Mossys 3D Models

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by Mossy, May 19, 2022.

  1. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Well trying to blow some undercoat on to the C2 to highlight things failed miserably so a new test using craftsman is under way.

    The D5, with the test bodies above I had to cut all the inside bolt away to fit the floor.
    bolts.jpg

    Having check the brake gear changes for the D5 were ok I started another experiment. Two floors were printed in ABS, one has been cured the other hidden in a dark space. Would a cured floor have the flexibility to drop into a body without having to remove the internal bolts. With the cured floor and an uncured floor yes the floor went in with only minor problems. A second D5 body will be printed this time an uncured floor and an uncured floor will be used in the test. I suppose a cured floor with a cured body would be the ultimate test, but the D5 is a twin not a treble.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2023
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  2. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Andy

    Despite 1 1/2 years of working from home through lockdowns and 2 years of retirement, I have only advanced my wake up time from 4:30 am to 5:30-6 ish so plenty of early morning time to play, then add in waiting times between print runs, throw me you top 2 or 3 ideas and let's see where things go from there.
     
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  3. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Conclusions from the last few days

    Hires stl's will be a norm from now on, probably with all parts but certainly wagon bodies.

    Thinking a bit more testing floor fitting with both bodies uncured would be easy given the results of the cured/uncured test so I bit the bullet and cured both bodies, as with the first test given the flexibilities of the ABS it was a pretty straight forward job and fitted very neatly.

    Given all the messing about what do I think ABS would be good for, definitely bodies which are vulnerable and easily caught like brake gear and possibly running gear, floors which can be added later to a body print, I'm less sure about wagon bodies etc the results don't seem to be as good as craftsman. I hope it's got a long shelf life as I have 3 litres of the stuff and barely used any from the first open bottle.

    As a final thought and possible test would be using an uncured body and floor and using liquid resin to act as the glue during curing. An obvious question would be how would 2 different resins bond together.

    A few pic's the one of the D5's (minus brake gear)

    6C3A8063.jpg 6C3A8066.jpg

    The C2, end great, side not satisfied with so needs thinking about.

    6C3A8071.jpg 6C3A8067.jpg
     
  4. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Probably a little too modern, but I can think of some BR hopper wagons! (I think the loco idea may just be on the side burner for a while.)
     
  5. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Andy

    I'm not ageist but have to say the only semi-modern hopper I have drawn was a complete disaster when I tried to print it but happy to give another one a go.
     
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  6. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I'll sort out which one is preferable.
     
  7. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Andy

    No probs as and when, with as many diagrams/photos as you can muster.
     
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  8. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    A pair of D5 twin bolsters assembled but not completed. I should have spare bolsters but I can't find them, hmmmm. Buffers I have 2-3 sets of sprung whitemeatl buffers along with lots of my own big Jim style buffers, I haven't yet decided which to use. Over all please with the results tho as usual I had a right fight with the brakes, why can't I get them right, grrr.

    6C3A8072.JPG 6C3A8074.JPG
     
  9. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    What’s the brake issue??

    bear in mind there is an error on the back to back with O when scaling down from full size.. so wheels will stand more inside the frames…

    but hey, you knew that :facepalm: grandma and suck eggs..
     
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  10. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Like me Mossy sometimes struggles to get the brakes in the right orientation when working upside down. I have said T shirt in every colour in the rainbow....
     
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  11. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Thank god for single shoe brake systems, see what you get when you go for these fancy 1900's based systems :avatar:

    Paul
     
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  12. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    In which case, if it’s not seen (on the inside) put some kind of mark on the brake rigging so you know which is an internal side and which is external?
    That way you can mark In1 and In 2 For the two models and then put a 1 and a 2 on the base of the wagon so you again know which side it refers to. And with the resin, it doesn’t need to be that deep and so it won’t show much post painting even if you did look for the mark.
     
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  13. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Andy What’s the brake issue??

    I suffer badly from wwabtfudjpc dysfunctionality - wrong way around, back to front, upside down, just plain clumsy but don't ask me to pronounce it.

    Go 1 Got as far as floor axle boxes and brave V fitted, then realised I had used brake V's for a 7mm deep chassis, the D5 is 6mm. Thrown in bin.
    Go 2 Better added brakes, pin racks and brake levers. For some reason I fitted the pin rack/ brake levers first, then realised they were on the wrong way around. Thrown in bin.
    Go 3 Dropped it after fitting axle boxes and brake V's, drop it and snapped off boxes and v on one side. Guess way thrown in bin.
    Go 4 Fitted brakes to the left wagon, moved on to righthand wagon and realised brakes hung too low (and not the china man). Finally got the righthand wagon sorted by filing off about .5mm, went back to lefthand wagon and decided not worth trying to fix problem BUT fixed the sketches/bodies so next time around they will fit.
    Still thinking about building a new left wagon.

    In the mean time I have been playing with my "not going well" S4 hopper but having to use ABS as there is only a dribble of craftsman left, reorder due Thursday/Friday.
    First print of the body the sides deformed inwards, they should be vertical sadly I forgot this, scend print using a Hires stl exactly the same result as you can see in the photo, the side deforms inwards and then outwards back to their correct position. Back to the drawing board with more supports.

    The other debate the sides/ends are .75mm thick and most of the supports .5mm think, the first time around I removed the supports before curing and at least 3 support legs snapped, so given the properties of ABS should I wait till after curing.

    6C3A8076.JPG
     
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  14. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Tell me how this works. This morning I printed off the chassis and axle boxes for the S4, like a fool I forgot to add supports for the chassis as this sceen grab shows its floating in the air.

    Screenshot 2023-03-15 104616.png

    The result? A perfect print of the chassis.

    6C3A8080.JPG
     
  15. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Witchcraft!!!
     
  16. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    I've been digging about since the previous post and assume the slicing process has plonked it direct onto the build plate, but when I removed it I didn't notice that. It can't of been hanging in mid air during the print process I'm not a magician.
     
  17. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Progress at last. This morning the chassis and axle boxes printed successfully followed by all the brake gear. Empirically some of the smaller bits occasionally fail so I always print 3 of every thing, a) because of failures and b)cos I'm a clumsy b......., yep 2 minor pieces had a single failure each and 2 of the 3 brake yokes failed. Strange isn't it, import and support 1 then copy twice, so all 3 are identical, so why do 2 fail? Another of life's mysteries. Finally this afternoon I printed of the body and with infinite care (not my strongest trait) cut away all the supports - success at the third attempt. The photo below shows how complex the support structures are along with how thin the sides are, the photo was taken in dull light and rain, it will look better when cured. I suspect assembly will be a complete trial, a naughty thought was to send 2 complete sets of bits to Rob to assemble except I don't know if they all fit together properly.

    6C3A8083.JPG
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2023
  18. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    If it works don't question a gift from the printing Gods. Of course, now you're going to spend ages trying to figure it out - and they gotcha again :facepalm: :avatar:

    If it printed on the base plate, there will be an elephants foot on the bottom edge.

    I'm not even going to try this one :avatar:

    Body is looking good tho

    Paul
     
  19. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I strongly believe some of it is down to where it is placed on the fep and the tension of the fep.

    You are not alone with these odd failures.

    Andy
     
  20. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Paul,

    Yes there is a tiny edge running around the bottom of the chassis, which proves it printed direct onto the base plate, well it had didn't it. Obviously the chitu slice logic shifted it from floating in the air. A supported reprint is in order as it slightly interferes with the fit of the axlebox assemblies.

    A better photo of 6 of the 7 major components fitted together but not glued. The 6th the hopper doors is an awful fit and needs investigating.

    6C3A8105.JPG
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2023

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