Class 24 build... oh no not another Stoke engine.

Thanks Toto however there is still quite a bit more fiddly stuff yet... remember the brake piston frames I started this thread with? Then there are also the assemblies for under the axleboxes which support those equalizing beams and the cab and water filler steps still to be made. But yes we are getting there and once we have bogies then the sub frame chassis can be assembled... I'm holding back on that yet because it is useless changing tack now since without bogies we have no locomotive. I'm thinking of a way to make the outer bogie frame removable so as to get to the wheels and gearing if needed, I think this is quite possible but as I get to completing the inner bogies I shall then start the sub chassis frame build and fix the bolster carriers to hold the bogies.

 

Funny you say that Steve that very idea was going through my mind earlier, also I'm going to make the outer frame removable by soldering a 12BA nut inside and underneath the bolster beam and drilling a hole through the outer frame top section where it meets then a short 12BA screw to tighten the assembly. Everything is hidden and out of sight. .. well that's the plan anyway. But thanks for the heads up anyway.

 

Thanks it is Paul but worth it and also for me very satisfying. I understand it's not everyone's cup of tea but hey I'll bring it with me in October ... should be somewhere near by then.

 

Well on to Part 3 of the Steve Beattie bogie build instructions now, this section deals mainly with the inner bogie frame the build of which consists the two inner sides that slip into slots on the bolster saddle, all very simple stuff and care taken with an engineers square will set the right angles correctly. Next was soldering in the brass axle bushes, I get mine in packs from Nairn Models who send out promptly, these bushes have a slightly thicker flange which means less "slap" with lateral movement of the wheelset and less shimming needs doing. Finally the motor plate is fitted, at this point care must be taken to align it correctly so the gear and worm mesh properly. I did a dry run with the motor fitted to the carrier plate and scribed the sides top and edge on the frames marking as the datum point for soldering, obviously the axles have to be fitted too and my new .190" hand reamer did the job perfectly ensuring a lovely fit between bush and axle. So then it was a case of strip it all down and solder up... here are the pictures.

 

Once satisfied the inner frame is nice and level and there is no frame rocking when tested on my flat stone workplate I dressed the frame again with motor and wheels, the motor is from Taff Vale and is an 1833 type five pole skew wound armature, the gear is 26:1 ratio and the worm and gear is from Roxey Moldings. Now my original concern about the size of the worm immediately dissipated at this point because Steve had designed the motor carrier etch to take this smaller size, so in the end it seems this model is intended to be fitted with the Roxey worm and gears. Now because I didn't use a Mashima motor the motor fixing points had to be opened out by a couple of mill because the Taff Vale motor has the fixing points further apart.

Now I just had to add a couple of wires and put some power to it... and yes all works very smoothly and quiet too.

So now its back to strip it all down again and prime the frames, when it comes to the final rebuilding I have to add in the wiper pick ups, shim the wheelsets and solder in fixing nuts as described earlier. Now I've got the other one to do. Later on I will drill out the wheels as per the real thing but I've got to buy in some serious kit beforehand

 

And now we have the two inner bogie frames completed so far, both bed tested ok, these will be put to one side as I finish the outer assemblies and then put in a fastening system so I can release parts of maintenance.

I think two 12BA nuts soldered into the underside of the bolster channels and a threaded hole aligned on the bogie top plate where the bolster beam rests on is the best place, also adding an extra cross brace in the region of the non geared wheelset will help. The green line indicated where the delrin chain will be routed through the central bulkheads. The next stage of this build once all the sub assembly stuff is fitted will be the construction of the mainframe chassis, then I can see how the bogies will mount and then the bogies can be stripped down again and painted before their final reassembly.

Anyway that's it for now

 

No Toto, I though hard about this and concluded all the Sulzer kits I'm planning will have the Delrins fitted on both bogies... I've purchased from that place you pointed me in the direction of. Also I've just bought another six Cannon 1833 motors off that bloke selling on fleabag. They are three pole but we will see how they perform. Now stand by your beds cos only yesterday did I invest in the Proxxon TBM220 Micromot pillar drill, the KT 70 combination table, chuck and the dividing head... so 96 bogie wheel holes here we come.

 

Firstly sorry I didn't get back to you chatting about stuff the other evening... things have been a bit hectic this week and I found myself putting in a lot of hours of the 24 bogies. Basically there is no sync between both motors, each motor drives its respective delrin chain, now the Cannon is a make of 12dc motor the size is coded 1833, so that equates at 18mm x 33mm size wise. Now the Knotty was the nickname for the North Staffordshire Railway because they made constant use of the Staffordshire Know motif as their trademark.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=s...BAgGEAE&biw=1242&bih=574#imgrc=2BhiaVmTYKKCQM:

 

I was led to understand the lower the ratio the faster the loco or have I got that wrong, the 26;1 seemed correct ... Roxey sell combo gear sets particularly for diesels at 13:1 ratio
so they must shift faster than the speed of light . Now then I'm in East Yorkshire so that's a bit of a way off up in the Wolds but for me living here the countryside is lovely and so are the workshop hire prices too. The great thing about using Delrin chain is links are removable and if you have spare left over (providing the link size is the same) you can make a new chain up from all the left overs and that represents a nice cost saving.

 

Thanks Timbersurf for that, yes the Sulzer Type 2 locomotives had two wheel sizes the 1160 bhp Class 24 and later 1250 turbo variant Class 25 had 3' 9" wheels, the MacRats Class 26 and 27 had 3'7" wheels. Yup I did answer you on the cannon ... it is the make of motor which I have just bought six units, the Cannon 1833 12 volt unit in this instance is the earlier three pole skew wound type and the bulk buy price was attractive. In the Steve beattie Class 24 kit I'm on with at the moment I'm using Taff Vale 1833 type five pole motors because the Mashima ones are getting hard to buy at the right price nowadays, the main difference with the Taff Vale ones is that the contacts are very much smaller than Mr Mashima's own.