Scalescenes Kit Bash Competition Entry - Paul_L

It's been a while since I've had a go at a Scalescene build, so this will be fun - I hope.

On the lucky side for me I already have the kit with the Ashlar & Brown Brick textures, the hard part will be selecting only 5 additional items from the scratch builders yard, as in previous builds I've kit bashed several kits into 1.



For example the building on the Left - Goods shed was made from the Low relief Warehouse kit, Original Factory warehouse kit (now updated), and the Goods shed kit.
The building on the right used parts from the Low relief High street kit, Large Corner shop kit, and the rear of the building several of the Low relief high street backs.

This will be an interesting challenge.


I will post up sketches soon of the proposed build, just need to print out some templates to get an idea of the basic structure to be formed.

Paul

 

Still visiting - tis the only way I can get out of doing jobs for SWMBO or Toto

The factory closed on June 30th, and I haven't done any modelling since, been too busy dismantling the place.

Back to the tread



My first rough (very rough) sketch.

I'm not too sure of the toal space available for the model, however I think I will double the length - may be more, and will have windows replacing the sliding doors for the additional length (Random Ashlar to match wall - TX45)
The End Sliding door entrance will be replaced with a two storey office block, finished in dressed stone TX49.
The rear will be a suck it see affair as it is tapered so the width and shape will be adjusted to suit the total length as the building may look too narrow we'' see.



Also if I need to add a foundation then that will be in Coursed rubble TX47

That only leaves me two sheets left .

Oh well time to get some paper as I only appear to have photo copier paper. I'll treat the boss to a box of cream cakes - that's the glazing sorted, who said romance is dead.

Paul

 

Couple of changes

Now triple length, and need to decide the final finish - more later.

Glued the first side piece to the 2mm Grey board, and started to layout the extensions

To maintain some form of consistancy, the distance between doors / windows was to be maintained, this is a gap of 39mm.

Also marked out the doors to cut to the floor as I won't be using the platform.

Also for ease, the eagled eyed may have noticed the right panel is a mirrored print, the distance from the last window to the edge is 26 mm, so the center panel was trimmed 13 mm from the cut out. and glued in place.

The same was repeated for the inner wall, again to make it easier for me this was stuck down above the outer wall and upside down to allow me to validate the cut out alignment.

There is 5 mm extra on the base this will accommodate a 5mm foam board base / floor.

Paul

 

Cheers Kim

Slight technical issue today - not to do with the build but did cause a few issues.

We have had a lodger for a few years now - my daughters cat.

Now Baggy (the cat) has a thing for chewing low voltage cables, usb, ethernet, hdmi, soldering irons you know the essential ones - doesn't chew mains ones when they are live. But now after killing Alexa he now uses the dead for a pillow

Back to the build

Cutting out the windows

12 down 12 to go

I've ordered up some Swan Morton plastic handles, as the metal handles play havoc with my poor delicate fingers when cutting 2mm grey board, I know I'm a wimp.

Next stage is to cover the outer wall, but that will be tomorrow

Paul

 

Small progress today

I printed off the out wall wraps 2 x frontwall standard and 1 x frontwall mirrored

I standard print glued in place on the left hand side

Next up the ends were glued on to grey board, and the inner wall glued to medium card,

the recycling head is firmly inplace, guess the supplier of this card stock

The two layers of the end wall were glued together with PVA and left to dry under weights (actually two old hard drives).

the outer wall wrap was cut out to the blue fold indicators, the long wall folded using a rule, then placed over the outer wall to fold the other side.

Then trimmed and glued in place

a good part of this wall will get covered with white painted brick Probably a mirrored print of the inner wall so I don't use 1 of my allowed sheets, this will be for the inner wall of the office building extension.

Paul

 

I must admit sticking to the 5 additional build sheets is causing me great restrictions, as I would normally be pinching bits from all sorts of kits. And as I bought my brick papers some years ago when they were sold seperately as window arches, brick paper and windows and templates whereas now you get the whole lot for each type of brick paper. Far better value, but causes me issues as that makes 3 seperate sheet numbers .

I just have to pick the correct paper compromise for the job , or in this case keep mirroring the prints where I can to be able to cover the whole wall from sheets within the kit.

Paul

 

Just adds to the challenge, lookig forward to seeing your entry

 

Time for a small update

Glued the right hand outer layer on and left to dry - this is the mirrored print side.

The centre panel was cut out and aglined with the window apertures and wrapped over the cut outs to help with alignment when glued down.

The panel was then glued in place - glue was applied to the card backing and not the brick paper layer. The excess over hanging the two layers already stuck down.

Once dry the center panel was trimmed to size

The down pipe bracket lines were extended to the center panel - need to get a finer black marker pen.

Next ran a Spectrum Noir Warm Grey pen down the join, holding the pen in place will cause the ink to leech into the paper giving a staining effect.

Almost came to a grinding halt - nae spaggetti - found some, quick coat of permanent black marker

Think I may need to use acrylic or enamel paint as the colour doesn't quite look right.

I've not glued them in place as they tend to be easily damaged when been handled.

Paul

 

Now the sides are dry, its time to wrap the flaps round the apertures

So far I've been using glue sticks, now its time for PVA, 1 lite Evo-Stick bottles don't lend themselves to fine application, so out comes the fine tip applicator.

I've had this for some years and unfortunately the company is no longer trading, however Metcalf Models do sell them, and cheaper for three than I paid for one.

Also the trick is to keep them standing upside down all the time - it keeps the skin on the top of the glue, then before you run the bottle empty, wash it out.

A fine bead along the vertical face and a bit more on the back then fold around.

Summary of bits used so far - no additional texture sheets (so far) just reprints and mirrored prints from the kit, some 2mm Grey board, an Amazon card board package and a piece of Spagghetti - I'm still within the rules

Paul

 

Most of today spent waiting for glue to dry

The left hand outer wall had its flaps wrapped round, and the inner wall cut out, also the drain pipe wraps were cut out.

The drain pipe wrap was glued in place on the inner wall - only the left hand wall, the right will need modifying to suit the new shape.

Once dry the drain wrap was wrapped around the end of the wall. Both parts now ready to be glued together

PVA plus weights.

Next up the main wall, I used some of the window aperture off cuts to help align the walls during the clamping process, again pva, but this time I used a flat ceramic floor tile as a surface to clamp the walls too. The walls being help inplace with Binder clamps and a 3ft profiled rule to hold them in place. A bit more glue was needed to stick the walls above the top windows, again the Binder clamps were used to clamp the sides together.

I've also made up a floor from 2 layers of 3mm foam board (both of these pieces were over 3.7 thick).
The floor is oversize to allow me to position the other walls and trim to suit.
Floor texture - mmmmm ...... the texture papers I have that I would use is from Model Railway Scenery, so not really part of the ethics of the competition. And I want to save my additional sheet allowance for the finishing touches. So I think i'm going to try and airbrush a concrete floor - if I make a mess I can cover it with a brick paper.

The two walls leaned together

In front of the building will be two layers of floor foam insulation, jst as a guide to height

Paul

 

Now there are some gaping holes in the walls, in the kit these would be doors for the platform access, so there is nothing in the kit that I could use.

So time to create my own

Open up 123D and away we go



This was made slightly oversize the aperture is is approx 37.7 to 38.4 square (ish) so I made them 38.5 x 38.5, and will file them down to size

2 can be printed on the Anycubic Photon build plate at a time



approx 35 min later

and just placed on the wall

Some cleanup is required, but look good enough to do a second print - I need four.

To keep some consistancy, I'll need to do the same for the smaller upper windows.

Paul