O gauge loco build.

All this talk of people going over to O Gauge, and myself already building Mallard and the Scotsman (when I get round to it), I have decided that as I already have a small rake of O Gauge wagons and a plank doing nothing at the moment that I will also go for a small loco and see what transpires so as of ten minutes ago I ordered the starter loco from Connoisseur Models. When the kit arrives and I have studied the destructions carefully I will do a blow by blow account of the build. Should be fun and hopefully I can get it right so watch this space.

 

You're welcome Toto.
Another thing to add to the tips. Build the chassis first and let the body fit the chassis and not the other way round.

 

Wheels ordered from Slaters today so all being well should be able to get started on it soon.

 

Wheels arrived today. That is what I call service. Ordered mid afternoon yesterday, received this afternoon. Well done Slaters and Royal Mail.

 

Loco kit arrived today whilst I was at the South Devon Railway. At the shop there I went in to see what O Gauge wagon kits they had and took a fancy to a PD GWR Tevan and a PD LMS 12T Van. I ended up with both at 30% off in their sale, so two kits for £46 quid. Not bad me thinks. Might go again tomorrow and pick up some more, the Ale Van looked tempting. Whilst there I took a lot of pics of the locos and some models that were on display. Will put them up later when I have checked them up.

 

Made a start on the chassis today. First pics are the shinies added yesterday and the kit itself as unpacked.







Now to the job in hand.

The parts needed for this session. All the brass parts have been sanded to remove any lacquer or etching residue.



The etched parts folded as required



Soldered up and wheels attached



This session went well with no problems. Carefully remove the parts from the main fret and trim off any nibbles. There are some small parts etched inside the hole on the chassis fret. Put these in a safe place for later in the build. Using a rivit machine or centre punch form the rivits on the guard irons then sand all the brass parts for cleaning. Following the instructions fold up the main chassis frame (fold lines to the inside of the bend) and once all is square solder up. Do a basic clean up of excess solder and then solder in the right angle spacer. This fits over the front axle and should be fitted flush with the top of the frames. Once happy with positon solder in, but not until you have soldered in the front axle bushes. It's easier to do them before the angled spacer is fitted. Slot in but do not solder the rear axle bushes (you solder them later once the motor mount is made up) then fit the wheels. You will probably need to open out the holes on the frames a little to take the bushes and also open out the bushes a little to take the axles. Test run on a piece of track to see that the wheels are free runinng. If all is well remove the wheels again and put in a safe place till latter then give the chassis a good scrub to remove any flux residue then put to one side.
That completes session 1. Do not worry too much about the sideplay as this can be sorted when the motor bracket is fitted by using spacing washers. These may have to be sourced from elsewhere.

Session 2 will be the footplate and basic body shell. This is so that the position of the motor can be determined.

Till later

 

Herewith session 2. I have decided to break it down into three sections.

Section 2A. Fitting the motor mounting plate and motor.

Take the motor mounting plate from the packaging and open up the large holes to take the axle bushes then fold up with the fold lines to the inside and solder the seams. After cleaning up excess solder fit the motor (Mashima 1833). Slot the motor/gearbox assembly into the chassis and push the axle bearings in to to hold it all in place. Do not solder the axle bearings yet, this will come later. Put the complete unit to one side for now.



Section 2B. Fixing securing nuts to footplate.

Parts needed are the footplate etch from the main sheet and 2 nuts and bolts from the packet of small items. Clean up any nibbles and sand the footplate on both sides to clear any lacquer etc. Solder the two nuts over the holes on the footplate (the footplate needs to be letterside up). Once done clean up excess solder and place the assembly to one side.



Temporarily unite the chassis and footplate to check clearances. The motor will rest against the front frame spacer.



Section 2C.

Parts needed. From the main fret sheet remove 2 x cabside etches, 2 x inner tank etches, 1 cab front etch, 1 cab rear etch and the bunker back. Clean up any nibbles and sand as before. There will be several small parts that will come loose when cutting out the etches. Place in a safe place till later in the build. Fold the parts where necessary with the fold lines inside the bend and solder the seams. Clean up. On the cab front and rear there are some rivits to be formed where marked. Push these out with a punch or rivet machine. The half etch part of the cab lookouts are to the outside when fitting. The inner tank etches fit with the filler cap hole to the front of the loco. I found that out after I soldered them in the wrong way round so a slight rebuild must go ahead the next time I do anything on it. I know, I should have checked first. Getting everything square is tricky but not impossible.





That completes this section. More again soon when I fit the valances and buffer beams and the bunker back, which needs shaping.

 

Emery cloth in this instance as there isn't much detail on the etchings. Having looked at them carefully I don't think there is any lacquer on them anyway, but a quick rub over with the emery does also clean it up for soldering.

 

Don't forget to use a 70 degree solder for the white metal, saves the heartbreak of melted castings. I once built an old CCW M7 white metal kit and used what was then the new superglue. As far as I know it's still running somewhere.