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Discussion in 'Members Personal Layouts' started by Reidy, Oct 4, 2016.

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  1. Jan 23, 2017 #101
    SMR CHRIS

    SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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    Moving along at pace with the build now Reidy nothing wrong with the light foam just remember not to lean on it where the track goes or it may get a hollow

    The corner a small L bracket will fix that tight but will all be hidden any way if you put a curve section in

    Re the frogs and point blades etc the points will work OK as long as you don't have any wheel sets that will touch the back of the open blade and the frog will be powered and as long as you have insulated joiners on both the rails behind the frog it will work ok
    However reliability separating the frog from the blades and linking each blade to the Rail it contacts then powering the frog from a switch on the point motor, the manual point switch or a electronic switch like the Tam Valley frog juicer is the way to go.

    I'll dig out a Peco point and take some photos in the next day or so to show you the how and where the links go etc
    http://www.click
     
  2. Jan 23, 2017 #102
    Sol

    Sol Full Member

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    Here is one way of converting Peco turnouts as described by Chris
    http://www.mrol.com.au/Articles/Electrical/LiveFrogWiring.aspx
     
  3. Jan 24, 2017 #103
    SMR CHRIS

    SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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    Sol wrote:
    That's the way thanks Sol saved me having to find the points:thumbs:
     
  4. Jan 24, 2017 #104
    ianvolvo46

    ianvolvo46 Staff Member Moderator

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    Don't say you were'nt warned Reidy ... insulting frogs .. live frogs ... dead frogs ... wait till the point motors kick in ... seep .. creep .. snail .. cobalt .. this witchcraft brings a whole new meaning to 'man cave' .. just remember its never too late to turn to tinto.

    Ian vt :facepalm:
     
  5. Jan 24, 2017 #105
    Reidy

    Reidy Full Member

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    Haha Ian sometimes I wonder what I've got my self in to. I'm a big fan of the KISS principle. DCC is about as complicated as it's going to get. Wire/Rod and tube with DPDT switches will do it nicely. I put my thinking cap on after getting a bit worried about designing a rod and bellcrank arrangement. I'll just keep the switches surface mounted or hidden in little finger holes sub surface on the front fascia.

    Reidy
     
  6. Jan 24, 2017 #106
    Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    You will find that the KISS principle will apply to dcc. I have converted Jack's plank to dcc and in doing so, I remove about 40 wires which controlled the individual sections, isolation areas and point motors. When I removed the SEEP point motors I replaced them with wire in tube. No switches for frogs as I'm using Insulfrog points. It's a lot neater under the baseboard now.

    What I eliminated : http://www.platform1mrc.com/view_post.php?post_id=22450

    How it looks now (underneath) : http://www.platform1mrc.com/view_post.php?post_id=22448

    Wire in tube : http://www.platform1mrc.com/view_post.php?post_id=22505

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  7. Jan 24, 2017 #107
    Reidy

    Reidy Full Member

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    I saw what you and Jack had done there Gary. I was wondering about the frog polarity-insulfrog explains that. Did you use RC aerial again? Trying to find something cheap, looking at drinking straws atm

    Reidy
     
  8. Jan 24, 2017 #108
    gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    I`m proud of you Reidy...:worship:

    You`re a re-cycling legend...:thumbs:

    Don`t know if it`s of any use to you, but tile spacers make good bell cranks as long as they are out of site.??.....Don`t know if you`ve seen this vid, but it explains how it works.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hqarxyy2Vn0

    http://www.click:tophat:Gormo
     
  9. Jan 24, 2017 #109
    Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    No, I couldn't find my spare RC aerials. I used 2 1/2 lengths of Evergreen styrene tube. If I remember correctly, it was the 2.4mm outside diameter tube, approx. $6.00 for a pack of 6 or 8 - 340mm long lengths. These were glued into place with Tarzan's Grip. If you like the odd Choppa Chop, the handles are hollow and they can be cut up into smaller sections and used as wire guides... ;);)

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  10. Jan 24, 2017 #110
    Reidy

    Reidy Full Member

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    gormo wrote:
    I've watched all of your videos Gormo! Looking at my plan the only points that could require a bellcrank set up would be assymetric 3 way into the loco yard. Even then I reckon a long rod in tube to near the mill would work ok.
     
  11. Jan 24, 2017 #111
    Reidy

    Reidy Full Member

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    Gary wrote:
    Might have a few hidden here somewhere. I declared the house a sugar free zone (most of the time) after Christmas. Pretty sure SWMBO has a stash here somewhere...

    I think I'm going to cut small pieces of 3mm MDF to use as back plates for the switch and recess these in to the foam base at the front edge with glue. Not confident the styrene would be resilient enough to handle repeated throws of the points.

    Another idea is to make little caves at the front edge of the foam to mount the switches in. A lot neater than mounting on the layout surface . :scratchchin:

    Reidy
     
  12. Jan 24, 2017 #112
    Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Should be resilient enough as the styrene tube is only a guide for the wire. Another alterantive is 3mm diameter brass tube soldered to a brass base plate that can then be screwed to the baseboard. Use three or four of these (they only have to be 10mm long) to guide the wire to the destination. These could be attached under the baseboard with your switches...

    [​IMG]

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  13. Jan 24, 2017 #113
    Reidy

    Reidy Full Member

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    Gary wrote:
    Another option, thanks Gary.

    My biggest issue is how to mount up the switches neatly. Happy to go under the base board, might have to add a small lip along the front edge of the fascia to put the switches on.

    Reidy
     
  14. Jan 25, 2017 #114
    Reidy

    Reidy Full Member

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    Hello again

    Some proof of concept and confidence building work tonight. I did a test run with the styrene, roadbed and switching mechanism sans DPDT switch. I used chuppa chup sticks for the wire in tube.

    [​IMG]

    Image showing the wiring tunnel. I have to angle it back towards the layout to avoid the bracing under the baseboard edge.

    [​IMG]

    Next, I'll develop this a little further to see if I can sink the switch into a cut out on the front edge of the foam so not to encroach on the scenery.

    Does anyone know of a suitable neutral cure caulk or sealant that I could fill the channel with?

    Reidy
     
  15. Jan 25, 2017 #115
    Reidy

    Reidy Full Member

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    Voila

    Well almost

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Will need someway of tunnel boring beyond the reach of my drill bit or I will be cutting some deep old trenches.

    Reidy
     
  16. Jan 25, 2017 #116
    Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    If you are anywhere near Bunnings, pick up a tube of Parfix Maxi Nails. It's the cheaper version of Liquid Nails and it doesn't eat into the polystyrene foam. I use this to glue down all of my polystyrene.

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/parfix-320g-maxi-nails-construction-adhesive_p1232577

    Once you have glued in the tubing, cover the trench with a piece of masking tape or heavy paper strips and PVA, then you can scenic over the top. :thumbs:

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  17. Jan 25, 2017 #117
    Reidy

    Reidy Full Member

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    Or option three

    [​IMG]

    Thoughts?

    Reidy
     
  18. Jan 25, 2017 #118
    Reidy

    Reidy Full Member

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    Gary wrote:
    Thanks Gary, I'll pick up a tube or two this weekend.

    Masking tape makes sense.

    Reidy
     
  19. Jan 25, 2017 #119
    Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Which ever way you decide to go, I do think having a supporting timber strip for the switch would be a good idea. :thumbs:

    [​IMG]

    Perhaps rather than making a 'cave', a small structure could be built over the switch or even some form of a bush/shrub can semi cover the switch. I used a Scalescenes kit to cover the old Hornby levers on my Linden Ford layout and they were accessed by not building a back on the building.

    See here : http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=12116&forum_id=21&page=4#p213744

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  20. Jan 25, 2017 #120
    Reidy

    Reidy Full Member

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    I think you're right Gary. Only way to really ensure that it's reliable in the long term. I thought your Linden Ford setup was very innovative.

    Reidy
     
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