O gauge loco build.

Back to my own build. I have had other things on today, like shopping for food, new stamps etc. but did manage to correct the tank inners so that the feed holes are at the right end. I also encountered the first snag. Shaping the bunker back is a pig. It would be easier to reduce the thickness in the area the bend has to go by running a file across the whole width to make it more flexible. Remember that the piece is handed. On the bottom of one side are three very small etched in t-shapes. These must be on the outside as they are the marking position for the lamp brackets. I eventually managed it with the piece full thickness and any slight imperfections were smoothed out with some solder. I also fitted the valances on the footplate. These also are tricky to get them in the right place and to hold them vertically while they are soldered on. (This is where the second set of hands would be useful). The valances line up against the pips from the tank sides that poke through the tab holes in the footplate and you more or less need to centre them along the length of the loco by eye. I think I got it right. Tomorrow I will find out when I add the buffer beams.

Bunker back in position



The body so far, resting on the basic chassis



More tomorrow.

 

Thanks Pete. Will give it a try next time when I have to shape the smokebox wrap round.

 

Burnt my fingers already Chris. Don't know about running a train by the weekend though. Depends on the weather. If it's nice I'll be off bug hunting again and there is the small matter of a visit to the Bodmin & Wenford.

 

We've got a few that bite too Chris, but not as fatal as some of your beasts.
Had an interrupted day today so only managed to fit on the buffer beams and solder up and fit the boiler. The buffer beams was the easy part, although it is relatively straight forward you still have to make sure that they are square and central to the loco width. The soldering up of the boiler is a bit trickier. The boiler comes ready rolled which is a blessing but the joint at the bottom is tricky. Ok, it is half etched and you need to make it an overlapping joint. (Burnt fingers No. 1). Once that has cooled you have to solder in a half round strengthener or former for the top part. This is also tricky and you have to work fairly quick otherwise the bottom joint will spring open again. Ok, mine didn't go in too square but it shouldn't hinder the next stage later on. The rear former is fairly straight forward but again you have to press down on the boiler wrap to make everything fit. (Burnt fingers No. 2). Once that was done you then have to fit the boiler into the loco body. It is a tight fit but reasonably straight forward. You only need to tack solder in a few places along the length to keep it in place and again when you solder the rear former to the cab front. Joints are internal and out of sight so as long as it is a good joint the cosmetics are not too important. I hope everything is square, it looks it. By the way the castings are only resting in position. I want to paint them first before fitting after the main loco body is painted.











Thats it for now folks

 

Had a break today, went out filming as the weather was fine. Managed a bad shot of an HST power car running on the Paddington/Penzance duty. It was in 1970's Intercity 125 livery.

 

Have only managed to fit the rear steps today as have been busy running around trying to find a replacement lens for one I managed to drop and murder yesterday. It was a Nikon 70/300 and didn't bounce very well when it landed on a concrete pavement. Managed eventually to get hold of a new Tamron 70/300 for £250. Ouch!
Toto, when you get down to starting a couple more tips to make life easier for you.
On the footplate fit the valances and buffer beams whilst it is in the flat but make sure the tab holes remain clear of solder. Also mark of the position of the front and rear steps and fit those too.
On the cab sides fit the beading around the top of the cab cut out whilst it is flat as well. It can be done after fitting etc. but it makes it easier to get the iron in. On the beading strips the raised section fits inside the cab.
Will do some more sometime over the weekend and put up some pics.