I agree Reidy, Best not to handle locos if you can avoid it.......there must be an answer and you will find it in the end and if you don`t find it ........it`s not the end.!!!! There you are....I`m stealing quotes from The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel movie.....but it`s true.!!! http://www.clickGormo
I use these, you place them on the track and the loco drives in! See SL43 loco lift lower on this page.. https://www.modelrailwaysdirect.co.uk/track-and-track-accessories/peco-oo-track-accessories/ Cheers Ron
Ron wrote: Nice one Ron. I had considered these. I'm forever looking for an 'elegant' solution though. Something like this might be the compromise. Reidy
gormo wrote: Can't say I've seen it, Gormo! Grey matter currently chewing over having a turntable arrangement at the end of the sector plate or transverser. Train drives through, uncouples, runs on to the turntable, runs back to the front the right way round. Simples. But it takes up space 🤔 Reidy
Sector plate with a turntable - been there, I used 9mm mdf for the sector plate base, with a further layer of 9mm mdf as a track base / turntable, the pivot of the sector plate also being the pivot for the turntable. The total thickness of 18mm gave a nice solid feel to the sector plate, I used some strips of teflon between the sector plate base and the support beams to let the sector plate slide smoothly. Only down side was I had to move on to the entrance road to complete the run round, or use a dedicated spur at the end of the sector plate. Paul
I have been using the 25mm rigid foam board for several years ,I only put a 45x19 pine frame under and glue the foam to the timber,as for track underlay I also have been using a non slip mesh available from many sources,Woolworths,cheap shops etc,it is 3 mm thick comes in black or tan colours ,when you lay under track/ points etc you simply run a bead of white glue down the centre ,no pins necessary,glues the track & underlay,to the foam.i have tested this method for over 10 years in all temps. 2-42 deg with never a problem. Pete
Hi Pete. I've got a role of that stuff laying around somewhere. Never even considered it! It would be good to use as I wouldn't have to build up the surrounding area as much to get the branch line feel to it. I'm pretty sold on the foam board. I've got a supplier nearby that has turned out a bit cheaper than Bunnings. Thanks for tip! Reidy
Reidy wrote: Reidy for the additions to the plan makes the loop just that bit more usable esp for when you run a mixed goods with the passanger car at the rear with the Guards Van. The loco lifts are also avalable from DCC concepts in lots of different sizes the DCC concept lift is a storage unit as well, you get a cover and a velour lined box so you can store your models dust free when not in uses or for when your visiting friends and you decide to take a model along to run http://www.click
A photo of the underlay,by the way it is also quitter than cork,holds the ballast also,so I don't glue the ballast ,in case I want to change things which happens often ,i have made ply templates for points for both HO and O,the photo is of the old O scale set up which I am now going to use on the O plank layout.. Pete Attached files
Why not make your own loco lifts from some 6mm MDF and two lengths of aluminium angle ?? Cheers, Gary. ps. Have you seen this ? : http://armchairmodellerdownunder.blogspot.com.au/2010_11_01_archive.html Scroll down to the pics of Tumut.
I've been entertaining the thought of many different solutions, Gary. This is by far the simplest solution and would probably take up the least amount of room. I figure I want to hold a mixed goods, timber train, live stock and maybe a rail motor. The trains will be limited to about a metre long unless I can add a small extension to the base board. I have about 25cm to play with. The Tumut layout that the Tumut MRC built was amazing! They're blog is still online, although I believe the layout has been sold on to a lucky new owner. I fear I've gone so far from the prototype I may have to rename my little town - something like Weelabarrolong 😜 Also I've got 25 lengths of Code 75 flex in stock now. Just waiting for my points. I nearly bought the DCC system. Can anyone tell me if it's best to test the layout on DC first? Reidy
I tend to do my testing on DC first as a precaution. As you are aware, when we wire a DCC layout, the whole track plan is live. I would recommend testing each section of track that you connect to the main bus wire, as you connect them. If you connect all the dropper wires first go, it will make finding the fault harder. So, connect the first and second pair, then test, connect the third pair, test again and so on. This way you can't go wrong. Cheers, Gary.
Guys, Polystyrene foam has a bad habit of eating the insulation of wiring. The chaps at Model Railroader has trouble on their layout and had to use drinking straw conduits to protect it.
Now that is interesting ! I have been using polystyrene foam for years on my layouts, but not as a track substrate. Is it then worth painting the polystyrene or like you say, use drinking straws as an insulator for dropper wires ?? Would PVA then act as a good insulator between the wiring and the foam, or perhaps a coat of thick imulsion (paint) dribbled down..?? Cheers, Gary.
Reidy wrote: Not sure it apply's to all types of foam may be related to the make up of the foam after all it is a petrochemical based product, one of our O scale layouts was built on a extruded foam base about 15+ years ago and has all the wireing embedded through the foam and we have not seen any signs of any effect on the insulation and when we did some upgrades a couple of years ago several parts were redone and the wiring was all reused as was in as good condition as when first installed. Reidy I have been using the high density foam from Bunnings for 3-4 years and I just whent out and check a test peice I did when first purchased and there is no effect on the 2 wires that where passed through it for the track power. Jaycar Wire used. May also be related to the wirings insulation, also a petrochemical based product in most cases, reacting together with the foam. Some more research may be required on the compatabilitys, however I think the Knurf Foam from Bunnings is a fairly stable product with the current use of the product in Australia being very high with modellers I think we would have heard something by now if it had an issue, but worth looking into the issue that Norwest bend noted.
Hi Reidy,I would want to know what type of Poly foam they used before I worried about the wiring also where was the cable made,as I said earlier I have used the HD Poly foam ( made here in Aus) for at least 10-12 years with no problems,i have had many problems with china made cable for security camera installs,some lasting less than 12 months....pete
Not at all mate. Always worth bringing something up if it can save someone some pain. Especially as I'm known for learning things the hard way! Reidy
Norwest Bend wrote: Norwest it's a valid point and may be an issue in the wrong combo of materials. Also as 6009 said some cheaper cable may be an issue with unstable insulation material that may speed up the degrading of the insulation when installed in another poly product The fact that they could put in a drinking straw also a plastic poly based material and it was ok, seems to go with 6009 theory of the cheap unstable insulation as the issue with the model railroader project. Worth taking note of though. As an aside to this as a full subscriber to MR I will try and find out from the archives when and what materials were used. A quick check of some of there more current project layouts shows that they often use a similar HD foam to what we get here in OZ with no mention of protecting the wires, even on the how to video's on MR plus by David Popp. See this is what forums are all about bouncing ideas about.