Paul, I have manged to disable something or other not sure how or why, but still not fixed the basic problem of putrid pink, grrrrrrrr.
S1 Hopper build. A design going back to the mid 19th century and so old and obscure that neither the article in the NERA Express or Tatlow vol 3 can offer up running numbers the only photos I have found are of an S1 reduced to a waste wagon with a BR running number of E902678, which is definitely not my era of interest. This is one of those hoppers with a very narrow drag beam so precious little room between the solebars. After an awful lot of though trying to figure out how to spring the buffers I gave in and went for rigid buffers (Rob a challenge when you get your copy), second problem I couldn't even get a standard wheel set between the solebars so had to cut off the axle pin points plus a bit and go for non-compensated wheel sets. So why this one first, well it's the first one that convinced me I could get working brakes, so despite all the above I decided to go for it. More thinking and I realised once the brake gear was in place trying to fit the sprung coupling in place would be far to much for my humble skills. So build sequence to date, fit buffers and screw couplings, fit W irons and wheel sets, add horse loops, fit body, fit brake rachets to end which get me to here: Now the fun starts and I am still debating which way to go but have half a plan. Do I fix the brake lever and linkage first and build the brakes etc afterwards, or vice versa. Even the usual tannin and nicotine fix hasn't resolved it yet so more later.
Rain (my ^%&*) stopped play, oh well best place schemes and all that, how I don't know but the vital part of the brake gear that links the brake lever assembly to the brake gear is 5mm to short. Time to get the printer fired up!
it's good it amuses you guys, but anyone got any ideas how to get it back to my beloved dull boring normal grey, pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Yes, as Rob said, click on the item then either press A ? Or right click and scroll down to appearance.. in there should be some settings of what item you want.. have a play. Make it transparent glass! Steel, wood..
Fourth go and finally working brakes. Not the easiest to photo but the best I could do for now, just needs linking to the brake lever now. Lots learned and a couple of changes to make. Brakes on and how it fits together Brake off A rough explanation of how it works: The vertical link from the brake lever to the cranked horizontal link is hinged at each end. Moving the lever down creates an upwards move of the vertical link. The Cranked link is free to rotate about a .9mm rod (the weight shaft) and the up move of the vertical link a) transfers the movement through 90 degrees and b) creates a clockwise rotation of the cranked link. The brakes are fitted to a separate .7mm rod, linked to the opposite end of the cranked link and are push down onto the wheel creating a braking action. Reverse all this and the effect is to pull the brakes up and off the wheels. As that neurotic rat thing would say simplessss, sort of. I just need to get it all refined now.
Thanks Paul, that version has been destroyed and a new one with significant upgrades is close to completion. I'll try to get better piccies when it's done. As for the working fella so far it's just my index finger scale - full size, do you know of any 7mm high humans I could co-opt?
Version 5 of the S1 hopper is complete, so a single photo, if the light gets better I will try again. Next the R3 Coke Hopper.
Perhaps it's just a the colour at the moment, but that looks quite tiny in relation to the wheel size
Rob, They are tiny, I tried to take a photo along side the K1 cattle earlier which was poor, I will try again later, and yes the 3' wheels look huge in comparison to the size of the body.
Here you go Rob, a better photo of the dinky toy S1 and a comparison to the K1. Relative dimensions: K1 S1 Length over Buffers 19' 10" 16" Height 11' 3" 7" 7' Wheel Base 9' 6" 6' 3" Forgot to say S1 isn't finished I still have the end beam supports to fit, why, cos I forgot to print them!
Printing isn't allowed until she gets up at about 9am, so I need something to fill in the time between 6:00 and 9:00. A few weeks ago for my birthday I received the three wagon diagram books published by the NER (1891, 1904 and 1907) and looking through them I found a fascinating little project the K2 special cattle wagon. All the books contain is a basic dimension diagram with a little infill of details i.e. the absolute minimal info needed for a station master to order one up. I'm not adding the diagram to here because that breaks NERA copyright rules, but a basic description would be 21' 9" over the head stock, 11' 6" wheel base, 18' cattle compartment with a drovers compartment at one end, outside framing (which I like) a clerestory over the cattle comp't and 17 louvered sections of 4 different sizes per side. Absolutely no brake or running gear shown so all that will be half and half imagination half what came before. There's only a very brief 2 paragraph mention of it in the 260+ editions of the NER Express so a journey into the dark. All I have gleaned is only 10 were built in 1890 and it's very much designed for main line running so Westie brakes and possibly vacuum as well also more that likely clasp brakes. I planed to start it tomorrow morning but somehow started fiddling, and so far it looks like this: Obviously the door locking mechanism, hinges etc and drovers door handle etc still to model but an enjoyable day. The biggest challenge with the known, is how to draw and then print the louvers, Rob made a suggestion how to draw then which was in line with my thinking, but has anyone got any ideas on shape?
I would say trapezoidal but at what angle is the question. I would start at 30 degrees and see how that looks.
Hi Rob, Is that 30 degrees in the closed position or the open position? I presume when in the closed position each overlaps the one below it and is overlapped by the one above. Mossy
As I understand it they were always in the open position and didn't actually move but were fixed in the frame. Like this - these are at 30 degrees from horizontal.
That makes a whole lot of sense I have been playimg and scrambling my brain trying to get open and closed louvres. Thanks
Looking at it I think that the gaps between the louvres would have been bigger. Possibly a similar thickness to the slats themselves.
Great minds, fools seldom, I have been playing and guess what slats and gaps same thickness. I really must stop fiddling this is supposed to be an early morning play time project !