Highland Railway Drummond 0-4-4T Passenger Tank

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by paul_l, Jan 11, 2019.

  1. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    Are you removing bearings before painting? Just interested (and learning) best way to go about things with resin. if not, how are you masking?
     
  2. Walkingthedog

    Walkingthedog Full Member

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    Will the connecting rods be strong enough. Surely they will need to be made of metal.
     
  3. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Andy - Normally I would remove the bearings - but in my enthusiasism I glued these in place :facepalm:

    I have blue masking tape so will use that, I did paint the bogie by hand without any masking.

    Hi Brian - I believe you're right, but thought it would be worth a try, afterall some of the model manufacturers have plastic coupling rods. I will say the wheels are really free running, and with the bushes fitted may survive a little while - until I learn how to draw up the coupling rods in Inkscape and produce some etched ones.

    Paul
     
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  4. Walkingthedog

    Walkingthedog Full Member

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    I agree about plastic rods but I have quite a few 3D printed figures and they are not particularly strong and can be quite brittle. Metal rods can get bent fairly easily and plastic ones usually have a bit of elasticity.
     
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  5. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Hi Paul,
    Despite being very proficient with Inkscape, I have really struggled to produce files for etching using Inkscape. In my opinion it's really not up to it.

    I am now learning QCAD which has a free version but I have shelled out the £40 for a licensed version. Over the years I have tried multiple CAD packages both free and bought, and I couldn't get to grips with any of them until I tried QCAD.

    I am currently drawing up an NER V3 brake van and this is where I have got to so far

    V3 brake van  cad drawing.jpg
     
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  6. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Rob

    Thanks for the heads up regarding Inkscape.

    I have tried Solid Edge -I use the free version, but its not open source.

    Paul
     
  7. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    G`day Paul,
    I`ve just been catching up as I`ve been away up North for a while.
    Tremendous progress and the loco is looking great.........how would Loctite be for fixing your bearings into chassis etc...???.........or would it react unfavorably with the resin..???
    If it is suitable, it has a slow set time allowing for adjustments to get things just right.
    :tophat:Gormo
     
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  8. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Progress has been a bit slow this week - wish I could blame work got in the way, but I did get my Covid jag (Scottish for jab - don't know if the origin is you feel a wee prick when you first get it, followed by the feeling of superiority :avatar:).

    And the Dog had 19 teeth removed, £500 for a toothless smile, enough of the excuses, here is the limited progress.

    The chassis was stripped down, and the brake mounts


    and sandboxes glued in place


    And given a coat of grey primer.


    Some numpty forgot to take photo's of the matt black paint job. I used Humbrol 33 Acrylic paint, diluted 1 part paint to 2 parts Tamiya X20 thinner.

    Next up plunger pickups

    Front axle


    Rear axle


    Wires connected to the pickups


    And threaded through the gaps in the motor mount


    Flywheel added to the motor.


    Next up is to strip down the bogie and fit the plunger pickups.

    A strip of copper clad sleeper with a gapped in the middle will be fitted under the flywheel for all the pickup wires to be connected, with a pair of wires initially going to the motor, and after running in will go to the DCC decoder.

    Paul
     
  9. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    A bit of a delay, when fitting the sprung pickups to the bogie I broke the plunger housing.

    So I needed to print up a pair of bogie sides. While at it I thought I'd finally give the Eco resin a try. I used the same cure settings as for normal AnyCubic Grey resin.

    First comment of the resin - I didn't notice the smell, unlike the IPA used in part of the wash process. The final model feels harder, and drilled easier / cleaner, so looks like I will be changing my standard resin, once I've used all my remaining standard resein.


    I've not painted bogie side frame and still need to wire up the bogie.

    Paul
     
  10. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    So what’s the drawback of using this water washable resin? Why are we not all using it as a default?

    I may have to follow suit and give it a try. Can’t seem to find stock of grey 1ltr at the moment.

    where did you source it from as I normally use Evilbay?
     
  11. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    I’ve had issues with some parts being brittle.. had a few parts snap on me just removing the scaffold.
     
  12. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Andy

    The first drawback is the price, approx 50% dearer than the standard resin. However, you don't need IPA which probably makes the price similar.
    I still used IPA to clean down the build plate, and final rinse. But for the next print will make up a batch of the yellow / green Tesco's Lemon multisurface cleaner for the Ultrasonic cleaner and see how it goes.

    Anycubic Resin Grey 500ml £16.99 - Amazon
    Anycubic Eco Resin Grey 500ml £26.99 - Amazon

    Andy at present the price of two 500ml bottles is cheaper than a 1 litre bottle (£39.99).
    I use 1 bottle for the current in use resin, and just keep topping that bottle up as required, so no used resin gets returned to the unused resin bottle.

    Paul
     
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  13. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    That`s looking very crisp Paul.
    Right from the start I`ve been thinking that it`s an unusual looking loco and I think that`s down to the wheel arrangement.
    There`s nothing wrong with unusual, but I reckon most modellers would do a double take when they first see it.
    I like it and I like the way you`ve brought it together.......:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:
    :tophat:Gormo
     
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  14. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Thanks Gormo

    the 0-4-4T was quite a common wheel arrangement - especially amongst Scottish Chief mechanical engineers, and as a lot of them emigrated to the south of England the design caught on down there as well, predominately for passenger roles.
    For modellers the main issue with the wheel arrangement is getting weight above the driving axles, as the models tend to be rear heavy, hence my intension to fill the smoke box with lead.

    Paul
     
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  15. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Plunger pickups wired up - the red wires will get painted black but not just yet.



    All wheels have pickups


    I have a plan, or even as Baldrick would say a cunning plan - I will use a 2 pin molex connector to couple the bogie to the pickup block, and a 4 pin connector to either loop the connectors for DC direct to the motor (for the run in period) or to connect the track and motor connections to the decoder.

    That will be a little later - need to find the vero board.

    I've also had a go at the cab steps, two versions on test, one with 1.0mm thick steps the other with 0.7 mm thick steps.

    upload_2021-4-8_17-22-6.png

    Now printing, just need to wait an hour or so.

    until later

    Paul
     
  16. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    woooops

    I have an issue with my veri-near caliper, in this case it occationally adds a few mm to the zero value and if you forget to measure twice and zero each time you end up with this


    :facepalm: :hammer: :headbanger:

    Not is all lost - note the blue cutting lines, a wee trim with the flush cutters and we have


    Now this solves another issue I had forgotten about, initially the recess was designed for 15 to 20 thou brass, not 2mm thick plastic, so I would have had to file down the chassis. This fix avoids that :thumbup:

    Roughly held in place by the water tank balance pipes



    This is the 0.7mm thick steps.

    and the start of the cunning plan for the electrics


    The center two tracks are for the track feeds, the track outside of each of them is the motor feeds

    The 2 pin plug and socket are for the bogie pickups so will connect to the middle tracks, and the four pin plug and socket to connect the motor and track feeds to the DCC decoder or looped to each other for DC use.


    The plugs will be fed through from the insulated side and soldered in place.

    Paul
     
  17. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    I like the 2 and 4 pin PCB sockets Paul, useful bits. Can I ask where you got them from as I've not seen this type, only the flying lead type which I've used before. Are plugs available from the same source and presumably they're non-reversible?
    Keith.
     
  18. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Keith

    Not the same ones I bought in 2018 - that took some purchase history search :whatever:, I blame the boss as the account is in her name - fortunately I set the password :twitch:
    But these are the same spec

    JST connector kit - Amazon

    [​IMG]

    The 2.54 (1/10th inch) pitch is the same as vewro board, looks non reversable.

    Paul
     
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  19. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Cheers Paul, just ordered a set. I see it mentions that a crimp tool is required, I have one from work days so that should do, though I will probably solder each rather than crimp, can't help being "Old School"!:giggle:

    Keith.
     
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  20. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    That`s a neat electrical pick up solution on the rear wheels.
    It`s all looking rather professional and will only get better
    :tophat:Gormo
     
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