Highland Railway Drummond 0-4-4T Passenger Tank

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by paul_l, Jan 11, 2019.

  1. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Thanks Rob

    The green is a little darker in the flesh - the flash seems to lighten the tone.

    Ordered up the gaming metalic set from Vallejo, plus a Premium (60ml rather than the normal 17ml) of black, white and gloss.

    upload_2021-5-9_9-9-41.png

    Hopefully it should be useful.

    Paul
     
  2. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Is that Eau De Nil? :giggle:

    For a red buffer beam I believe yellow is the best undercoat. Something I learnt from a games workshop guy. :cool:
     
  3. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Cheers Andy

    Tried a second coat and is still too dark.

    Checked with the "Highland Railway Liveries" by Howard Geddes and Eddie Bellas, and for the 1915 - 1922 period Body is Moss Green, with Vermillion buffer beams with Moss Green Buffer shanks.
    As built (1905 - 06) they would have a body colour of Dark Olive Green, and the same applied to both buffer beams and buffer shanks, and may have had livery change to Light Moss Green between 1912 - 15, unlikely as few loco's were given this livery.

    Suppose the question should be - how often did the railways repaint thier locomotives ?

    Paul.
     
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  4. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Usually after a heavy general repair
     
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  5. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Ok so I've got too much time on my hands - the boss is busy today and it's raining outside - YES!!!! - I knew there was a good reason to live in Scotland

    Delivery from Amazon


    Two sets of metalic colours -

    On the left the Model colour Metallic set - Art 70118
    Contains
    70-800 Gunmetal Blue
    70-801 Brass
    70-863 Gunmetal Grey
    70-878 Old Gold
    70-996 Gold
    70-997 Silver
    70-998 Bronze
    70-999 Copper

    On the right the Game Colour Metallic set - Art 72303
    Contains
    72-052 Silver
    72-053 Chainmail silver
    72-055 Polished Gold
    72-056 Glorious Gold
    72-057 Bright Bronze
    72-058 Brassy Brass
    72-059 Hammered Copper
    72-060 Tinny Tin

    All of these paints are designed for brush painting, but can be tinned for spraying.

    The tests below are for the brass / copper colours.

    I created a test card by spraying a piece of cardboard with Vallejo Grey Surface primer.
    Then an additional 3 strips of colour, Vallejo White surface primer, Vallejo Premium Black Airbrush Colour, and Tamiya XF26 Deep green.


    The next two pics show the result of brush painting the colour over the coloured backgrounds. The photo's were taken at slightly different angles no flash, but the light source is a cool white led lamp.



    Only a single coat was applied, the Game colours seemed to go on thicker, that didn't suprise me as they are aimed at gamers - hence the more flowery names.

    For the GWR readers that may accidentally landed on this post - firstly thank you, for a copper chimney I'd be tempted to go with the 72-059 Hammered Copper from the Game Color range on a green base coat, and highlighted with the 72-058 Brassy Brass also from the Game Color range, and you'll get away with one coat.

    For the brass colour I'm after, mmmmm ........ I'm tending towards the 72-056 Glorious Gold from the Game Color range on a black or green base coat highlighted with either
    70-801 Brass or 70-878 Old Gold from the Model Color range.

    What do you think ?

    Paul
     
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  6. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    It's hard to tell when looking at them on screen, I have the old gold and chainmail silver.

    I resprayed this Rolls Royce with Chainmail silver.

    It coated really well without any spraying issues due to thick pigments etc. Which I had feared might be a problem when I started.

    IMG_1857.jpg
     
  7. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Cheers Rob

    I tried my selection of a base of Glorious Gold


    Followed by a highlight coat of Brass


    Still looked a little too coppery, so I applied another highlight coat of Polished Gold

    Without flash - sorry for the camera shake


    and with flash


    On the photo without flash the colour looks very similar to the brass handrails.

    All paint applied by brush.

    Paul
     
  8. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    A little more progress today, but generally more of a lazy day - need to enjoy it best as I can, as my daughter has informed I'm making her a greenhouse, and she already has the plants ready to go in - no pressure then. Does she not realise my gardening and construction skills lie in either 1:76 or 1:43 scales not 1:1 :whatever:

    Cab interior masked out and two coats of Tamiya Buff applied by brush


    A little cleaning up required, but almost ready for a gloss coat.

    The roof was also painted black - Vallejo Premium Airbrush Black, neat from the bottle.


    That leaves me with the real body to do.

    Again using the Vallejo Black, the smoke box, footplate and underside were painted.




    Just need to allow this to harden then mask up ready for the green body colour.
    And decision time, do I paint it in the Dark Green for circa 1915 to 1922, or paint it Dark Olive Green (I've ordered up a pot of Railmatch SR Dark Olive green) circa 1905 to 1912.
    Which would allow me to model the WW1 period.

    The Vallejo paint gives nice coverage. I may try thiining it down, but have been warned its best to use Vallejo thinner as water and IPA don't work that well. No doubt I'll find a victim to test it on.

    Paul
     
  9. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    While playing I decided to create the whistle

    upload_2021-5-12_0-54-17.png

    Just need to print it now.

    Need to create a folding vacuum pipe for the front - the original folds to allow the smokebox door to open. Then brackets for the front sandpipes

    Paul
     
  10. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I’ve wondered about vacuum pipes for the Dapol 08, as they look very under sized, yet actually they scale out… but how to draw the ribs? Lots of little donuts?
     
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  11. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Andy

    Maybe a screw thread, rounded off and compressed.

    Or make the main structure with a hole for a guitar string to be inserted for the hose, time for a bit of laying I think.

    Paul
     
  12. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    When I've made vacuum pipes for my OO gauge locos, (the older less detailed ones) I have used copper wire stripped from electric cable, the solid domestic type, then wrapped single strand copper wire taken from everyday multi core flex. A short piece of brass tube soldered to the end to finish it off then filed to get the correct looking length. It probably takes less time than it's taken me to write this post. For O gauge I think some heavier gauge wire would do the same job.

    Cheers, Pete.
     
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  13. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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  14. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I was more thinking 3D printed?
    But I do like your thinking!
    Andy
     
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  15. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Andy

    Playing with 123D and trying to adapt this to try and form the hose.



    Need to play more with it as I'm not getting it to follow the path correctly, but by doing a few donuts at a time (something I've always managed to cope with - especially sugar coated ring donuts), I can tweak, then do the next few.

    Paul
     
  16. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Not sure how it would come out but really each ring should be rounded so they really are donut shaped. For those who don’t know, it’s like a large spring inside the rubber to give it flex but also to make it more harder for the guard to couple two up, especially if Carriage and wagon dept haven’t quite set the end on the pipe at the correct angle.

    7E56A0E5-5E62-41EE-9807-DFB93209E73A.jpeg
    here we can see someone struggling. There are two forks on the end of each one and a curve pin at the other end. So you have to have a little twist. New pipes are quite stiff.
    C76B7D05-C628-4D02-9E94-EDC316F332BB.jpeg

    There are also a number of angles that they go through to get there! Which varied loco to loco.

    AAF08D09-A68A-477F-9159-A4AADFD1A8DC.jpeg
    then there is the stowed position, as where most folk will normally model them.. totally wrong but we can’t really fix them up like couplings when forming a train, so here is where we compromise. You can see the hook at the top of where the pipe goes on to the dummy. The forks then have a split pin through them to stop it coming off.. although should the rubber seal on the end be good, the vac should hold it in place. (you only use 1 pin to hold it between stock, and if there is a failure the idea is that it pulls off at the jubilee clips… doesn’t always work though due to the various angles… thankfully, I’ve not broken one yet!)

    55B3505C-76D4-49E2-9CB6-DE20DB9040E5.jpeg
    The tail end showing the forks and the hook. (Although they don’t seem to have the slot for the split pin.)
    All stock images from google to illustrate.
     
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  17. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I didn’t realise till after I posted that it was a video you had posted not your photo! :facepalm:
    I’ve just started watching it.. after 6 years using the program I’ve just learnt something new! :scratchchin::thumbs: I’ve never used lofting from drawings. (Never used drawings, only ever solids!)

    may have to give that a try!
     
  18. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    oops forgot to include the screen shot as well for progress so far
     

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  19. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Bit more progress

    upload_2021-5-13_11-16-13.png

    Just for a sense of scale

    upload_2021-5-13_11-16-49.png

    The inner tube diameter is 1mm

    Paul
     
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  20. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Almost there

    upload_2021-5-13_11-44-49.png

    Paul
     
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