Mossys 3D Models

Paul

The test were simply 'out of interest' and not finalised but parameters you asked for are:

Z height 8mm
Density 50%, thickness I think is 4mm
Chassis 2mm thick
No sacrificial supports - yet
Could easily print the Irons and Steps separately
Chassis in test was upside down

Both tests were angle 45 degrees on the Y plane, the chassis upside down, the rear of the body was the low point. The body test resulted in parts of the skate being chopped off, but with a bit of movement none of the supports were compromised, upping the angle a few degrees should resolve that problem.

I think on every print that I have monitored the Chitu timings are always too high, the initial print time displayed too low, actual a happy somewhere in between, this applies to both Mono and Mono X timings.

 

I had a second test run taking in Paul suggestions to remove the steps and running irons, all other parameters/orientations remained the same.
These changes reduced the body print run to 10 hrs, i.e. a 15 minute reduction, a new test was also done checking the number of slices and unsupported slices. Of the 4136 slices 38 were unsupported (these need further investigation). The chassis test didn't produce any reduction of print timing, of the 3438 slices 8 were unsupported.

All very interesting but I will be using a combination of auto supports and then revising these manually especially trying to reduce the number of unsupported slices.
Now back to finishing the print bodies and setting out the bodies in Chitu.

 

Sorting out and deleting multiple versions of the loco body and chassis, I came across a project titled back head I knew I had made a start on one but had little memory of it getting this far. I assume the missing water gauges are because I have a nice pair bought from Gladstone, anyway one little job that just needs finishing off. It's all a bit conjectural as there are no known photos or drawing of the back head of a NER loco of this age, anyway it will barely be seen. A question, there are 2 injectors under the footplate below the cab, should there therefore be 2 injector valves on the footplate?

 

Thanks Tom that's really useful

I don't need the steam heating gear, this A will be as built. What are the 4 gauges on the cab front plate, I presume the big right one is the air pressure gauge as its attached to the brake gear, another must be the steam pressure gauge (lower left?), but what are the other 2? I also need to modify the hand wheels. I guess the wheel behind the reverse lever is the blower valve control but would like to know what the 2 lower left are.

All up I a redraw being necessary.

Mossy

 

Thanks again Tom, since there's no steam heating that's one less for the Class A back head I agree the blower would need moving to the right side. I have decided to scrap the existing back head and start again. Early stages but I've got this far this afternoon

 

Ok another fix needed but easy done. Just for interest my original back head was drawn using the white metal casting as supplied for the now Gladiator J21 but previously multiple suppliers. At a guess just a generic back head for multiple kits.

 

Tom,

Since you seem to be able to magic up anything and anything do you have a diagram of a Westinghouse brake.

Cheers Mossy

 

The easy fix to the fire hole turned into another redrawing session which was finished about 30 mins ago, so the back head looks like this now.

 

The easy fix to the firebox hole turned into another redraught session finished about 30 mins ago. I think the steam pressure gauge is still a bit big so that's next to address.

 

Opps just spotted a deliberate mistake - Fixed. Nope still wrong, grrrrrrr

 

Now done

 

Rob

I agree about your unlikely to get damaged comment. As for the pipe work each of the gauges has a small pilot hole drilled into the pipe feeds, I plan using copper wire for the actual pipe runs, as for the gauges well brass should be brass, sadly I can't 3d print brass so they will have to be painted. I also have a Griffin back head kit, but it looks nothing like those in Toms photos. The Griffin whistle pipe work looks really good, but will a real brass part clash with painted brass, so I have also drawn the pipework up to the cab roof and have a pair of brass whistles for the cab roof.

As for what can and can't be seen, you have infected me, model it even if most of it can't been seen. This back head as been a chunk of work but I also have a 95% built class B (the Gladiator kit) back dated to it's NER configuration which it can be used in and 2 J21's which will be back dated to Class C. Those may well need the back head modifying a bit but it will be a good starting point.