A day and a half later it's finally stopped raining in Leeds so as promised photos of the R3 and it's Bruce's bonus the P5. Bodies just plonked on the chassis R3 Coke on the NER3 chassis and the P5 on the Type 1 chassis. So a question for everyone. All the literature describes the planks on top of the R3 as "raves", I thought raves were debauched dance meets with techno music in the 1990's and 2000's. So why in the late 19th century is a plank of wood a rave?
Oxford English Dictionary Rave: a rail of a cart. A framewok added to the sides of a cart to increase capacity. (Circa 16th century). The other type of rave are still happening so I am given to understand.
Now that’s interesting… I’ve always known them as “greedy boards” or “rails” depending on where they are placed.. Rave is a new one on me!
Thanks Brian didn't think to look in the OED silly me. As for the 1990's version of a rave, according to my kids my musical tastes are said to be stuck in a time warp and end in the mid 1970's. Andy I have to say I quite like greedy boards, rails are a bit boring.
Last one for today, The tiny S1 Ironstone hopper I have had the body winking at me for ages but screwed up the chassis, so this afternoon a fresh chassis and brake gear has been printed. So there are now 3 awaiting building all three should fingers crossed have working brake gear. At least thats the plan..
Disaster struck yesterday.. though it had been going well.. Also put a ding in the fep so it’s drain, clean and swap.
Andy, Been there got the tea shirt, a messy job and down right annoying, you would think the boffins could find something more robust that FEP.
I must admit that I have always known them as 'raves' whether fitted to wagons or more frequently seen on tenders to increase the coal capacity. Like you my musical tastes ended in the last century, albeit in my case at the end of the 1980s
I thought they were used for Coke rather than coal, being lighter the raves or greedy boards - I've heard both names used - allowed a greater volume of coke to be loaded to hit the same weight. The Highland Railway also used raves to allow 4 plank opens to be used for sheep .
Hi Andy Looks like the original smooth build plate rather than the newer etched checker board build plate. With the smooth type I found a black deposit seemed to become engrained in to the surface and seemed to effect adhesion. I ended up using Acetone to clean the surface - then a further cleaning with IPA. I haven't had the same issue on the checker board plates. The checker board etched surface also improves adhesion on the model to the plate. I have purchased spare build plates for both of my Mono X printers. Allows me to drain the resin from the finished prints for a few hours, while the second plate is fitted and the next print started. Paul
Both my build plates are smooth, I clean them with IPA ever day before doing any printing. It's amazing how much black crap comes off the plate, never tried using Acetone first that an experiment I will try out.
Cheapest form of Acetone is nail varnish remover - the cheaper the better and without lanolin or any other skin care additive - Tesco supply it in the makeup section. Hence the reclean with IPA to remove anything greasy the nail varnish leaves behind. The checker board build plates have never shown this issue so there must be some form of sealing action or coating. I bought 3 of the checker board plates, 1 for Mono X No.2 and two for Mono X No.1. Not a cheap investment, but through put on the printers is higher, and I recoup more resin by giving the plates longer to drain. It's easy to set them up as well. Level the first plate as normal - Insert paper supplied template. Slacken off the four screws on the plate, press home. Hold plate to template and Tighten plate screws. Set to Zero and raise the plate. Fit second plate, do all of the above but dont press the zero button. You now have two plates that are interchangeable. Paul
Paul I bought 1/2 a gallon of neat acetone off ethief it was plenty cheap <£20, I use it for cleaning any gunk off the wire basket etc, so have more than plenty, but if your using IPA to clear any residual from your nail varnish, I might just switch to acetone, though IPA seems to work as well. AS you know I have 2 plates for my Mono X, 1 from the duff beastie, but have often though 2 for the Mono would be good, just a simple problem my arm is so short my hand doesn't reach the debit card. A Yorkshire thing really
Interesting chaps.. And I have only recently started getting gunk in the wire basket, normally I only have water in my wash tub, the IPA rinse done in a big jar. I also found one of those UV lights is good for curing the resin out the IPA after a while.. may even try it in the curing cabinet! Unless anyone recommends otherwise of course! No idea why it hadn’t stuck. It had all been wiped down from the last print.
Some how this morning my nice grey S1 hopper has become a horrible pink colour, how to I get it back to boring grey? I know it makes no difference I woild just like to know what I have done.
If you press the letter A on your keyboard it will bring up 'Appearances' you can apply different colours from there. No idea how you changed it in the first place.
I thought you'd had a leak from the Apricot / Beige craftsman resin bottles - it gets everywhere Paul