Mossys 3D Models

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by Mossy, May 19, 2022.

  1. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Ahh, so presumably the chassis is the resin bit?
    I was curious as to how much Furness were asking for it as I have always (perhaps unjustly) considered them expensive but I couldn't find an NER gunpowder van, although I could find GER, GWR and another which looked to be the GER version sold as one from another company.
     
  2. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Rob

    I think Marc's policy is when the mould is &^%$£ he removes the kit from his listings, so it may be on his dead list. The chassis is very basic and relies on an etch overlay with more rivets etc being punched our for all the chassis detail. When I bought my kit (roughly 5 years ago) they were about £50, that included couplings and fixed buffers, but I can't remember if wheels were included.
     
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  3. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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  4. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Perhaps it's down to whoever finished the model but it's doesn't look inspiring for an advert.

    If I had been photographing a model to advertise my wares, I would have at the very least made sure that the roof was properly fitted...
     
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  5. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Ohhhh Rob, I didn't know such a gently spoken man came armed with such talons :avatar:

    So now let me add my tuppence worth. It was the first time I have been on the revamped pre-grouping railways website. Frankly if any of my programmers brought that to me saying it's finished I would have died laughing and told them to go away and think again. It's not very good, so minor photographic blips are nothing really :facepalm:
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2024
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  6. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    First problem in building a new S1 Hopper. The new two longitudinal members conflict slightly with the wheels. Last time it wasn't a problem but what options are available. The cross member is 1.5mm wide and 6.5mm deep i.e. same depth as the solebar and headstock. It can't be moved towards the hopper - there's only 1/2mm of space, away from the hopper it would need a 1.5 - 2 mm move and would look plain daft. For the first build I simply chopped out the offending section of the member, crude but proved the problem, for future builds the members will be reduced in depth to 5mm which will give ample clearance for the wheels.

    The crude fix:

    First Problem.jpg

    Next job to do is to set to and build the end brake assemblies.
     
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  7. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Odd, as when I've followed drawings to the T I've found issues like that. Sometimes you just have to fudge it a tad. What looks right may not be right (as we are also making strength compromises in thickness at the same time)
     
  8. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Reminds me of another 3D modeller who no longer is a P1 member, how used to use his failed models as his display models.... never worked out why ? Surely if your putting something on the front of a display on your sales stand you want it to be made of the best parts to advertise it ? Not one with a twisted chassis etc.
     
  9. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Having worked in retail until my mid 20's. First, a Saturday job in a newsagents then as a butcher, the display is everything. If you don't have a good display then customers don't even come through the door.
     
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  10. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Same here! 6 years in a model shop! (Before moving to my current job of radio and communications!)
    Did 2 NVQ’s in the shop. Yes, we weren't perfect, I couldn’t get my boss to keep straight paperwork :headbanger: even when we had a filing cabinet. (I digress)
    Saturday mornings were all about dressing the windows in readiness..

    I can only put it down to it was spotted after.. (maybe it was a third party photographer who knows nowt about railways and thought the roof was supposed to come off? :facepalm:)
     
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  11. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    ehh int life grate, one little posting of a photo link and hey ho a thread take over. Carry on gents it makes a good read.
     
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  12. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Started in 2022, paused, forgotten about, resurrected, stalled, restarted and final the body, chassis and axle boxes ready for a test build - an S4 Ironstone hopper.

    aaaaa.jpg bbbb.jpg

    Some of the delicate parts of the body are poor so it needs the supports modifying before reprinting, but good enough for a first build. All the complex end brake gear components are sat a box waiting to tease and frustrate me. S1 first then S4
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2024
  13. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Last time I built an S1 hopper I had the chassis, running gear and hopper as a single unit, so this time I thought lets try to do some thing different - do the below chassis bits, then add the hopper and do the above chassis bits, So I am taking the opportunity to document the new process cos my memory is like a sieve.

    Below chassis.

    Very few parts: Left Brake, Short link, Cranked Link, Right Brake. I cut c length of .7mm cut to 36mm and a length of .9mm to 46mm.

    Step One - thread all 4 components onto the .7mm, position and glue the 2 brakes. Viewed from below the cranked link needs to be next to the righthand brake with the cranked V pointing logically downwards, don't glue it or the short link.

    step a.jpg

    Next thread the .9mm wire through the short link and cranked link (don't glue) Nothing clever just prepare yourself for the mother of all fights, it would still be a fight with 4 pairs of hands,

    step b.jpg

    Step 3

    The .9mm need to fit into the 2 down point brackets and the brake shoes arranged so an up pull on the cranked link pushed the shoes into the wheels. Easy to say, have fun!
    Which gets you to this point:

    step c.jpg

    Other bits to take note of, the cranked link needs to positioned outboard from the righthand end support the short link close up to the opposite wheel. Last time I tried to leave the rotation of the links running free but gave up as I couldn't get the short link and cracked link to mirror each other so at this point superglue is needed. Having spent roughly 2 hours feeling like I was in a looney tunes cartoon, rest time and thats all for now folks!

    Oops in the first two photos the cranked link is on the wrong side.:hammer::hammer::hammer:
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2024
  14. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    The S1 hopper chassis and running gear is finally complete so I have switched over to the S4. Body, Chassis and W Irons all dry fitted so they can be stripped down and the mental origami with end brake gear can begin. This brake is very different to all the previous one I have built as the majority of the linkage is above the chassis rather than below it. Easier or harder - I will find out soon!

    three.jpg four.jpg
     
  15. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    The S4 Hopper was originally drawn in June 2022 and has been another in/put of favour so now is the first time much of it has actually been printed.
    I have built all the running /brake gear for one axle (chassis and below) and the are a number of very obvious problem so this is now relegated to a test build and a number of corrections are necessary but over all it's pretty close and the problems re simple tweaks.

    Problems:
    Axle box
    There's a problem between the position of the spring assembly and sole bar (one of which can be seen in the photo above) the second being the lateral position of the
    spring assembly relative to the width of the solebar.
    I created the righthand axlebox assembly by mirroring the left one, guess what happens to NER Type 2A when you look at it in a mirror!

    Brake Yoke
    It's too wide by about 1-2mm so needs revamping.
    five.jpg six.jpg
     
  16. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    S4 Progress

    Tweaks mentioned above done and new bits printed ready for a second build. The only thing that previously I had difficulty with was linking between the brake yoke and the long vertical link, so as a preventive measure I threaded a bit of .5mm through the link before starting. So as a start:

    severn.jpg eight.jpg

    Insert brass rod into brake yoke (its just easier done up front). Insert the spindle and long vertical and then the W Irons/Wheel sets and just for fun the horse loops producing a basic chassis.

    More Brass rod around which the brake gear rotates, and fit the brake yoke into the brake shoes and finally link the brake yoke to the vertical link. Much easier than all the previous end brake rigs I have done (partially because of the separate chassis partially just easier), but also with the fact the rest fits under the hopper and is yet to be done.

    So it all looks like this now:
    nine.jpg eleven.jpg

    Before anyone asks, no it doesn't have clasp brakes, as brake on the inside of the wheels would complicate the hoppering and bottom discharge. Quietly smug with myself but only half way there!
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2024
  17. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    S4 Progress part 2.

    Frankly little to report but with a sting in the tail. The upper part of the end brake mechanism went together reasonably easily and even easier the second time around. Hopper doors and latches again just steady eddy, couldn't make up the monkey tails as I had no handrail knobs despite being sure I had some. They are now on order.

    All that was left was some clean up of excess brass wire and marry the body top the chassis and join up the two sections of brake, but, guess who cut away an unrecoverable section of the brake gear. :hammer::hammer::hammer::hammer::hammer::hammer::hammer::hammer:. So an overnight print of the body and hopper and a new set of brake gear a new build will appear from the ashes hopefully some time tomorrow!
     
  18. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I didn't get a chance to comment yesterday as things were a bit hectic here.

    I am most impressed with the quality of prints on these latest hopper wagons. Design aspects aside, all your efforts and frustrations along the print journey have certainly been rewarded.
     
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  19. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Thanks Rob.

    You wouldn't believe it but they are being printed on the cheapest printer Anycubic do, a Mono 2 roughly £90. Mine seems ultra reliable and rarely do I get print failures,
    having said that, I set a reprint of the S4 body running last evening and it failed! You know my fascination with Cleveland Ironstone Mining, and that my Mothers family were all miners around Guisborough so I have decided to finish off the 4 primary wagons used around the ore field, I might even get tempted in to a layout. So I am concentrating on the S1 and S4 hopper which were built to primarily transport calcined ore, I am then going to update my P5 Coal Hopper by retro fitting it back to it's S&D precursor used to transport raw ore. Then rework the V1/2 brakes (so many things wrong with the originals) which is effectively an S&D version of the V1/1. Without stupid mistakes like yesterday a basic set of 4 shouldn't take long, then I need to think about the black sheep of my plans, a Bouch long boilered 0-6-0 which was the primary mover of ore pre 1900.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2024
  20. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Because of yesterdays print failure, this morning was spent warming up resin and setting a reprint going (the body takes about 3 - 3/4 hours). Curiously when I check on progress two hours later it had finished!! Answer if you reprint something you didn't mean to it may well be quicker or slower than that planned. Anyway a new print triggered which finished about 4:00 this afternoon, perfect! As to the rogue print it was the S4 chassis and components and since I have loads of spare brake gear bits, I now have 2 S4 chassis, one body and another printing. Rebuilding of the brakes will start tomorrow morning and this time assembled without a catastrophic builder failure.

    I should have posted this yesterday afternoon, not sure why I didn't
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2024

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