however a wee bit of forward thinking now before I permantly join bits together. One of the reasons for pigking the Barney 0-6-0 class is that the boilers and tenders were interchangeable with the Small Bens. There is also only 2" difference in overall length.
The boiler as depicted below is as per HR days with the safety valves on the dome, in LMS days the safety valves were move to the fire box



So now is the time to start noting the differences e.g the front wing plate on the Barney merges with the front splasher / sand box, on the Small Ben a 4-4-0 there is no front splasher



So need to keep this as a serperate item for the moment. But with 1ft difference between the two loco wheel diameters the rear beading on the boiler will need to be adjusted



Then also make a copy of the bolier before putting the holes in for the injectors whistle and safety valves to allow an LMS variant.

Who said this was straight forward

Paul

 

NUTS

Height to the boiler center is 3" higher on the Small Bens than on the Barney's, both height to the Chimney top is 13ft so different chimneys for both locos, and the smoke box height will be slightly different but that may be livable as it woulb merge into the footplate

Back to playing, I will need to start and preheat the printer enclosure as I want to print the sheep van number plates as a test.

Paul

 

and on the subject of nuts - as noted on Mossy's thread

These arrived

M3 3D bushes. Designed for inserting / melting into FDM 3D prints, instead I will create a 4.6 mm dia socket for these to be inserted into and retained with super glue or epoxy.

Now back to the Sheep Van - finally

I needed to start and paint the model before final assembly

I removed the wheels, and placed pieces of insulation tape over the bearings.

As per normal - for me - primer coat of Vallejo Grey Surface primer (74-601) neat from the bottle.

The inside of the van body, upper and lower floors, and underside of the roof were sparayed with Tamiya XF78 Deck Tan diluted 50:50 with Tamiya X20 thinner.

The roof was then painted with Valleyo White primer (62-061) - again neat out of the bottle - including the outer edges of the underside

The body underside and running gear were sprayed with Valleyo Premium Black (62-020), also neat of of the bottle

No masking carried out, when I spray the body colour, the black over spray on the body will give a darkening of the colour and help with weathering later on.

The Deck Tan surfaces were now given a wash of black - this is a homemade wash, made from the remains of a jar Tamyia X1 Black thinned down heavily with X20 thinner.
Just liberally applied with the model held at an angle to encourage it to run.

A light dusting of white was applied to the floors to simulate lime wash used to steralise the vans.

So just about ready for body colour

But thats for later

Paul

 

and there's more

The number plates were sprayed Valleyo Black - no primer.

Then dry brushed with the white primer

Now started on the body colour

My first coats are with a custom Burnt Sienna mix - Scots and Yorkshiremen will be proud of me - Burnt Sienna from a cheap tube, mixed with Windsor and Newton Flow improover and thinner.
After about 4 coats we have

Allowing these to dry - actually it's dinner time - I decided to stop as I just keep applying thin coats one side at a time, continually rotating the model to the next side, this time I came to the first side then paint was still wet so time to stop.

Will apply more coats soon

The decision will come whether to stay with the Burnt Umber or add a couple of coats of Railmatch BR Bauxite to just darken the final effect.

Paul

 

Cheers John

I'd have thought these would be too early for you, or is the GNoS about to be resurected.

I do have a question, what numpty decided to build a model with a 152 bars to be hand painted and then print himself a half dozen of them


Now anyone desperate enough to follow this or Mossy's thread, would have picked up on discussions regarding resin types, with comments on detail v resilliance.



This is a cruel enlargement, but shows what we are fighting with when trying achieve "perfection".

The above number plates were printed at 45 degrees with a 0.05 layer height. Using ABS like resin. This is more resiliant than the Craftsman resin which we both prefer.
A wee bit of context the above plates are 11mm wide and 4.5mm high, and the dry brushing on the top 1794 and 1795 has enphasised the layer lines. The Letters on Highland Railway are less than 0.5mm high.
If this is our detail limitation on the model, I may learn to live with it

Now if you're wondering why I'm waffling rather painting, I have an excuse.

Another two coats of Burnt Sienna - what a difference. So started painting the bars, then noticed some of the edges were getting damaged, so I've set the model aside to harden up a bit.

But as a wee taster

Suppose I should print the remainig parts for the other wagons, now that the temp outside is alsmost a tropical 1C from the earlier -4C.

Should warm up to a resin friendly 20C by June.

Paul

 

If I could have stayed with the airbrush I'd be laughing, but this hand painting of all the iron work is a real pain.

The two liveries for the HR are Dark Red (more like a crimson) pre 1906, and Drummonds Brown described as a Bauxite / Burnt Sienna from 1906 onwards.

The model above the final fish is for a well weatherd model so I was going for a mottled appearance to the paint colour. The next brown van will have an initial base coat of bauxite, then the burnt sienna applied richer brown appearance.
For this one the dirt layer should even things out and the variation of base colour be just apparent - I hope.

Paul

 

Crosseyed and cramp, but we now have a model.

I also applied a coat of W5 Floor Care - bought years ago, and still most of a bottle left, but I've not seen it our smaller Lidl for some time .
But boy did the colour darken down.

And with the roof dropped on

Needs time to dry before applying the number plates

Paul

 

Hi Andy

Sorted

Actually stopped my fingers sticking to the roof. Number plate also fitted

And now the wheels

Needs another coat of sealant before weathering

Paul